tree-fancier123

the rootballs are at right angles to the ground, lifted clean out

Isle of Wight - be nice if they would.

Hi, 1) If I ring up the stems of newly windblown leland cypress (about 18" at base) how long should each ring be approx if I want to split by hand using a splitting wedge? 2) If customer can't find anyone to take the logs she is looking into skips for the big wood. I just gave her a price to cut up and only take away stuff less than 6" as I can just put it on trailer and go on weigh bridge at tip and pay the usual green waste tonnage, but their shredder only does 6" Anyone any good at estimating or have used skips for waste away? One guy the customer had round to price told her 30ton of wood. If he is near the mark and I take maybe 10 15 ton away as the branches, what I'm asking is roughly how many 12 yard skips for the big stuff (2 connifers at approx 60ft each)? The skip firm said they'd do the stems on green waste rate, but I guess I'd have to sort the two root balls into a mixed skip and try to beat off some of the soil to fill in the holes? What do people do with root balls if they dont want to price for a crane? Thanks for reading and any replies.

that was so quick, thanks everyone

Maybe lazy of me - could have read through every tree id book page by page, then asked here two years later if I still couldn't find it..

Hi, a gardening customer has the type of willow that makes spirally branches, he says people sometimes dry out the spirally branches and paint them for interior decorations in a vase, hope that is enough to id it. Also a mimosa. The mimosa is getting big and he wants it reduced in height and spread. A reduction cut on a branch back to just above any side branch, so that becomes the new leader is what I was thinking for most of it. On a mature mimosa (20+ yrs) would taking a whole limb out cause decay. I'm not up on all the technical bits of how each species compartmentalise decay. Is there a rule of thumb for mimosa, eg is a 50% reduction going to kill it? I know they say dont remove the branch collar, but if there isn't much of a colar is say a 10mm stub from the trunk about right? With the willow it has been previously pollarded, maybe not correct term, but new spirally growth cut back to 'knuckles' He has previously had it done in the winter nov/dec when bare - do willows suffer from being cut back when the sap is rising and can all new growths be cut back to the previous knuckles? (and what is the term for these knuckles?) thanks

impatient after no replies in the first hour I tried googling and looks like root kill is risky if trees right next to target are to be retained: per Chemical Control for Woody Plants, Stumps and Trees Root Grafts Sometimes the roots of different plants share vascular tissue through grafting. Root grafting occurs primarily within the same species, but may occur between plants within the same genus. This phenomenon can be of great importance. A herbicide can move (translocate) from a treated tree to an untreated desirable tree, killing or injuring it. Damage to desirable trees as a result of root grafting will occur from use of the following herbicides: amitrole, 2,4-D, dicamba, glyphosate, imazapyr, metsulfuron, picloram, and triclopyr. Flashback This term describes the passive loss of a herbicide from the roots of treated trees. Once the herbicide is released from one tree, it is available for uptake by another. The serious consequence of this is that a treated tree may release herbicide back into the environment, injuring other nearby trees and vegetation. This occurs with picloram, dicamba, and occasionally with 2,4-D.

Hi, first post on arbtalk, I do gardening and looking to get into treework. A customer has what I call a weed tree (excuse ignorance don't even know species) but one of those that self propagate in large gardens like sycamores and oaks do). Anyway I lopped off a couple of limbs of the offending tree back in April and it is now fighting back with vigorous epicormic shoots around the wounds. The owner says the whole tree can come out and I wanted to drill the cut stumps in a ring around the new wood (each stump 6" dia approx ) and pour a 1:4 glyphosate 360:water in the holes I make (with a spade bit) . I've killed off sycamores, budleas etc with this method before, but here there are two palms or what maybe one with co-domininant? trunks growing right next to the tree I want to kill. The owner wants to retain the palms, is there any danger of the glyphosate root kill in a tree next to it harming the palm?. I know glyphosate is supposed to be neutralized on contact with soil, but am not up on if the roots of neighbouring trees may transfer fluids between dissimilar specimens by contact. Perhaps completely felling the tree would be enough to stop the epicormic shoots, but if its anything like a sycamore, only chemicals seem to work. I don't think the owner wants to pay to grind it. Thanks for reading and any replies. Some really useful stuff on here. Just need a small fortune for my chainsaw certs. Seems to be more money in training people than actually doing the work. Those that can't do teach and all that. Perhaps I'm too cynical (and tight)