Lucan

You don't need a licence if the coppice is <15cm DBH

As others have said leave the standing deadwood, when you start to her the woodpeckers it will be worth it. There are also many (including v.rare) species which only occupy standing deadwood, so don't do what I did when a youngster and go round kicking them over:blushing:

Although the reverse is also true, pick up a flyweight saw after a proper one and you feel like Hercules (albeit not for too long)

If you're felling for firewood remember that there will be a lot of crosscutting involved, would certainly want the bar length to be greater than the diameter of the tree for 90% of trunk length.

Funny you should say that, been using my new lightweight Christmas present (Fiskars x27) last 3 weeks, then went pick up my previous maul and fell flat on my face.

Not had any problem since I took it to the dealer for a tune up

I bought a Husqy 135 earlier this year for brashing, snedding and felling small stuff, but find myself now using it on larger and larger trees, remember you can fell up to 2.5x bar length once you've been taught how. 40cc for £180 and 2yr warrantly for non-pros is pretty hard deal to beat. The only issues I've had with it have been my own fault for sticking cheap fuel in it . However distance to local dealer was key as well.

Going back to increased competition. The FC and other bodies are actively encouraging more farmers and landowners to start managing their neglected woodlands and finance it through selling as firewood and other products. Benefits obviously the timber is free, yard/barn space is free, other costs (tractors, trailers, pickups, accountants, etc) are mostly paid for through the agricultural side and it also provides a revenue during the quieter winter months. Of course they are all perfectly entitled to do this. My question is if you have an area with twice as many people selling as there is demand, is it a case of survival of the fittest/cream rise to the top? or do they all just get 50% of sales needed and all go bust (apart from those who it is just a sideline)?

You will want to do your best to reduce the nettles as much as possible (some threads on here about it). Perhaps introduce some interesting ferns to compete with them. I find that sycamore is pretty shade tolerant so wouldn't be to concerned about it. The advantage of creating a deadwood pile is that it lasts longer but also you can position it in an optimum area (shaded and damp) which will be far better for the fungi and invertebrates. The good think about your own woodland is your not limited to the constraints, ie only native species approved by the FC. If you want to stick a weird Japanese tree in then you can, some of the best woodlands show the personalities of the owners. My favourite trees in my woodlands aren't just the old oaks but also the exotic ones my grandfather planted, inspired from his time in the far east and the stories associated with them.

Yeah I'd want to see how it behaved in the summer before any major decisions. In the meantime some of the straighter broadleaves could do with a prune, maybe create some deadwood piles aswell. For a neglected woodland looks like it could do with more of a shrub layer if anything, maybe some additional tree planting in sparse areas and the areas with little or no understory. Do you not have vehicle access through the gate in the second last photo?

Trees planted on leased land can be owned by the land owner, tenant or an agent depending on the specifics of the tenancy agreement. If there is no tenancy agreement for tree planting then I would imagine ownership rests with the land owner as the tenant is in violation of the original agreement which doesn't allow for tree planting? I don't think you can refer to trees as just another crop as surely you would be changing the land use (unless SRC/SRF maybe)? Again I'm no expert.

There is a version with English subtitles out there somewhere

If you pay the ecologist to collect data then any data is confidential and owned by you. There is no legal obligation to report rare species, pests or diseases. Some ecologists do have a clause that data can be released to 3rd parties but this is something to check. Anyway, If the wood is only 2 acres in size then it can't be much more than 30m from the centre to a woodland edge? I'd certainly go with the suggestion of the wheelbarrow. I do this occasionally (standard one contains about 0.1m3 of split wood) and you'll be surprised how much you can get out in a couple of hours. If the gradient/terrain allows I'd consider putting in a gate and clearing a ride (or track) across the middle with somewhere to turn at the end. This will open up possibilities in the future. Diversity is the key but if you are limited then oak, birch and willows harbour the most insect life (key for wildlife). I'd probably consider coppicing some of the sycamore as well. Instead of going on an ID course I'd recommend buying the Collins guide to British Trees, should cover everything you need.

If your new to woodland management then this is a good starting point So you own a woodland I would postpone any major felling till next year, in the meantime see how the wood behaves in all 4 seasons. This will help you understand what role/habitats each tree provides and supports. Also try to visit other nearby managed woods for ideas/inspiration. From what you say you can probably get your firewood from windblow and pruning alone. If it's remote maybe a hut/caravan onsite for woodworking and camping with family in the summer? Sounds a nice project

I think people need to start recognising the possibility that the last 2 winters could be the norm in future. I'm not saying we couldn't get winters like 08/09 and 09/10 again but they could not be for another 30yrs. Market forces such as climate change, inc competition, social changes, etc will force a lot to adapt and/or explore different revenues. You see this all the time in farming, fishing, rural estates, etc and it's normally those who are more forward thinking succeed.

Cheers, I know I'm over thinking it but don't want to cut 100 logs only to find there was a better way of doing it.

Can you stack them to season without snapping them? Also do they burn as well with large knots in the logs and if so would you want the knots at the top or bottom? Cheers

It's in the news as one of the new big trends for 2015, anyone ever made it or birch syrup? At £5/lt for water and up to £200/lt for syryp worth a punt:lol:

I use spruce in the kindling I sell, it has the lowest density when dry (most air) so lights easy and burns hot. Also you can get green wood to <20% in a week if cut small enough. I prefer Sitka as it is not as knotty as Norway. Any of the knotty stuff I cut to 2-3" diameter and sell to customers who have their own supply of hardwoods but need something to get the stove up to temperature. I try not to let anything go to waste.

6 acres of first thinning SS sounds like not a lot of timber, how much are you expecting to get out of it? Would imagine only a couple of days work so when factor in cost of low loader, site visits, have to make sure you cover your costs You can get pallet and some 3.1s out of first thinning but for the volume i'd put it all through as chip. I don't think many of the big boys would be interested in small volumes of SS so would take any offers given on here:thumbup:

From the other advert "All trees are standing and will be cut to order" and able to supply up to 100 tonnes. Presume this is all FC approved?

If it was dry I would bag it in large paper bags and sell to someone with a workshop stove.

Sounds like we need a "show us your dinner" thread

I've been told (by an unreliable source:laugh1:) that the Scandinavians put there last load in vertically (a la swedish candle). Therefor as the wood burns it collapses in on itself ensuring better/longer combustion.

Give it till the end of season, never know what will happen