Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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... and when they argue about why she keeps losing them she hasn't got a leg to stand on.
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Nice cup of tea in my hand... When I was doing CS39 I talked about which units to do next, my trainer thought CS32 isn't much use in domestic arb as if you get a bigger tree you would pick up a bigger saw. But I don't see any units at all allowing you to use a 25" bar. I guess I'm saying the idea we only do things which are on the certs is flawed at several levels. Portfolio of past work seems to me the best way to demonstrate competence.
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I think you'll find 15" will be 50cc saws on the whole so maybe you will be a bit underpowered. My thought is that if you are actually going to do larger trees after the course then you will want a bigger saw and a 7900 would be an investment. Best plan either way though will be chat with training centre you choose, if you borrow a saw would give you the chance to try out different sizes - 7900 will take a bit of getting used to compared to 4300 as it's a big step up in weight and cutting forces.
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I keep pondering this, for 3.5 ton towing 4x4 that isn't huge I keep coming back to the conclusion that a Landrover 110 is the sensible option. But then I think 'sensible option' and Landrover surely don't belong in the same sentence?
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Not sure it worked on that pine either, looked just like the hinge broke normally to me. What are the targets apart from the wall? I'd have more faith in a winch line, maybe drop down the back of the tree and get clear before pulling it over.
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I'm an advocate of building up gradually, hedges need relatively low investment whereas tree work is difficult to do anything substantial without quite a bit of kit. If you can gradually get to know local tree firms collaborating on weekends is probably the way to go from the point of view of kit, experience and manpower. I use Stihl kombi, one other thing about it is it comes in half so easy to transport in a car boot. People are very enthusiastic about the new battery stuff though, and for evening and Sunday work might be a really good choice to reduce the noise. And definitely get a Silky.
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Sounds bad - seems to me if your back's been bad 3 months then it is not going to fix itself so you need to make some kind of change, would be a shame if that is give up firewood if you love it. I think you will have to look at all the parts of the job and see which are twisting or bending you worst so you choose where to spend, there are so many options of firewood machinery. Also I like Stubbys idea to employ someone, even if it's a few days or weekends getting a bit of help it would hopefully give you chance to recover.
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I agree that emptying the bin is the worst bit, tempting to fill all the way up but it's a bit heavy so I just stop at about 2/3 full. Roll up the ramps on the trailer which the chipper came down and then upend it. I have experimented with a wheelbarrow and greedy boards, is easier on grass and easier to tip but less manoeuvrable down narrow garden paths. Still working on the design...
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When you have a JoBeau a wheelie bin is more useful, tarp down then quicker to stuff that lot in the chipper than stack onto an arb trolley, and wheeling chip out drops no leaves at all. End of job I stuff tarps into the bin and throw it up on top of chip with a ratchet strap.
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Well I wouldn't want to join in a 'rate my weld' thread after that, very tidy. Inverter is the modern way I guess, the lights do go dim when I pull the trigger which may also be because of the transformer I guess.
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I bought a Murex Tradesmig 171, brilliant bit of kit, turns down really well for bodywork as well as being about the biggest single phase mig capacity. Weighs as much as a small bungalow though so not for mobile use, wheel it round the workshop only.
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Aye, climbing through it, carried on as normal. In an apple tree.
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I can commiserate, I flooded my 461 the first time I took it out and had to carry on with old saw. I have since concluded that bigger saws need a lot less choke in general. I also got a tip for unflooding which has worked for me. Push the choke to off and hold the throttle full on, pull over the starter and this pumps fresh air through the engine and flushes out the excess fuel, it will eventually cough like a normal start. Then release throttle to normal fast idle start and pull again.
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Ah - finally somebody corroborating what I was told which was get rid of the rim/spline and fit spur! Maybe I'm not totally bonkers.
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I think you've got 2 years to fell it anyway, so could claim you're doing it slowly.... More seriously, in a CA you don't exactly have permission to fell but rather you have notified the council that you intend to fell and they have decided not to put a TPO on the tree to stop you. I can't really see that they would want to put a TPO on to prevent you from reducing if they are happy for it to be felled, but I guess really a question to check with the TO. Best case would be an email, then you're covered.
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It says 4km/h in the book, although I've never tried to time it over a distance.
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Oh, you wouldn't want me bringing my old beat up chipper and showing up all your shiny new ones..... Then again, I'm up for it. We all learn something whatever happens, maybe I should be buying a new chipper because new ones are better? Definitely wouldn't be a proper chip-off without a JoBeau there.
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I think your best bet will be to go up a thread size, tap it out and then turn up an insert from a stainless cap head. Loctite that in with the permanent retainer grade. Assuming you can get use of a lathe of course....
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Yes please. How does that work?
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You'll be quicker over 100m downhill I reckon I'd beat you uphill with my M500.
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They weren't real sandwiches before. Now he's 'recorded it all on his smartphone' they exist properly. Another fine piece of investigative journalism.
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This looks a little bit like the small Timber wolf design, which is ok if the material is straight but the entry to cutters is roughly square. The small drum type chippers (Greenmech, JoBeau, Peruzzo, Haeksler etc) chip about the same max diameter but the chute and blades are much wider so small forks will go down and get cut. I don't know if your prunings are straight, may not be an issue.
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Similar to you I thought it is expensive and I don't use it every day, so I went secondhand. I actually don't know how old mine is, multiple owners, but everything is repairable and it's pretty strong anyway. For me this is a reason to avoid the cheap Chinese ones, the established brands with spares backup hold value well so after buying something like CS100 you can sell it again a few years on, cost of ownership per year then starts to look good.
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I think M500 is more than that but I bought secondhand.
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Likewise M500 solid bit of kit, bigger engine at 24hp is one reason I went for one.
