kimtree
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Everything posted by kimtree
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definately worth doing. Even on the bigger chippers if your anvil/bedknife is not sharp you end up with more sticks than chips in the mulch when chipping small stuff On bigger logs it doesnt make much difference
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which model do you have and how wide is it.I have a 2026 1250mm wide loader with over 2200 hours on it now and have never put it on it's side.Did come close once though.
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before swapping to another system it may be worth trying the Rhino stump teeth .They will fit on the Multitip wheel you will have no trouble sharpening them as they are shaped like 'half a spoon' and there is plenty of carbide on them
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what you need is a roll out roof ripstop pvc or heavy duty shadecloth and you would eliminate 95% of that spillage with a roof you get better chip packing as well
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Euraccess are the UK dealer they do have a web site. if you go with Cela make sure that parts supply is good/quick as here in AUS is extremely crap.The only non service part i have needed so far is a replacement for a burst track adjuster which took a month to arrive Other basic service parts have taken 3 months or more to arrive and is beyond a :thumbdown:joke Unfortunately I dont know who is the incompetent party the Aus dealer or the Italian manufacturer Cela spyder is a good machine but the backup is non existent in AUS
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Cela tracked lifts have been around for a few years now so you may be able to get a secondhand one cela doesnt seem to have much of a profile in the market what ever you get make sure it has at least 10 metres out reach the Cela DT24 has 12 metres but with only 100kg in the basket Also the first boom can stand straight up 14 metres an advantage that only Teupen has as well Not that i have used it but it also has the ability to go 4.5 metres below the grade As far as size wise i would doubt in the 24 metre class you would find a more compact lift
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have a look at the Cela DT range of spiderlifts I have a DT 24.it is fast in all movements except tracking and very compact:thumbup1:
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superanuation over here in OZ Employer has to pay into your account about 10% of your salary and you can put in a certain amount per year at a reduced tax level yourself however when you take it out depending on wether it is a lump sum or dribbled out pension style you are taxed on it at a reduced level So your taxed on the way in and out as well However they keep changing the rules on what age you can get it and the pay in % changes depending on what party is in at the time
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thats when you have an articulated loader and a BMG to do the hard labour for you i realize though that in some cases you cant get the machine in
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great film productions in the trees are my business vids lots of gear as well but i can't help thinking that they would be better off with a articulated loader and rotating grapple instead of two Vermeer skid loaders. The Vermeers sure look a handy unit but production wise you can't beat a swinger
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the closest local saw doctor or supplier to me is about 3000 klms away.By grinding and setting my own blades i am saving on downtime and lots of freight charges in the long term i am better off doing it my self
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copford gets top of the range:thumbup1: kimtree gets the bottom of the range:thumbdown: i've ordered a bmst 50 manual grinder and setter combo as it is in my price range and i am not a full time sawyer
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Does anyone sharpen and set there own woodmizer blades ? I am buying a LT15 wide and because i live so far away from a sharpening service (either 880klms or 3000klms away)i'm thinking of buying a sharpener and setter as well. Any opinions
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Did GM every make a stump grinder similar to "little david" but self propelled in late 1980's? it was chain driven to the wheels.I remember it because when the dealer did the demo the chain snapped trying to go up some steps
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no problems chipping bamboo and on the bigger stuff it sorta plays a tune as it goes thru:thumbup1:
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the option has already been mentioned.You will need a permanently attached rope system and a descender.But forget trying to grab hold of a 2'' line. That's just mad dont know why but my comments came out in the quote
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the chance of being able to in a spit second drop your brush grab the rope and hold on is too unlikely to be able to rely on bearing in mind that if a stabilizer/ground gives out the lift will/may not drop vertically but could very well scoop you out from the wall in any random direction if you must insist on this idea get a Petzl stop or Rig(and there are plenty of other devices on the market as well) and the correct rope size and length for your purpose and attach it to the front of your harness at all times and disconnect yourself from the basket ( disclaimer added) if the worst case then happens at least you can go with the flow and then descend if you are still capable falling out of the basket while cutting a branch? Must be a European thing.I have never heard of any one doing that in Australia
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i have used a nifty lift for 9 years now and have never had a incident when it looked like going over i have had however numerous incidents involving the machines failings whilst aloft (mostly electrical)and one incident when a hydraulic line broke directly over the motor and came close to catching fire now the nifty is only around now to service the new machine A Cela DT24 spyder which feels a bit more "safe" than the nifty except at full height where it sort of "wobbles" about abit I think if your going to use any sort of mechanical lifting device you will have to trust the manufacturer and use an anchoring device in the basket only. And the correct use of stabilizer pads, PPE etc is advised as well
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I presume that you are wearing a harness I have 20 metres of rope and a petzl stop device in a drybag permentley fixed on my Nifty 17 lift for the many occasions that i have had to bail out Works as intended
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Follow up on these Rhino teeth.Haven't managed to chip the teeth yet and have ground stumps in very rocky ground but after a lot of grinding they will round over.very simple to re sharpen though the wide cutters have worked out well too.I am running them in the position closest to the centre of the wheel
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if you dont mind a wide kerf you cant go wrong with a Lucasmill. if you want a narrow kerf how about a LT15 wide Woodmizer suposed to be able to cut 36"" wide slabs
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form it up with form ply with a decent footing and lots of reo and pour a solid concrete wall. just make sure it is well shored up and supported during the pour as concrete will find any weak spots otherwise
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get a articulated loader if you can afford it.i would steer clear of any hydraulic stump grinding attachment Down the track get a stump grinder with its own motor and a belt driven cutting head
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what have you come across when trimming the bush .....
kimtree replied to IVECOKID's topic in General chat
found the remains of a 22 rifle wedged in to low fork of a tree we felled.All of the stock had been consumed by the termites. -
i had a 27hp kohler on my 2006 laski stumpgrinder which was a dog from the start:thumbdown: the same sized motor on my lucas mill has been going strong for 10 years now:thumbup1:?
