tree-fancier123
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Everything posted by tree-fancier123
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thanks
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decent looking specimen - should you be able to id it just from the shape?
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Throw line and throw weights and techniques
tree-fancier123 replied to Adam Bourne's topic in Climbers talk
so the cube doesnt fly up in the air when using the big shot -
no need for a rope to descend! yes, lucky to be alive, expect a google search would reveal quite a few deaths in the news from hornet stings http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/world-news/man-killed-horrific-hornet-attack-6783940 sorry about linking The Mirror
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New to the arb industry - looking for advice
tree-fancier123 replied to Phil_G's topic in Training & education
Well I initially did what Steven Blair suggests - only did tickets after a customer asked me 'Do you have any qualifications as a tree surgeon?' I'd previously been mowing her lawns and it was a huge willow, guess she thought i could be trying to blag it. I read Jeff Jepson's books before buying my kit - if you don't do a course or read books you are trying to reinvent the wheel. utube videos can be instructional, but knowing a bit about trees, not just how to cut them, worth the small investment in a few books, eg Trees - Their Natural History and Bob Watson's Trees ... -
New to the arb industry - looking for advice
tree-fancier123 replied to Phil_G's topic in Training & education
if you do go for it - be aware it really can be dangerous - local climber seriously injured when a big leaning stem split while he was tied in to it - a bore cut may have helped, but everything looks clear in the rear view mirror -
ever tried following a workshop service manual? - fixed a few petrol machines Stihl, Honda etc, from reading the service manual, clear instructions for all systems on the machine
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i had another customer 'groundy' the other day, was going to come back the next day for a morning to clear up, but he did most of it , 78 and still going strong. My exit strategy is a pipe dream one - to find good investments in the stock market and hold them for years - missed Amazon, Apple, and the oil boom, got a few mining shares, some generic pharma and EDF, roll on Hinkley point C
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wow - reminds of the film The Wicker Man
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Austria starts a burka ban (about time too) http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2017/10/01/austrias-burka-ban-comes-force-prohibiting-face-veils-public/ it occurred to me if there was another holocaust, rather than gas chambers and cremations it would be more expedient to mulch with a tractor, we got to hope for the best tho, be tolerant and do no harm
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lol - a curvy womans best side and a singing dog, no one seems interested in discussing the rape and murder news items
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Trousers 'n' boots, lightest, comfiest please..
tree-fancier123 replied to didymus's topic in General chat
BigtreeDon said something about Pfanner boots a while back - I looked it up and he'd apparently spent in the region of £300. I guess even up to £1000 a year on clothing is worth it if you're out in all weathers - could be another 20 days pay to had -
i bet the chippers weren't Bandit or Schliesling - I'm still mashing in the back of my tipper, but think if i had storage for a machine I would rather do 10k on a pre loved Shliesling e.g 480 Ex , or 150 Bandit and then 10k on repairs than a brand spanker for 20 - appreciate finance comes into it though The Schliesing 480EX and Bandit 150 are my two favourites for a wheeled chipper - a decent tracked machine would be out of my range without finance, although the Jensen A340T looks worth repairing. I can mash quite a big broadleaf with the saw and get it away in one or two. If I was fully invested in arb it would be as a conny basher. Take a tractor up to it with a TP250. Sorry another pointless post, easy spending other peoples money Dream chipper http://www.globalrecycling.eu/equipment/schliesing-480mx-2/
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Brilliant - no way my throwing would be quicker than that, and if the line gets stuck and the spare line comes out, could be 1/2 hour before I'm in the tree thanks for posting, wish I'd got the AUS over the Jameson now, yours look like they'd be less wobbly
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to the op - whatever rate you manage to get - don't just fritter all the cash, you've had to give up part of your life to earn it and you'll never get that time back - go stringent and make your money work for you
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will have to try that - must be handy when there's loads of epi or ivy, and if i'm on my own, no need to worry about ladders in the way what is the technique? save me months or years
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a bit unsightly maybe, but a ratchet strap above the top bit of wood - leave the wood on to stop the ratchet strap slipping, got to be cheaper than a pro job and would be nearly as strong as stud bar in a gale if a big enough strap was used
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Some of the yellow Jameson are foam filled and insulated https://www.abbeypro.co.uk/tree-pruning/pole-saws/showitem-WW-FG.aspx you can get an insulator for the pulley cord too - useful on a wet day I guess, but I haven't felt the need to test it near the pylons the branch lifter hook thing is really good - used it to catch stuff on a thorn hedge reduction, handy to pull stuff across if you dont want to collect from next door i had two six foot and two four foot poles together and cleared some oak away from an lv house supply - it was good to be trimming the tree at twenty foot without leaving the ground, double pulley pruner, there must be a record for the highest tree successfully rod pruned in utility work - 35ft my guess
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groundy rates should be based on regional house prices - so in Birmingham you won't need as much as Guildford. Save up and move to Burnley and buy a mansion. A groundie in Bulgaria where a house can be had for £10k should be on no more than £40 a day. The London groundie needs £250 a day to save for a deposit on a broom cupboard
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I had a honda that wouldnt start even after spraying easystart - had to dismantle the carb and blow out, as per downloaded service manual - maybe see if there is a cheap new carb on ebay, perhaps you can google up a Briggs service manual pdf
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agree - the biggest battery for the MSA160T is a lump and it does get bogged down in bar length hard wood - the electric replacement for a 90cc saw would need an extension lead and genny- or a mini nuclear reactor where the cylinder was
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oh yes there is - you are just wrong on this, and sometimes it is hard to admit that you were wrong - i had an LM125 Ifor that I hadn't put down properly onto the ball hitch - it came off and the break away cable put the brakes on, just like if the handbrake were applied, no damage done as it stopped, otherwise would have freewheeled into parked cars
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so even with the most rotten trees that have to be dismantled rather than dropped, some climbers will look at it and think ' well if it's got the strength to hold several ton of its own wood up there another 80 or 100kg aint going to crumble it'' I suppose its no more dangerous than hand to hand combat
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the idea of spraying the whole hedge with a knapsack and glyphosate seems sensible - if it was in the spring or summer the idea of cutting to near ground first and then spraying would have been ideal, may not sprout much now into sept. I would say 2 to 3 weeks after spraying all the leaf area has a good chance of wiping it out - i use a commercial wetting agent (adjuvant) from ag supplier (not just fairy liquid) and sometimes add 2,4D (depitox ) etc to the glyphosate for difficult stuff. ... if you do try spraying the whole hedge off 2 to 3 weeks before cutting down it would need to be soon - i guess abscission leaf fall is going to start with them soon so the poison may not be as effective - spraying the whole hedge use tarps maybe on a still day if you need to save grass
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over the roof this is what i imagined - so is it best to chance it and not open up a wound near the trunk ( pruning cut)? i cut the hedges and grass, so am there often - i pointed out dead wood in a couple of trees, she said do it - and now i'm hesitating on this one bit for the reasons described - if i cut it at the collar and the wound leads to trunk decay im a wrongun and if i leave the branch and it smashes the roof she'll say why didn't you take it off? At least the trunk decay would take years i guess. Large pruning wounds on oak seem to take twenty years or more to occlude, and some look like they never will. I guess worst case the house insurance would cover the roof, but preventative dead wooding seems worthwhile - if not doing further harm - ie going to rot the tree wasn't planning to fell it!
