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  1. I guess tree age and vigour need to be taken into account also
  2. 1. Locate the most recent "pollarding" / pruning points 2. Remove all the regrowth back down to the most recent pruning points 3. Dont worry about leaving lots of foliage on as poplar has huge capacity to regenerate 4. Try hard not to scream/shout/swear/lose the will to live too much as looks like theres a sh$t load of ivy on those stems!
  3. A long crown reduction film is boring. (wasnt suggesting that, just include a coupe of before and afters or time lapses to give a well rounded profile of the treework portfolio)..but then a long video of a one tree takedown doesnt hold my attention for very long - as there are so many out there now!
  4. Proper sweet vid! One of the best I have seen and looks like you have a slick operation there! Would have been nice to see also see a decent crown reduction/pruning job in there too and mainly seemed tobe takedowns
  5. Ok, yeah that changes things! Id say italian alder
  6. The leaves are pointed at the tips, there are quite blunt at tips on whitebeam. Id also say its bird cherry
  7. Winter - pros - less to clear up (no leaves), less damaging to wildlife, lower moisture content in wood so lighter to handle, less moisture loss through big wounds (in my experience the success rate of pollarding/coppicing is better when winter cut as summer cuts can add extra stress through heat and drought stress), new growth has more time to harden up for the follwing winter, perfect working conditions i.e - frosty, cool sunny days ideal for chainsawing in. Cons - Tree can't start to compartmentalise in dormant season so pathogen attack is greater, more fungal sopres around in winter so more chance of pathogen attack, access to woods can be be harder and possibly more ride damage in winter in boggy ground, extraction may have til wait to summer months until ride conditions improve. Summer - opposite to above.
  8. I think this is the best advice so far
  9. Is the retaining wall dug into the soil? If so how deep? Majority of tree roots in the top 600mm of soil profile where conditions are favorable.
  10. Wouldnt consider a crown reduction then Paul?
  11. Have to agree, having been the "climber" and "groundsman" on such 2 manteam jobs I wouldnt persoanlly opt for that approach as I think it is ineffcient and puts extra wear and tear on your climber if they have to cut and chuck everything, and takes much longer when a smooth rigging operation with a couple of groundies would speed the job up no end.
  12. That seems like quite bump up from 2 man to 3 man - £500 for an extra person. A very healthy mark up! Nice!
  13. I would just move on if you feel you there taking the piss, Its not upto the client to tell you how long a job will or should take. Find decent customers who respect you and value you, you soon learn to weed out the ones quickly who dont and when alarm bells start ringing!
  14. I never charge on an hourly rate (rarely works in your favour with treework imo)....either day rate of minimum of £200 or price the job on a fixed price. Also, be clear with your day rate times of starting and finishing, (I aim for 8.30-4.30pm) on half days I also charge a bit extra on top of half my day rate to make it worth my while.


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