tree-fancier123

cool, thanks for the input guys, like the idea of the rigging hub, or even a large ring, handy if you haven't got 100m rope

nice diagram - I guess half a ton pulling sideways at the top of a tree is a fair amount of leverage at the rootplate, but obviously not too much or no one would use highlines. I can see now that pulling the two trees together with the tirfor on the highline may be a bit much, unless each tree was guyed at 180 to the highline, by which time it would be getting dark

thanks, pity about the overloading thing, was thinking about situations where there are neighbouring trees, but not much higher than the intended work position

I haven't yet set one up, but was wondering could it be tensioned with a smaller tirfor style winch using a bowline on a bight, or similar. I can of course go into the woods on a rec climb and just experiment, but am first asking for ideas about 1.sensible minimum thickness of stem at the fork, probably species dependent 2 how much sag there is, I know there are variables, say if the line was at 60' and trees 100' apart - climber in centre nearly on ground due to sag or suspended at 50'? 3 Using a small tirfor in the way described I was asking because obviously the line wants to be tight, but could tensioning it snap rope, tree top, or even start to lift the root plates. I guess the root plates and tree tops are more a consideration than the rope, if money were no object (apart from 80k for a tracked mewp) the rope could be tensioned using one of those load cell gadgets to keep tension way under the ropes SWL The people who have posted high line stuff don't seem to have any dramas, but just thought the tirfor idea may allow a bit extra tension. If I do have a go at setting one up 14mm sirius bull rope and a hitchclimber is all I have currently. I guess the 14mm rope can be pulled pretty tight if the trees can take it?

those pollards in Mick's original picture do have a charm about them, the knuckles are pleasing to look at.

not up on all that, heard about it with Aspen, will have a read

And a proposed list of street trees from Best Trees to Plant on Your Street and Sidewalk Acer campestre 'Queen Elizabeth' - Hedge Maple Hedge maple tolerates urban conditions with no serious pests or disease problems. Acer campestre also tolerates dry soil, compaction and air pollutants. The small stature and vigorous growth of hedge maple makes this an excellent street tree for residential areas, or perhaps in downtown urban sites. However, it grows a little too tall for planting beneath some power lines. It is also suitable as a patio or yard shade tree because it stays small and creates dense shade. • Carpinus betulus 'Fastigiata' - European Hornbeam The smooth, grey, rippling bark of Carpinus betulus shields the extremely hard, strong wood. Fastigiata European hornbeam, the most common hornbeam cultivar sold, grows 30 to 40 feet tall and 20 to 30 feet wide. A very densely-foliated, columnar or oval-shaped tree making it ideal for use as a hedge, screen, or windbreak. The European hornbeam is usually preferred over American hornbeam as it grows faster with a uniform shape. • Ginkgo biloba 'Princeton Sentry' - Princeton Sentry Maidenhair Tree Ginkgo or maidenhair tree thrives in a wide range of soils, tolerant of urban stresses, beautiful fall color. Only fruitless males should be selected. 'Princeton Sentry' is a narrow, columnar, male form excellent for street planting. This male cultivar of Ginkgo is practically pest-free, resistant to storm damage, and casts light shade due to the narrow crown. The tree is easily transplanted and has a vivid yellow fall color which is second to none in brilliance, even in the south. • Gleditsia tricanthos var. inermis 'Shademaster' - Thornless Honeylocust Shademaster is an excellent fast growing street tree with essentially no fruit, dark green leaves. Many horticulturists consider this to be one of the best cultivars of North America's honeylocust. Since Thornless Honeylocust is also one of the last trees to leaf out in springtime and one of the first to lose its leaves in fall, it is one of the few trees well-suited for growing a lawn beneath it. The tiny leaflets turn golden yellow in fall before dropping and are so small they easily vanish into the grass below, without any raking being necessary. • Pyrus calleyana 'Aristocrat' - Aristocrat Callery Pear The Aristocrat's superior structure compared to Pyrus calleyana 'Bradford' makes it less susceptible to wind breakage, also requires less pruning. Tolerates pollution and drought, abundant white blossoms appear in early spring. In spring before the new leaves unfold, the tree puts on a brilliant display of pure white flowers which, unfortunately, do not have a pleasant fragrance. Pyrus calleyana 'Aristocrat' - Aristocrat Callery Pear has been chosen "Urban Tree of the Year" as determined by responses to an annual survey in arborist magazine City Trees. This magazine serves as the official Journal to The Society of Municipal Arborists (SMA) and readers select a new tree each year. • Quercus macrocarpa - Bur Oak Bur Oak is a large, durable tree tolerant of urban stresses and also of poor soils, will adapt to acid or alkaline soil, suitable for parks, golf courses, and wherever adequate growing space is available. This beautiful but huge tree should only be planted with plenty of space. Quercus macrocarpa or Bur Oak has been chosen an "Urban Tree of the Year" as determined by responses to an annual survey in arborist magazine City Trees. This magazine serves as the official Journal to The Society of Municipal Arborists (SMA) and readers select a new tree each year. • Taxodium distichum 'Shawnee Brave' - Shawnee Brave Baldcypress Although baldcypress is native to wetlands along running streams, growth is often faster on moist, welldrained soil. 'Shawnee Brave' A tall, narrow form reaching 60 feet high and only 15 to 18 feet wide. Has excellent possibilities as a street tree. Baldcypress has been chosen "Urban Tree of the Year" as determined by responses to an annual survey in arborist magazine City Trees. This magazine serves as the official Journal to The Society of Municipal Arborists (SMA) and readers select a new tree each year. • Tilia Cordata - Littleleaf Linden Littleleaf linden is selected for its vigor and improved branching habit, tolerable of a wide range of soils but somewhat sensitive to drought and salt, good specimen tree and suitable for areas where adequate root space is available. Architects enjoy using the tree due to its predictably symmetrical shape. Littleleaf Linden is a prolific bloomer, the small, fragrant flowers appearing in late June and into July. Many bees are attracted to the flowers, and the dried flowers persist on the tree for some time. • Ulmus parvifolia 'Drake - 'Drake' Chinese (Lacebark) Elm Chinese Elm is an excellent tree that is surprisingly under-used and possesses many traits which make it ideal for a multitude of landscape uses. Lacebark elm makes a fast-growing and nearly evergreen tree as leaves tend to stay on. Lacebark elm extremely tolerant of urban stress and resistant to Dutch elm Disease (DED). The elm thrives under drought conditions, and will adopt to alkaline soil, relatively free of pests and diseases. • Zelkova serrata - Japanese Zelkova Zelkova is a fast growing, graceful tree suitable as a replacement for American Elms, tolerant of urban conditions, under extreme conditions splitting can occur at the crotch because of the narrow angle, resistant to DED. The cultivar 'Green Vase' is an excellent selection. Zelkova has a moderate growth rate and likes a sunny exposure. Branches are more numerous and smaller in diameter than American Elm. Leaves are 1.5 to 4 inches long, turning a brilliant yellow, orange, or burnt umber in the fall. Best suited for a place with plenty of room and space. Some of these would still obviously give cutters plenty of work

