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Dan Maynard

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Everything posted by Dan Maynard

  1. Sounds a bit rum, on the other hand it was 6pm and he still had half a load to chip and a long way home - clearly not having a good day so maybe difficult to be cheery.
  2. I think this will be a personal choice. Myself I would not spray anything to protect against insects, the tree will do a good job itself and the environment is better the less we spray around. Consider good formative pruning, mulch if possible and don't let the young tree dry out too much this summer.
  3. I agree it is possible to sum the two rope force vectors to get the red one, but as this is the sum of two forces the red force is bigger than the rope tension. The force across the stump to pull the tree over is exactly the same. I would consider it from the digger end, a certain pull on the rope has to be resisted by the tree no matter how it's tied on, what changes is the loading within the wood.
  4. It's absolutely true you can use force vectors to describe the situation. Or, as the fork doesn't care what is on each end of the rope or what is going to happen next you can count the ropes and say the situation with two ropes going to the fork will put more load on it than only one. In this situation I doubled the rope round the stem and back to the tow point, as it halves the load on the rope. I guess depends what you think is most likely to fail.
  5. I also have some friends who live next door to a house called The Cedars, except from their back garden you can see the cedar is dead as a doornail. Apparently they were advised it would be safe for 20 years like that so in no rush to take it down, naturally decay resistant. I was thinking it would be a nice log to mill though...
  6. I tried to read up about this as I worked on a few cedars over the winter. As far as I got to, the old atlas ascends is only _usually_ true but cone form is a reliable indicator. One of the trees we did the customer swore there were no cones but once we took it down they were there on the branches.
  7. To answer your question, no it shouldn't be a deal breaker if everything else is right about the house. It is quite tall but not really a big tree, probably younger than the house. Good access and nothing underneath so very straightforward to remove. I think there are a lot more scare stories than actual cases of subsidence. In the end of there was a problem it will be for insurance to sort out so you should just make sure you have declared it to the insurers so that you are definitely covered, and complied with whatever they say to do. Quite likely take it out, but that's a guess not advice.
  8. Could just be duff plug and that's the end of it, they do fail sometimes. Had em go bad when hot too so engine starts fine then plays up when warm. If it's running fine then maybe after a few hours pull the plugs and just check it's not going black again.
  9. I was trying to figure out whether a weak spark caused the fouling or the fouling with carbon caused the weak spark. Either way I'd start with checks and easy things. New plugs, check air filter clean, check plug lead condition, check fuel filter.
  10. This is pretty common, definitely add it.
  11. Could also go 3/8 narrow gauge to reduce the strain, I've not done a huge amount but I put a 36" bar with Stihl ripping chain onto my 365 and it did fine on 24" cedar. RobD sells a nice kit with all the bits.
  12. Looks scary in the picture, work on the basis that branches are conductive and that high voltage can jump air gaps, looks like parts of those are potentially live. By the book you should not work within 9m of the line/poles to stay out of the proximity zone, probably not a bad distance until you get proper advice from someone on site.
  13. Hmm, I may be learning that in slow time at the moment.
  14. I have a tree next to a similar H pole to do, I checked specifically with Trust and they said working near power lines is not a problem, doing powerline clearance would require specific insurance though. I did UA1 in the meantime, I think worthwhile to find out about how to identify the gear and how far away you should keep from everything.
  15. Has the decayed limb on the ground come from the stub in the main crotch? If it has then I would take it that decay has progressed down the wood as well as up, if you give it a sounding might be quite hollow so as Mark says those are very liable to break. And yes you are right that increasing lean is a bad sign, normally you'd start looking at the roots for decay, or ground movement, to see what is going on but obviously these are too far down to see. My guess is that the stem is not decayed yet or it would have already fallen over but the roots are decaying under there so the bottom is not secure. Is it showing normal signs of budding and sprouting like healthy trees around? That would be a sign if the roots are dying. Whichever, silver birch decays fast so it's not a tree you can leave a few years while you think about it, will turn to mush inside the bark.
  16. I tried exhaust assembly paste once, just a drop. As alkaline as bleach apparently, scarred the eyeball. But nothing is good, it's so frustrating having sore eyes and can't rub or scratch or anything. Hope you clear up soon.
  17. Do you need it in a hurry? We have aspen in local wood which will be felled but as it's SSSI not possible until September.
  18. Would I use them? No, I don't regret the money I spent on the multisaver. Apart from the carabiner, there is a risk of the prussic slipping so I would at least put a figure 8 on the tail. Multisaver covers this with second ring.
  19. I think that's a tricky one. I've seen a few adverts of people selling all the gear, but as a business it would come down to finding someone local willing to give you money for the customer list. If they don't pay for the list they just up the advertising budget and collect the customers anyway....
  20. It sounds as the solenoid is working but the relay is dicky, flickering isn't right. Most plugin relay problems (chipper or not) are with the connections, may be able to clean or just replace to be sure, and check contacts are tight. It is also possible it's a wiring break or even the connection to the solenoid of course, but you have to change one thing and see how it goes to track down the fault.
  21. Personally I would cut low, I would rather any funny business with breaking hinges, splitting or snapping trigger straps is nearer my feet than my face. I will also say that Dogstooth cut doesn't guarantee success, as it requires you to judge how much dead (maybe slightly decayed) timber it takes to hold the tree up and if you don't quite leave enough it will suddenly go with a bang. Having tried to give advice/opinion, I think you should definitely be aware there is a massive amount of tension in that timber which is prone to split (ash) and weakened since it's dead. If it snaps off or splits upwards it is liable to turn lethal very quickly, that is why people are suggesting to get someone in. Climbing and piecing it down could be safer, difficult to tell from photos.
  22. Sorry, have got a Kombi but never dismantled it. Is number 16 loctite or grease? Could be number 6 is loctited on?
  23. Have to agree it's not clamping. Another idea - one of the studs on my secondhand saw had been stretched be overtightening, as the threads are now a bit too far apart on that part the nut goes tight before pulling down onto the bar so I have a couple of washers behind it. One other thought, is the sprocket definitely ok as maybe if that sticks then the chain would pull in on the bar? Can you borrow or swap the bar to test?
  24. I thought Orange Plant were hiring JoBeau but don't seem to see it and there's an M400 listed as for sale so I wonder if they gave up. Maybe give them a ring?
  25. Eggs, are you selling to private individuals or businesses? If private then without the written quote you are also in danger of falling foul of Consumer Contract regulations as there are certain things you're obliged to inform customers. Easy T&C on all quotes once it's written but keeps everything covered.

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