Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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... whereas I run 16" on my 261 and would say that's perfect, don't get 18". My 2p would be that if you have only one saw then 50cc perfect, 40cc a bit small so 261/550xp good choice. I started with Stihl largely because of dealer support near me. After that it really depends how much of the bigger stuff you are going to cut, a lot of 20"+ stems then you may want a 70cc saw to make it quicker but that's another big step in cost, power, weight, cutting forces etc so not a natural step from the 181.
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That's true but recoil springs aren't very highly stressed and he only wants a week out of it, I reckon worth a go.
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I've also heard the flight path theory, and we do have some elms near us which are in a hollow and much taller than 5m without being infected, but when I asked last about the mechanism I didn't get a very definitive answer. The eggs get laid right in the top of the tree where the branches are young so not sure I totally follow your cambium thickness theory. I don't know the answer though.
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I believe it also depends if you are on hitch or zigzag - some friction up top isn't a bad thing if you are using a hitch, as it takes some of the load off the hitch and reduces tendency to bind. Pulley and zz is apparently great combination but I have not climbed it. The multisaver is a lot more useful than plain cambium saver, that is what I would buy but I am on a hitchclimber.
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In the house, I also worried about rodents. I don't think damp itself is an issue (or you wouldn't climb in the rain), but I don't like the idea of mould on it that might happen if it stays damp.
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Doubtless someone else will be able to advise the exact type but looks like bark beetles have eaten all the juicy cambium. I think I see a patch on the stem and on another of the limbs, so basically I would say it's too late for treatment, it's an ex tree.
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Short ones. I guess there are bigger trees that need long but not round here.
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Exactly, in the horse chestnut example above what took the time was explaining the long term effects and why the neighbours paying for the initial cut is all well and good but they are making you an ongoing liability. Previously topped sycamore I've been in hasn't rotted as badly, only a couple of feet but long shoots sprung up then cracked off and landed on neighbours TV aerial so still ongoing maintenance issues for that tree. And it was just far too small a garden for a sycamore, remove and replace would have left them in a better situation at the seven year mark which is when I was up it.
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"asking for a mate" You've bought yourself a 171 haven't you?
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Having spent some time this evening writing an email to 'the neighbours want to reduce the horse chestnut next to the village hall by half as it's blocking their light, is this a good idea' - can we have a 'Why not to top trees' link at the top of arbtalk.co.uk with some photo examples that we can point customers to?
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Found a couple of pics of a poplar which had been topped a few years before. Nearly hollow 18" stems at top, soft spongy wood 3/4 of stem at bottom, roots decayed to hollow at the base. New people had bought the house so we weren't sure how long but counting rings about 10 years.
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Yeah to be fair I don't use one for my chipper as that drives itself up the ramps, but I do use a hand winch to pull the big trailer up into the shed.
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Bit funny Mark sold his grinder really, given all these stumps he's leaving around the place....
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I'm thinking about the Mary Rose which they brought out of the Solent in the 80s, that went off to be sprayed with a wax that would gradually replace the water in the timber so it could later be out in the open air without cracking. That would be the ultimate, but I agree probably not too practical a suggestion.
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Or a little boat trailer hand winch, cheap as chips.
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I've started to use Landmark Trading as they are near me, website seems reasonable so far.
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They are same cc really, 70.7 vs 72 but the 365 is basically a throttled 372xp. Power is 3.6kw vs 4.4kw which is a pretty big percentage increase whilst being lighter so the 462 will cut faster.
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I would be happy to be corrected, I think the arb association used to have the RAMS up for free but now they are members only so advice to look there may not be helpful.
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Sure as a sharp chain finds a nail, if you sell it you'll soon put a cut in your new rope and then wish you had a spare. But if you keep it you won't need it, that way you can carry on climbing on your new rope. Keep it. You know it makes sense.
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Presumably those are the push and twist 90degree pop off like the 261 though? Doesn't take any longer than undoing the screw on the 461 really, although I guess you do have to find a combi spanner.
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Bought my new 330 zubat blade, man it's sharp.
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We took some bamboo down the other week, it went off to the local wildlife park as food. Saved chipping.
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My German not up to everything in that document but petrol appeared to be fine whereas washing powder an absolute disaster. They recommend no more than 30C. Not entirely sure what to think now.
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I was also taught petrol contamination is a LOLER fail. I also think we should state that manufacturers guidelines are to avoid any chemical contamination, so white spirit cleaning would be a no no. Obviously they are conservative in their recommendations but with it being me hanging from the rope I wouldn't take chances. I haven't experience with Ficus but Beal cleaner is surprisingly good on its own at connie sap.
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How to trim branches when there is nothing above them
Dan Maynard replied to forestboy1978's topic in General chat
Did you get chance to speak to the neighbors who own the tree? Maybe some of the branches could be removed completely, avoids ugly stubs, might achieve enough extra light etc for your customer. If the neighbors are at war then no easy answers. Pics would help of course.
