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tree-fancier123

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Everything posted by tree-fancier123

  1. tree-fancier123
    ha ha
  2. tree-fancier123
    if your rope is less than double tree height and you come down from near top - tie a stopper knot in the tail end so you don't descend off into mid air. Make sure not to descend too fast on a rope prussik you will burn it out. And keep an eye on the rope below you - if your nearing the end and still some way off the ground find a convenient place to stop so you can stand on a branch, secure with lanyard, then re anchor your rope over a lower branch and continue down. Minimum size for an anchor point is supposed to be wrist thickness at the top - be warned though trees are organic and it is not risk free at all - a climber on these boards failed his assessment because his anchor point broke! If you learn on some smaller oaks first it will help - metal figure 8 device can be used to abseil down cheap and saves burning your prussik loops - these prussiks should be 10mm dia approx for a 13mm climbing line
  3. tree-fancier123
    figure 8 stopper knot in the tail end
  4. tree-fancier123
    this rope if you're serious about having a go - dont forget to read the book too its not long Yale XTC Plus 25m 13mm Climbing Rope 1 Splice Tree Surgeons | eBay book THE TREE CLIMBER'S COMPANION ARBORIST GUIDE TECH BOOK | eBay you must have a lanyard to remain attached when you are advancing your climbing line - or a net below
  5. tree-fancier123
    it doesn't say the rope is partially severed in the listing it only says retired, i just meant to run it through his hands end to end to check its not nicked, sorry should have spelled that out. Before i did any courses i went up 70 80 foot oaks in the woods - i did spend a few quid more on gear than he is intending and also read Jeff Jepsons tree climbers companion - to the original poster - get this book its only 12 quid. Seriously dont ever try up a dead tree, and if you can afford to invest in a 13mm arborist rope e.g 25m Yale XTC plus all the better
  6. tree-fancier123
    here's some rope - probably wouldnt break if its not nicked (partially severed) seller just covering themselves Retired Indoor Climbing Rope 10.5mm | eBay this is an 8mm prussik loop MARLOW VIPER PRUSSIK LOOP 50-60-70CM - heat resistant | eBay you could just use a short length of the rope as a non adjustable lanyard for when you reach a branch to change over and throw your main rope (with carabiner on end) above to the next branch. death or glory
  7. tree-fancier123
    so you made a mistake as a jest, feigned ignorance, wish I hadn't posted my comment now Sugoi 360, like the thrift element, sharpens up ok
  8. tree-fancier123
    I thought it was Gomtaro? No?
  9. tree-fancier123
    sounds like you only just made it there! a barber chair on spikes doesn't bear thinking about - was it a leaner? could you have used a bore cut? what are things to look out for that may not be obvious? How would you do the same job next time around? - don't say sub it out
  10. tree-fancier123
    yes - I realize simply firing the bigshot over the top (or out through the top) of a congested crown, pulling the line up then just snapping out the twigs with a quick bounce and ascending will never be 'best practice' - 12 feet fall wouldn't do climber or gear much good.
  11. tree-fancier123
    I heard tale of an accident involving a high anchor point put in with a big shot - apparently the anchor point broke and the climber fell - it was someone on a training course talking about this, not heard any other incidents like this, but binoculars don't seem silly if going for a high branch. And bounce test with two people - although it could break a perfectly good anchor point? Personally I like the idea of a base tie over the top of the whole tree - if some of the twiggy bits break there's plenty more left.
  12. tree-fancier123
    I don't know the technical answers to your rope questions, but if you buy Yale XTC, DMM ovals and a hitch climber you will be fine, unless you saw through the rope, or the bit you are tied into is dead and breaks off
  13. tree-fancier123
    I've had same with bit of casing under top handle coming adrift, will have a go with duct tape. Was well pleased to save the £200. For me it's always dealing with the waste that takes too long, not cutting wood. If I was sawing 10" oak all week long maybe my 200T would come out of the museum.
  14. tree-fancier123
    ideal with the digger in tow, cleaning up after storms a speciality
  15. tree-fancier123
    there's a big horsechestnut about 5 metres away from my place, roots into the joins in clay drain pipes is a problem. It's not horrendous though, the drain pipes can be replaced with plastic which is much less susceptible to roots. 10 metres away sounds like it would be a lot less bother. You can google tree consultants 'your area' to get quotes to do full report. Ideally someone with a level 6 diploma in arboriculture. I gather people do inspect trees with the lower level 4, but my impression is those with level 6 are worth seeking out for their more in depth knowledge
  16. tree-fancier123
    this would do - chipper on front, trailer behind
  17. tree-fancier123
    If you're PAYE on the books why go flat out ultra efficient like a permanent military exercise? I mean if he's paying the foreman say 28k, if the foreman really pulls out all the stops and tries to bust a gut to get it done ultra efficient is he suddenly going up from 28k to 36? It's a long road to retirement - sometimes better to do just enough and not develop high blood pressure. Why can't it be - nice day - exciting climb - great surroundings, rather than yay we're the best organized most energetic fastest team going
  18. tree-fancier123
    [ame=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEQzaS4CnL8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEQzaS4CnL8[/ame]
  19. tree-fancier123
    it would be good if your tracked grinder could have a tow hitch on and help move it about, maybe it's not a big enough grinder for that I've spent a while browsing the various options - a Greenmech safetrack is a nice chipper - or the wheeled version 19-28, seems a bit beefier than a Jenson 540 Although if you got a tracked machine on a trailer towing behind a transit you can soon get up to the towing allowance, safetrack probably pushing the limit, Jensen about 400kg lighter. A bandit 90 is around 2ton too I believe.
  20. tree-fancier123
    why can't you just spend more time reading the course books and material, then writing less sleep and leisure time till you've passed this is 'general chat' there is a sub forum in the menu ' training and education' check the threads, esp recent one they set up a help group for a cuddle up
  21. tree-fancier123
    if there's room for the trunks to expand and a big canopy above, maybe the trees would live if you severed just the big roots going towards the wall - bit of digging and a few old chains. You could say kill or cure. There is a big horse chestnut outside where I live and several big roots have been hacked to keep them out the drains, this tree still going strong, but your sycamores could be the unlucky ones that get fungi into the wounds and its done for
  22. tree-fancier123
    brilliant - thanks, didn't want to splash the cash on a dedicated product if I could use what I have already i.e a bit of rope
  23. tree-fancier123
    just wondering about this myself - Mistahbenn or anyone - is the Blake's ok to hold a spiderleg (of say 2mm less dia than rigging line). Also if you were to tie a large eye in end of intended spiderleg rope to enable tying the klemheist, what knot to tie the eye? (need to get splicing really)
  24. tree-fancier123
    sure - I just meant if he's already got O licence and HGV drivers it would seem easier to convert the registration to HGV
  25. tree-fancier123
    Especially seeing as his drivers got HGVs and they got the O licence, surely an extra half hour on the road is worth it if you can turn up with that thing

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