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Pete Mctree

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Everything posted by Pete Mctree

  1. If you change the carb & muffler on a 341 to that of a 361 then you have a 361!!!
  2. Carb & exhaust
  3. Pegs where needed & non otherwise, and as for having to use a cambium saver to descent of your not professional - what a load of rubbish. Cut a notch or come down the back-side away from the small peg. All 3 options function equally, but the smashing of my cambium saver onto the black-top is my least favorite.
  4. Looks interesting. If it works through crowns that easily, it would be a good addition to the tool kit
  5. I rigorously inspect AV mounts to the best of my ability. This includes paying attention to how our saws "feel". I look after 29 machines including blowers/pole saws ets I work wit the saws I fix, so I can gauge (often by comparison & a 2nd opinion) there condition & act when needed. The ones most frequently replaced are for the 200t's front handle, which, when replaced, I will replace the rear AV rubber at the same time. Hope this helps
  6. In frenchish, so it will be a surprise when it happens
  7. Pete Mctree

    Topping

    I'm not usually a fan of cutting through a hinge when topping. A thin one - yes, but a mistimed cut can send a top side wards, or even over backwards. Control is everything
  8. WOW you got a 560 - bully for you . Why don't you run around, telling everyone like a 5 year old with a new trainset, whilst holding mummys hand. Oh hang on a minute, you are This is getting so tedious, (especially coming from members who have not even run the saw). Why not discuss someones choice as opposed to blitzing a thread - someone might need help, or information hence posting!!
  9. Tha's gonna catch a death of cold
  10. Stihl UK do supply dual port mufflers - I have one. Ask a dealer to get you one. You only need to buy the front cover as you can cut out the internals yourself. There is quite a noticable power increase making it a worthwhile IMO as your saw will also run cooler as well You MUST richen up the carb however or you will kill the saw!!
  11. The high output oiler makes all the difference. Best option in my opinion
  12. Was the root system windthrown or decayed? If the latter, I would not risk it for a fence. If windthrown & static (i would not climb if there was alot of movement) it would be a climb out as far as you dare & cut off tiny pieces to try & minimise any movement of the tree. Looks an interesting job for sure
  13. The kits are good, but the training on how & when to use them is equally important
  14. Glad they got nothing & get that dog a bloody good bone!!!
  15. The true winner is the one that did not have to take down the rest of the tree - just collect the cheque
  16. Is the Mammut line constructed to deal with the heat & abrasion an arb line is subject too? If it's a static kernmantle then it might be good for static line srt work, but not for dDrt
  17. Have you ever increased the size of the face-cut, to ease the tree over by changing the centre of gravity?
  18. When i first heard it, I rejected it also, however it does make sense
  19. A higher back-cut is only needed if there is a danger of the tree sliding back off the stump (Americans call it stump-shot) , apart from that it is detrimental to the felling process. e.g. It increases the length of fibers needed to flex in the felling process - therefore you need to cut the hinge much finer to committ the tree which means less control as the hinge is more likely to break
  20. Our arbor-comms failed today. Really needed them too
  21. Ponderosa pines? A lot have died
  22. Great for access...........
  23. I cannot think of a device that could do this. You would have to use a friction bollard or something similar manned by someone really switched on. If you were to overpull the rope with the boat, any system would probably be destroyed without a breakaway

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