Ginko may have advantages, and some with autumn colours would be a treat for the cities, not sure how well they stand up to pollution e.g liquid ambar

I have Rope Wrench and Bulldog Bone, not a full time climber, mostly gardening, but getting into it. For a full time climber I don't see even 4 or 5k in climbing gear as a massive investment. For the sake of a few hundred quid if you can save a strain injury, or increase productivity. Since getting the bone, I haven't used the Wrench. It does work well, but the bone is more compact - only one thing to connect and no hitch to wear out.

I agree - the pollarding does enable big trunks to be retained, but with the increased botanical knowledge and availability of hybrids there must now be better street trees than lime and plane. I mean better in terms of not growing so big so fast and therefore costing less

interesting point about whether you'd actually be able to stay put, 15ton for 22 - 24mm wire, it said on the listing you could click and collect at Argos, can't see the Argos staff wanting to lift that. I use click and collect if I'm not in for the courier, but checked the conditions and there is a weight limit8" 15 Ton ( 15000 kg ) Heavy Duty SNATCH BLOCK SWIVEL SHACKLE - Pulley Lifting | eBay

it wants something - I think it would be worth doing time just to have the privilege of taking one of their lives

oh - there must be some way hole in the ground breezeblock retaining wall big enough for chipper, grinder etc, steel plates over hole. Rusty old loader tractor in yard. Cover steel plates concealing chipper hole with woodchip. In morning scrape off wood chip, move plates and lift out chipper.

that's why I said could it be hidden - even if it means cutting and welding the box section chassis. Shade 11600 Live Vehicle/Asset Tracker - Eyetek Surveillance I haven't researched it in any detail and obviously if it were welded in somewhere there may be difficulty charging the batteries, maybe the fuel tank is an option.

is there a battery powered tracker available (I'm thinking long life batteries) that could be concealed inside the box section frame of a chipper, even burn an opening, pop the tracker inside on some araldite etc and weld a patch over grind flush and paint.Suppose it depends if a tracker emits through steel plate, but surely a possibility, even with a better location for concealing it, fuel tank?

I know this won't help you now, but in an isolated yard, the risk of theft is so high would it make any difference to jack the chipper up onto blocks each night and even take the spare wheel home too? A good battery impact wrench may be £250 odd, but it would be a bit more inconvenient for thieves if they had to supply wheels.

that was a great video - always the way chance plays a part in everything, with his mum forgeting to tell him of his job in the engineering plant I think he was very wise to chain that big top up, so much force there before the hinge goes, rather him than me. 50 foot fliplines!

I knew it needed drilling off, just couldn't work out what to do after, thought it would be bend round some coathanger wire or something, the dog snap is ideal. the velcro is ok if it stays glued on, but that looks easier and quicker, good tip

My 04 plate instrument panel was a bit dodgy 4 years ago when I bought it - digital time clock flickering, then recently the whole cluster stopped working, speedo, revs all of it. I searched on transit owners forum and a common fix that 'works 50% of the time' is to remove trim and instrument cluster, e.g. per Haynes manual, then spray back of PCB with electrical contact cleaner. I did this and maybe used too much so dabbed it off with tissue, re- assembled, plugged it back in and it is all working now.

I like that - got a Cinch I'm not using, could get a cheap bit of static access rope to abseil down on

very nice

there used to be loads, but housing estates spreading like a cancer (Isle of Wight)

CS360 TES 2 years, very reliable, although don't see why it has to have a primer bulb, 200T doesn't need one SRMF250L strimmer/ brushcutter, was dear 400 odd, but done 5 years with switch repair, new plug and air filter, again excellent reliability. Good on fuel for lawn edging and strimming where the mowers won't go (up to .5 acre sometimes)

that's more reasonable, good find

that hook and eye thing - an eye watering 270 euros Sherill's backbone $49 plus shipping, not the same kit, but apparently chockable