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tree-fancier123

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Everything posted by tree-fancier123

  1. ok - interesting they were doing other ag engineering before chippers, wasn't trying to knock the company, jus playin. It was a silly attention seeking comment to make and I'm sorry.
  2. SAE Bell Housings Made Easy! | Foley Engines
  3. nice recon Perkins to go with it Perkins 4236 Recon Engine Jcb Fork Lift Massey Ferguson Tractor Dodge Boat | eBay this is how Greenmech started, just buying bits and bobs, then slapping it together
  4. that is quite scary, that a small set up could damage someone's house or car, thinking the insurance will cover them, and during the claim the insurers ask to see loler certs for the lowering ropes £90 is a lot of money though
  5. it's in the same category as having a worker to run the ropes and clear up who doesn't have climbing tickets, just don't do it, unless you want to as the lombardy fell incident proved , all the acreditations, lolers, tickets etc won't always guarantee a trouble free time
  6. wish I could get a nice shape like that acer, can't call mine crown reductions yet - just trimming for now. Just right weather for tree work this week, can't stand the summer heat. The customer wanted the two smaller stems right out - I did say the more big cuts the more chance of fungal spores taking hold. I have seen a huge beech in the woods with a two foot stem torn out in the gales massive tear out wound and still going strong.
  7. if your rope is less than double tree height and you come down from near top - tie a stopper knot in the tail end so you don't descend off into mid air. Make sure not to descend too fast on a rope prussik you will burn it out. And keep an eye on the rope below you - if your nearing the end and still some way off the ground find a convenient place to stop so you can stand on a branch, secure with lanyard, then re anchor your rope over a lower branch and continue down. Minimum size for an anchor point is supposed to be wrist thickness at the top - be warned though trees are organic and it is not risk free at all - a climber on these boards failed his assessment because his anchor point broke! If you learn on some smaller oaks first it will help - metal figure 8 device can be used to abseil down cheap and saves burning your prussik loops - these prussiks should be 10mm dia approx for a 13mm climbing line
  8. figure 8 stopper knot in the tail end
  9. this rope if you're serious about having a go - dont forget to read the book too its not long Yale XTC Plus 25m 13mm Climbing Rope 1 Splice Tree Surgeons | eBay book THE TREE CLIMBER'S COMPANION ARBORIST GUIDE TECH BOOK | eBay you must have a lanyard to remain attached when you are advancing your climbing line - or a net below
  10. it doesn't say the rope is partially severed in the listing it only says retired, i just meant to run it through his hands end to end to check its not nicked, sorry should have spelled that out. Before i did any courses i went up 70 80 foot oaks in the woods - i did spend a few quid more on gear than he is intending and also read Jeff Jepsons tree climbers companion - to the original poster - get this book its only 12 quid. Seriously dont ever try up a dead tree, and if you can afford to invest in a 13mm arborist rope e.g 25m Yale XTC plus all the better
  11. here's some rope - probably wouldnt break if its not nicked (partially severed) seller just covering themselves Retired Indoor Climbing Rope 10.5mm | eBay this is an 8mm prussik loop MARLOW VIPER PRUSSIK LOOP 50-60-70CM - heat resistant | eBay you could just use a short length of the rope as a non adjustable lanyard for when you reach a branch to change over and throw your main rope (with carabiner on end) above to the next branch. death or glory
  12. so you made a mistake as a jest, feigned ignorance, wish I hadn't posted my comment now Sugoi 360, like the thrift element, sharpens up ok
  13. I thought it was Gomtaro? No?
  14. sounds like you only just made it there! a barber chair on spikes doesn't bear thinking about - was it a leaner? could you have used a bore cut? what are things to look out for that may not be obvious? How would you do the same job next time around? - don't say sub it out
  15. yes - I realize simply firing the bigshot over the top (or out through the top) of a congested crown, pulling the line up then just snapping out the twigs with a quick bounce and ascending will never be 'best practice' - 12 feet fall wouldn't do climber or gear much good.
  16. I heard tale of an accident involving a high anchor point put in with a big shot - apparently the anchor point broke and the climber fell - it was someone on a training course talking about this, not heard any other incidents like this, but binoculars don't seem silly if going for a high branch. And bounce test with two people - although it could break a perfectly good anchor point? Personally I like the idea of a base tie over the top of the whole tree - if some of the twiggy bits break there's plenty more left.
  17. I don't know the technical answers to your rope questions, but if you buy Yale XTC, DMM ovals and a hitch climber you will be fine, unless you saw through the rope, or the bit you are tied into is dead and breaks off
  18. I've had same with bit of casing under top handle coming adrift, will have a go with duct tape. Was well pleased to save the £200. For me it's always dealing with the waste that takes too long, not cutting wood. If I was sawing 10" oak all week long maybe my 200T would come out of the museum.
  19. ideal with the digger in tow, cleaning up after storms a speciality
  20. there's a big horsechestnut about 5 metres away from my place, roots into the joins in clay drain pipes is a problem. It's not horrendous though, the drain pipes can be replaced with plastic which is much less susceptible to roots. 10 metres away sounds like it would be a lot less bother. You can google tree consultants 'your area' to get quotes to do full report. Ideally someone with a level 6 diploma in arboriculture. I gather people do inspect trees with the lower level 4, but my impression is those with level 6 are worth seeking out for their more in depth knowledge
  21. this would do - chipper on front, trailer behind
  22. If you're PAYE on the books why go flat out ultra efficient like a permanent military exercise? I mean if he's paying the foreman say 28k, if the foreman really pulls out all the stops and tries to bust a gut to get it done ultra efficient is he suddenly going up from 28k to 36? It's a long road to retirement - sometimes better to do just enough and not develop high blood pressure. Why can't it be - nice day - exciting climb - great surroundings, rather than yay we're the best organized most energetic fastest team going
  23. [ame=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEQzaS4CnL8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEQzaS4CnL8[/ame]
  24. it would be good if your tracked grinder could have a tow hitch on and help move it about, maybe it's not a big enough grinder for that I've spent a while browsing the various options - a Greenmech safetrack is a nice chipper - or the wheeled version 19-28, seems a bit beefier than a Jenson 540 Although if you got a tracked machine on a trailer towing behind a transit you can soon get up to the towing allowance, safetrack probably pushing the limit, Jensen about 400kg lighter. A bandit 90 is around 2ton too I believe.

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