Andrew McEwan

Can you post up some photos and dimensions, will allow a bit of discussion on options.

Poplar hornet moth that has decided to try something new?

I like mine, they seem a fairly safe bet, better with the non folding hopper I think

Surely that should be on the ancient tree inventory, not to mention full of defects re.milling

william127 is the guy for hyundai mini chipper info

Have you had a try of the rcw3001 Drew? Any thoughts? Hope all is well down south

No problem, hope it goes well

A pair of 5ton rachet straps work well for pretensioning, or a little hand rachet winch mid tensioning line if the tree is larger. A spare friction hitch to put on the end of your bracing line so it can follow you about the tree is helpful, as are the usual tools on bits of cord, chunky scissors, insulation tape etc, and a little plywood bosuns chair/swing seat if you're going to be in a awkward spot for a bit (or like me are getting soft).

Bad news Ken, did the stud just spin when having the bar off or did it fail when cutting?

Are you going to get one to try Steve? handy for clearing around trees prior to a decay detection job!

Mostly 270cm in various silkys since 98 ish, good size I think. 2511 is brilliant isn't it.

Hi Patrick The ISA guide to tree support systems is a good reference, but mainly about steel cabling. Without opening a large can of worms, briefly I think parts of BS3998 are due updating, particularly pruning with bracing and tensioning, but I don't know of any new material out there, it'd be a good topic for the AA to cover in a new guide, and also then apply some pressure to the get the 'shoulds' removed from 3998. If Kevin Moore is running any bracing courses he is well worth listening to on the subject, but you will find equally valid and very different approaches and thoughts on materials from Rob Knott (Nod at treeworker) and others. Probably like a lot of arb it is down to experience and educated guess work, and well due some long term studies on the synthetic systems, but even with them (when someone does them!) as a foundation there are so many variables to think about.

Has the bracing been recommended following a survey? If so the report should have been written to give you a detailed spec, what the brace is to achieve, position of brace, material type, material mbs etc, but you often see 'brace the tree' which isn't much help. If you haven't been given a useful spec it may be worth getting some experienced help in, as it's really easy to get the hang of the splicing part of it, then hang something in a tree that isn't very useful, and there are lots of factors to consider, suspension or support system? preload or not? bracing pattern? and thinking about the pros and cons of different systems and attachments. Assuming you are thinking of using synthetic cabling (don't rule out rods or steel cable being better for the right spec), but suggest you leave boa and cobra alone as there are much easier (and better value) to use products available now, speak to Rob at Treeworker for materials.

Same to you Steve, always a pleasure using the spudded fleet

Treeworker will sort out materials you need as Steve says, I've just spliced a continuous loop of their flat braid around close forks in the past.

Steve will be along to give the list, but big gains are possible (~ +30% cut speed) on husky 3 series, very happy with my spudded 350, 357 and 372. I think 200t and 201t are popular but don't have one.

A big +1 for getting a good synthetic cable brace in there.

Can you get some needle samples? It could be red band needle blight, but odd to see only that limb cluster affected or if you are still thinking PPC then get a sample in to the fc and register it via tree alert app.

Hi Joe, It can be done on a single line, have a read through what I posted earlier, shout if any questions. Cheers Andrew

Two lines are obviously much better but if you want a 'single line transfer to your line method' this works well, but only on shorter srt set ups, hitch hiker, rig, tazlov2 etc, but may be useful if you set it well and have long arms with a wrench, or ascend via wrench and then switch to a fig 8 to rescue 1. Shorten bridge if possible 2. Extend bridge with short sling with overhand knot at two thirds of it's length 3. Clip friction device across knot so you have the short tail of the sling hanging free, but so you can still control descent and neck tether etc still works for ascent 4. Attach casualty to tail of sling, (if set up well they will hang across you lap, or inbetween your legs if you knot sling at mid point) and harness to harness with quickdraw, transfer weight and release their system, then depending on device you may need to add friction, and descend. Although weight limits given on devices above mean they're not rated for two, I've found no issues with function or needing extra friction with 2x~80kg men, at your own risk of course if you want to try it.

They are great for the jobs you describe, unless deep brash as not much clearance. You need front wheel weights if skidding anything large, and ideally reverse steer, and you're right about having a rotator on the grapple, much more versatile, and with correct geometry you can build a basic stack, I also have a drop down blade on mine for tidying up and shunting large lumps which has been invaluable. I don't think you'd enjoy any length of time on an alpine though! Shorter mans machine.

Try the filing stone attachments for a dremel and maybe just use up some cheaper or old chain on it.

If you get one I'd buy an over run pto for it or your alpines gearbox may not thank you, but looking at the narrow hopper and single feed roller suspect you might not keep it long if you have to go anywhere near any thorn.

Have a google for RAD setup, add a micro pulley or krab with pulley to the ascender to make it smoother, and clip the tail to you before you head out on the limb. I'd say it makes a mini floating 2:1 system.

Have been impressed with my TP175 pto, rapid and well put together, easy blade change.