tree-fancier123

interesting about suggesting the TO take a look and a TPO being placed - I can imagine if a 'potential' customer wants to fell a really decent specimen tree, the contractor does have privileged information in that they know something the TO doesnt - a really nice unprotected tree is about to be cut down. The homeowners should get contractors to sign a confidentiality document ' I want a quote to get rid of this, but you mustn't mention my intentions to anyone at the council or anyone connected with them'.

this system looks good, not tried it myself (only due to the cost) - he makes SRT work positioning look easy with this rig https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUWM5IcDC5g like MattyF said above - he has two SRT systems on the go, a shorter rope for the redirects

a big shot, static rope, friction system (rope runner, bulldog bone, rope wrench with tether and e2e hitch cord, or ZZ RW combo), foot ascender plus HAAS knee ascender, neck tether to tend, or chest harness, lanyard over the shoulder. An investment of maybe £800 all in and you have something to save you spiking up huge ivy covered nightmare trees (that have to be section felled)

draping a line over the top of the whole thing with a big shot and bounce testing a base tie is crude but worked for me, can damage a few bits and bobs if its just a prune

thanks for replies guys - i wish i'd kept my mouth shut and stuck with his trees and hedges, said i could do it for £100 - thought a couple of sacks of mortar mix at a £10 tops, looks like if it needs two tubs I'll be doing the job for £30, or less if I use up a diamond wheel or whatever on the angle grinder, still be a learner job. never imagined to regrout a patio of say 25m2 would be so dear. Sounds like a pro quote would be over £200 if a tub only does 7.5m2, I wont walk now ive said a price, but seems like ive messed up badly, or actually I may try to wriggle out of it - havent been to do trees and hedges yet so may have to separate that part - discretion the better part of valor and all that

not done a whole patio before - this one is square slabs, nothing fancy how to rake, chisel or machine the old mortar out where it remains ( without chipping the slabs)? best method to repoint after cleaning up? there is a lot of missing pointing and weeds at the moment My initial thoughts are gently with a bolster to remove, possibly a battery cut off saw too? And what about just brushing dry mortar mix into the joins after cleaning? Or is it best with a tub of stuff or one of those oversize mastic guns thanks to anyone who does this work and tells me all their trade secrets

looking at his pics in today's job thread Ian Flatters is still using his Vermeer, carries about 50 sheets of ply around so as not to damage the lawn, those with hiab just lift the avants over the hedge or wall

both the two trees above and the big elm what a waste - brutality and greed - thats all the economy is, England looked much nicer in the days of horse and cart, although I'd probably have died of a stroke by now, as there were no blood pressure meds

the pull up bollards sound a good addition - although someone from up north I met during an ebay purchase had one at his yard - he said the gyp will use a petrol cut off saw on them - not sure of the ease of this operation, a bit worrying as they make battery cut off saws now too. So bollard out front, internal cage, blaster, thick motorbike chain connecting all handles together - take starter motor or similar off tracked chipper, how about a removable front section to the drawbar of a wheeled chipper, must be a way of engineering it so there is no ball hitch at night. Sometimes it is simply worth the effort and inconvenience to take saws indoors - Im sure I saw a photo from Big tree Don with all his Huskys in the hallway, sure I would rather have HT131 and long handled hedgecutters outside as they are cumbersome, but if your store is likely to get done over dont leave chainsaws in there, sort of defeats the object of having a store, but if it only contains bulk oil and a chipper minus the front part of drawbar or starter motor. If the drawbar mod not possible - how much time to get really good at mechanics so it can be jacked and a wheel hub removed each night, leave the wheel on floor but take the hub home, surely a battery impact wrench and normal torque wrench to refit, maybe a split pin or so, if the process was repeated each night with wheeled chippers the pit stop would be quick and soon the theives would have common hubs on their vans just in case

good vid - looks like it can help a lot on some branch walks

why no close up of the remaining leaves and buds? Didnt want to make it too easy

nasty about the rigging line and metal hooks, hadnt considered it, at least some e. g rock exotica transporter will lock firm if you remember each time:(

The OP Old Mill was advertising - probably a good bet, he wrote on here some time ago about a massive lombardy they did - sounds like they get some good climbs

wow - reminds me of Aspenarbs tagline - treementia - affecting those who keep felling the wrong trees so how did you smooth things out?

He's sure got some bottle - knocking those dogs in at the top with just his leg curled around the back of the ladder - what with the big MEWP right next to him filming he could have used.

'I'm dead. I'm dead' - poor bloke, and poor boss. Because of the extreme danger in aerial chainsaw use - it seems not beyond the realms of possibility that a big firm could insist on helmet cam footage of all jobs, if the climbers knew they were recording all their work they may be less likely to one hand near the body. The cost and a durable enough go pro not easy. the battery toppers maybe not so much kickback, not enough grunt for big wood, but timber out more likely done 'properly' anyhow, not cut and hold, although when the devil drives expect the worst, call the exorcist

the answer of no use to you would be to pay over the odds and accept less profit. Where do people look for staff? - here and earborist both have arb job sections. I expect experienced arborists its word of mouth, cant see many looking in the local rag for their next job advert. When I was in the shipyards blokes would always move around if another firm was offering a better hourly rate

interesting technique, sounds like a time and energy saver in the big trees

exactly if theyre caught in the yard set of burning gear to cut their vehicles up, the biological element - mulch

have you tried the bone? just wondering why people want two bits of hardware on the climb line instead of one. My BDB hasnt had much use as not got the staff for big trees, but it seem less faff than having a zz plus a tether plus a wrench, havent sold my wrench as his rig n wrench vids look sensible use for it also the BDB being midline attachable hasnt really helped me, although I expect there are times doing fancy stuff like with a traverse hook

he'd do better becoming a plasterer, f that though

Its worth having a zigzag in your bag for smaller trees dDrt, most people dont SRT with 13mm line anyway - too much bounce

6.5m of 8mm, cheaper than rope with ppe mark, probably same stuff

bring back the CB radio

for £630 ladders direct will send one that gets you up to 13.97 metres, or just short as it would be leaning http://www.laddersukdirect.co.uk/rope-operated-ladders/heavy-duty-rope-operated-extension-ladders--479.html need a set of binoculars to make sure its resting securely at the top