tree-fancier123

'It has a typical lifespan of 150 to 200 years, though sometimes up to 300 years' If they went in 270 years ago is it the original trees all along, or have they been planting along it to make it last longer?

i think it would be good if you could buy a kit or have a conversion to utilize the hp of the arbtruck for a pto chipper, so my transit could have maybe 90hp for a pto chipper

surely with an 18 ton crane lorry you could build a little compartment (with a lid on) to crane the chipper into and still have enough room for timber and/or chip ?

I know this will have been done to death elsewhere on the forum, but the recent Id request posted with armillaria replies made me realize I still don't know if I see it on a stump, or even a live tree in a garden, does the mere presence of honey fungus in a location mean it will spread to healthy trees? I have before read about burning infected tree remains, or taking them to the dump, say if an armillaria tree is felled in a garden with other trees. I realise some of the stuff on this will have been written years ago and may be perfectly valid, but what's the latest in the books and journals on armilaria cross infection?

that must be the most practical solution, some would think they look more stylish and successful taking the family out in a nice 4by4, but the tipper would make money, maybe get it sprayed metallic grey if you wanted to fester yourself up about aesthetics

this is a link discussing the options I was asking about, interested what peoples preferences are and why Tying Off For SRT Limb cinch with throwline pull-down Either of the previous two tie-offs will be more effective if pull-down capability is added to the system before climbing. This will eliminate the mandatory necessity of climbing all the way to the top in order to be able to retrieve the rope from the setting, and will facilitate recovery of the rope at climb's end. Simply tie a length of strong line (or even another rope) to the loop in the running bowline, or to the delta, before hauling the cinch all the way to the top of the tree. This way, in case the climber should so wish, the cinch, and the rope, can be retrieved by simply pulling down on the line and bringing the cinch back to the ground. The upside to this is obvious. The climber can now retrieve a rope without necessarily having to ascend to the anchoring limb to do so. The downside is that there are now things that can go wrong. If the string/line being used for the pull-down is not strong enough, it might break before bringing the cinch to the ground. There is a further issue with the potential to get tangled in the pull-down line while climbing. Serious line management is necessary here! Mid-line limb cinch with rope pull down If your rope is long enough, a mid-line cinch can be created. For this one, a delta (or similar item) becomes a serious necessity. Do everything as before up until the point when the rope passes over the anchor limb. Then tie a F8OAB (or anchor hitch, or any other nice mid-line knot) in the rope at your side. Insert delta into the loop created, insert rope into delta, and continue hauling until the limb is cinched. If there was enough rope the climber should now have a cinch in place in the tree and both ends of the rope on the ground. The rope itself will function as the pull-down. The upside is that the rope itself functions as the pull-down and no extra string or line is necessary. The downside is that you need a rope that is twice the length of the height of the setting in order to have both ends on the ground. Limb cinch on continuous loop First, pull your rope up, over the limb, and back to the ground. You will need a rope twice the length of the height to your setting. Once you have both ends on the ground, tie the two ends together to create an endless loop (I usually use a figure eight follow through, or re-threaded figure eight, whichever you choose to call it). Then a F8OAB in the rope on either side of the knot at least a couple of feet away from the connection knot. Insert delta in the loop of the F8OAB, insert rope from the other side of the setting and haul the cinch right on up to the limb. This is my favorite way to do a limb cinch when I have enough rope, because now both ends of my rope are at the top and I don't have to haul an end up with me to advance the climb. Once I have climbed up to the cinch I simply separate the two ends of the rope and use the end not involved in the cinch to create a new DRT setting for advancing the climb. Once the new setting has been created and I have transferred my weight to it, I can de-rig the cinch, pull the rope off the limb and continue the climb, using both ends of the rope. If I don't ever reach the top of my entry pitch, for whatever reason, there's no problem because I have a convenient pull-down ready to go. The only downside is that it takes more rope than a simple cinch with delta or bowline. Take care always to make sure that you are climbing on the side that has been cinched, rather than on the pull-down side!

if you use a pulley and crab in preference to the maillon what is the advantage? if the rope is long enough do people tie the butterfly for top anchor about half way along, so the tail is within reach, or on the ground for retrieval, or do some prefer attaching a throwline to a short tail on a top anchor for retrieval - merits of each method?

