tree-fancier123
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Everything posted by tree-fancier123
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Looking at how the RCW 3001 is constructed one solution could be to use a separate Harken or other good self tailing winch e.g Lewmar on a separate strap above, or below? the bollard with 20 feet of rope separate from the rigging line with a rope grab on the end, maybe a bit of extra clutter but cheaper than the purpose built LD2 by 50%
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Thanks Nigel, 2 things I think are not optimum about the Stein RCW-3001 are that the friction hitch removal after tensioning must add a few seconds compared to a rope grab type system and secondly the winch unit itself looks inferior to the Harken on GRCS. Other than that I have to say as a complete system for £750 or so it is a great buy for someone like me just starting out. Spending £2600 on a Smart winch LD2 would mean less for big chipper or Sunday roast, whatever
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I'm after any thoughts regarding using a separate winch (harken type) strapped on the tree above a separate bollard for tensioning the line prior to cutting, as Hobbs, GRCS etc. In the Stein RCW3001 thread Clearview trees has posted a picture of the set up.http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/rigging-roping/78774-new-rcw-3001-stein-3.html What I want to know is - if the separate winch is used to tension the rigging line what method(s) would enable that tension to then be transferred to the bollard to avoid shock loading the winch? I understand the smartwinch LD2 LD2 Rigging-System has a rope grab, so the winch can be swapped for the bollard under tension, to avoid shock loading the winch when cutting huge lumps. The LD2 product solves my query, but at £2200 + vat. A separate winch and bollard can be had for about £1000. But how to fabricate or improvise a rope grab to transfer the tension?
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Agree - my mum knows someone doing time for causing fatal crash - investigation found they were texting at exact time. I got a nice big sliding mitre saw, easily take your hand off, so why not do a week's course at least before being allowed to plug it in?
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How many boards could the Mongols hoard before the Mongol horde got bored?
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Lovely song and ropework looked good fun - someone who couldn't afford a mewp could also learn scaffolding - l bet a skilled person could get some rig up 60ft in a couple hours
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not married! can see what I'm missing out on though, never mind. handy thing for a long ascent. so is there a way of tensioning with a winch separate from a bollard and then transferring the tension to the bollard to avoid shock loading the winch? I mean not like smartwinch or GRCS, but either a petrol winch or a separate harken etc straped on above a bollard?
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he was very skilled in cutting the tree down, why is he compelled to listen to that crap?
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bet he didn't learn that lot overnight a portable petrol winch shown at about 5 minutes? Is the rigging line tensioned with that and then taken off, or stuff just dropped with tension on it?
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As much as the market can bear.
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It's only 20% of anything over the allowance £10k, not saying that 70 a day net is alright though National average wage 26k so they say, wrong having to compete for housing with super remunerated types, bring back Stalin
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Clearview trees has a good solution posted on the Stein RCW3001 thread, he's got a bollard strapped on and a separate winch £600 straped on above - only thing is if you use the winch to tension how can you transfer the tension to the bollard below to avoid shock loading the winch?
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I've been looking at those too, not got rigging ticket yet, but trying to suss it out. If you have a bollard Stein RC3000 etc, can you not just get a tirfor on the tree below the bollard and use an ascender, (maybe a hitch is time consuming)?
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Too big to fell, too small to climb
tree-fancier123 replied to Shipwrecked Bones's topic in Climbers talk
And if you ever find yourself driving over 30 in a 30, head for the nearest police station and report yourself -
Too big to fell, too small to climb
tree-fancier123 replied to Shipwrecked Bones's topic in Climbers talk
An aluminium tripod ladder is handy for that sort of thing, mine is 12'. I would have had a 16' one, but a bit more cumbersome to transport. You do have to buy some stuff to do the work - or you could make your next harness from a couple of webbing slings. -
If a reasonable size ad is £25ish in your local paper, just try that maybe they'll do a deal if you block book a few weeks in a row. One or two calls a week soon builds up, if the first ones start asking you back. Don't cut and move heavy trees in August heat unless you are poor.
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Throw line and throw weights and techniques
tree-fancier123 replied to Adam Bourne's topic in Climbers talk
like it, no messing about -
if its not too wide maybe the steel loading ramps from a big Ifor plant trailer would do
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wow - one of the best vids I've seen on here. Bit of rope and ingenuity and it's doable without a second mortgage. Are many trees like that with a decayed trunk but top branches looking good? There was a thread a while ago about a climber bottling a big lime with a root plate lifting up in the wind and a guy replied saying he was in Germany and his mates were asked to spike a tree like one in vid, then he refused and someone else did it and half the tree tipped and broke up while he was lanyarded in, fubared his leg, no more climbing
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a bit of a run out of anything else to talk about thread, whether people communicate well or don't communicate at all isn't up to them - there's no such thing as free will, just nature doing it's thing and we are lucky enough to witness it for a short time how about some plans to build a 10" diesel chipper, or mini skid steer? Surely the components don't add up to £35k and £25k respectively.
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They are beautiful and look good, take ages to get old and too big, local garden centre had 18" high £25 5' £150. Money puzzle tree.
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is it with the different cam for wire? not had any trouble at all on rope
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Throw line and throw weights and techniques
tree-fancier123 replied to Adam Bourne's topic in Climbers talk
the falteimer double cube looks good, first line stuck, use second second line gets stuck too - give up and go home -
good info, thanks, wasn't thinking it was done slow on the day, looked efficient and well thought out. Also I guess trying to shave another 5 mins here and there you get to the point where you're taking uneccessary risks, end up off work with a pulled muscle or worse.
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so how is that done the quickest then? Can you take off the lower ones first on the way up so the top stuff doesn't get tangled as it drops? Or is it dependent on the saw change?
