Pete Mctree

I use ratchet straps in exceptional circumstances and they do help (I have even used chain in some occasions). Usually on defective trees or those that I am going to pull hard and fast I.e. With a big forestry winch. It is not something I do on a run of the mill tree like the one in the original post. The cutting on the first video was a fail - he was not allowed to cut the tree up before it was pulled - they created that split by pre loading.

You represent probably 0.01% of Arb work then. The rest of us are on the clock & if you are professional and working at speed (or not) then safety is still the priority. Some of the most productive crews I have ever worked with have been the most switched on & safety orientated.

I don't understand the point you are trying to make - that you could safely cut that tree with a face cut? Anything but a face cut would be at the best be folly - you would remove all control over the cut piece - even if you avoided the barberschair then direction & the way is would depart the stump would be unpredictable & dangerous.

The coos bay & it's variants are fantastic tools to have in the box, but I am very sure that I would not use it in this scenario though. It, functions by gradually releasing the tension stored in the tree. However, it does not cleanly separate the tree from the stump and because the climber is relatively low down in the tree it could be dangerous. The tree could stay on the stump, hitting the ground tip first & then pushing the butt back towards the climber potentially striking them - not good. Whatever cut chosen when felling in this position, (dropping a long leader from low down in the tree,) then this factor must also be considered.

Same, but was using double estelron

The SIPS I have are cool enough & have both vents & tick guards. Not sure which ones they are as the range is quite big

Flexibility & movement, hard wearing & breathability (leg vents a must). Colour not a big issue as long as it is not unpleasant. Tried on quite a few pairs over the years ( I only wear type a) & the top runners for me at the moment are SIPS then Pfanner. They fulfil my criteria & fit me well.

Easier done than you imagine - a decent lump of beech & a numb groundie & your breaking shit.

How do people perceive cs 40 & cs41? If cs32 is not required to climb & dismantle trees, then what do you need?

If you had an accident dismantling a tree over 380mm, what qualifications would your insurance company & the HSE expect you to have? Sorry to answer a question with a question, but that is how I would look at it. Most companies around this end have staff qualified for trees over 380mm

Tidy work - how long does a tree like that take? Large single stemmed trees are very uncommon around here so I have little experience of them.

I have run a 440, 441, 460, 461, 462 husky 372 & 572. Non of which should run a 25" bar in hardwoods cutting commercially- that is time for a 90cc saw IMO. The 440/441 and 372/572 are great forestry saws, capable of ergonomic shedding & felling, the torque of the 460/461 make for more of a felling or crosscutting machine. The 462 is the best midrange cutting saw I have ever run - it just works on another level. I just wish I could justify owning one. Weirdly it's vibration figures are quite high but in the hand it feels quite smooth.

I agree about the emissions, but economy? Your using a smaller saw saw logic says that it is potentially cheaper.

All my saws apart from an 084 are ported. Some by Spud, some by myself & other builders. The increase in performance is noticeable & for me they have been a great investment. However, there may be issues with employees and persons other than yourself using them however.

I have recently had to switch from a rightfooted to a left footed ascender to relieve knee pain. good technique helps too - try to "pedal a pushbike backwards" when using it.