I cut one only about 3" diameter stem to the ground, as customer said it was too close to another tree. It put on about 6ft the year after. Maybe a mature specimen wouldn't have so much go in it.

that saw shouldn't be used in anger, probably a valuable collectors item

Thanks. In terms of biomass weight ivy must be one of the most successful plants, bloody litter.

trouble with some 'good' red wine it's so dear it might give you a heart attack having to do enough work to be able to buy it

one place I work used to be owned by a botanist who planted one of those not long after the seeds became available, probably about 20" dbh now, nice tree, only thing is getting ivy on. What do you reckon about ivy on nice specimen trees - if the money was there would you offer to cut it off, at least around the trunk in a band and let the top fall off?

selection at treeworker http://www.treeworker.co.uk/catalog/index.php?CG_ID=36&CS_ID=39&CSS_ID=0 the green grip gloves wear out quick but good for hand over hand read good things about Towa

I know good rope isn't cheap and a long rope heavy to carry, but leaving a long enough tail on a top anchor to pull it out from the ground is my first thought. After all doing the tree with a lowerable base anchor would need loads of rope or a knot and another rope. I guess the force thing makes a top anchor more doable on smaller diameters, with a base anchor doubling the force on the anchor point.

glad I saw this thread - had no idea, could be dodgy on a still day, maybe wait till there is a breeze to do it . 'Before the demonstration, pass a pot of the leaves around the class and ask the students if they recognise the smell. Hopefully, someone will mention almonds or marzipan which is the characteristic odour of the HCN. Show the students the toxic hazard symbol, emphasising that HCN is toxic and in a confined space, where higher concentrations can accumulate, it can be lethal. Finally, carefully lift the lid of the jar containing the insect and add a few crushed leaves. Replace the lid and put the pot on a table in view of the class, or use a webcam and projector for larger classes. Watch as the insect rapidly dies in ca 1 minute. '

I've had one for about 4 years, always been good, I drain tank and run it till carb empty if not using it for a while. Quite gutsy, mine on 18" bar, probably fine on a 24". Unless you cut big trees often probably don't need the 661

well when I used to cut Leyland Cypress off my ladder I was the cowboy - remember doing a whole line like that and feeling chuffed when I went home with £120 for a day leaving tops on site

thanks http://http://www.bali.org.uk/news_events/news/673/gardener-must-pay-6000-after-neighbour-catches-him-perched-on-treetop-while-holding-a-chainsaw

thread reminds me of this poor soul from a while back http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2179307/Barking-Gardener-fined-6-000-neighbour-snapped-perched-treetop-holding-chainsaw.html - I used to top conifers this way before I splashed out on climbing gear. I don't like chainsaw trousers and the main reason I wear them on occaision is busy body neighbours like the greedy tool who shopped this bloke, 'I'm an assessor, better do the right thing and tell the HSE' nothing to do with him and his job of being well paid for not doing much, just bullying people into being funneled into the lucrative assessment system

yeah or a woman with beautiful long hair goes to the hairdresser requesting a skinhead to save on shampoo and they won't do it out of principle

of course there is - '87 was the last one I know of that took out a real big number - chainsaws can be felling and pruning as long as there is enough petrol

Some older specimens will have a TPO, but if not, then what I'm getting at is yes many grand old trees in gardens will have been killed by 'pruning' works, but compared to the amount of trees lost to make way for new housing estates and other development the environmental impact is low If you buy a field somewhere and leave it, ten years later will be loads of oak etc that the birds have put in there - a lady near me did it and twenty years later she has loads of oaks - if someone else bought the land and concreted it with 50 houses the oaks etc would not have grown.

All the nice green fields being built on these days, loss of trees at the edges and hedgerows, that seems more of a problem than what people do to their existing garden trees

those machines don't like to be left for months with fuel in, diaphragms maybe easy start squirted in the air filter has often got stuff to fire

thanks for the reply, thought there must be plenty of trees that have had them for years, will try to remember about willow and horse chestnut if I come across any in them