TGB
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Everything posted by TGB
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As before_ 21LPX for both hard and softwood, (BPX for grubby stuff). But you have to keep it sharp. When the chain dulls, you sharpen it before becoming utterly blunt. Dull chains barely cut, blunt chains don't cut and a sharp chain is a joy to use. Just a touch up now and then is quicker than a full sharpen once in a blue moon.
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Ah, that's what's needed. A passionate but independent assessment.
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Life is grubby enough without stripping to the waist and wading through mud just for the hell of it.
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Oregon 21LPX for most stuff and BPX if you know you'll be cutting through lots of dirty wood.
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Three cows, one ewe and a goldfish in a bag of water, two half sucked toffees and thirty pounds of horse flesh.
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Ah... query answered. Thank you both.
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No miracle cures. What you need, is an elastic strap with Velcro closure. Something like this http://www.physioroom.com/product/Aircast_Pneumatic_Armband/2033/37869.html?gclid=CLrOkPqDi9ACFY9uGwodlrQJkg . Though can get them cheaper. Doesn't need to be expensive, just needs to do the job. Basically, the strap simulates the muscle being shortened, so the damaged portion is allowed to rest, while the Y damaged portion is still being in use. Healing time will vary but typically 3-6wks may be needed. Don't bother wearing it in bed or while at rest, (not working). Once it's healed, don't get rid of the strap, as undoubtedly there will be future flare ups. But these can be lessened and the heal time speeded up, as you'll recognise the symptoms early and not plough on hoping it'll get better on its own.
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Recently started looking after a small orchard, where a few of the trees had guards on, long after they should have been removed. Damage was mostly down to the trees starting to grow over the guards. With some build-up of rotted leaf matter. I just removed the guards and cleaned off the earth. None of the trees were badly damaged in this case. Perhaps you should clean the trees down around the guards. If the stems are bad, might as well take them out now; if they're not that bad, leave them and see what happens.
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What Stubby and Richie said both go. If you're not after speed, then the 435 should do fine. A query on your course_ what used to be CS30 & CS31, now 201, 202, & 203 covers felling of trees upto 380mm. You mention 200mm; which course did you do?
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If you need it to be uniform pieces, then plane it. But you don't really need it to be smooth on the outside. And on the inside, the comb won't be built down to the bottom or sides. Any small gaps will be sealed with propolis by the bees. If you want a smoother inside. Before the bees move in or before you introduce a colony, you could rub the inside with bees' wax, which will also encourage a colony to set up home. Also, rubbing or spaying around the entrance with essential oil of lemongrass, which seems to be fairly well matched to a bee pheromone and will also encourage bees to set up home.
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Whatever you choose - if you get through one file a year, it's not much point buying more than one at a time. Otherwise, just buy a box at a time. Having said that, just about any smooth flat file will do for the rakers.
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If I find myself near, say 15mls., I'll go by and get a few cans. Otherwise, I have quite a way to go. So I wait till I've got a reason to be nearish and pick up a 6mth. supply. Not got a problem with storage.
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I would also like to see more trees but if they already have the bracken...
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My thoughts exactly. Once you've got it, it takes money, money, time and money to get rid of it. Pigs are great in a small area but large scale... well you'd need a lot of pigs and a lot of fencing. As to it taking lots of machinery to get it to the end product. To produce wood pellets takes maybe the same. If they can make money from it then why not. But if it can only be because of subsidy, then I don't see much point.
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Sounds like a winner. The trick to protecting your hands when plastering with lime mortar or lime washing, is to apply barrier cream first, then wear washing-up gloves and you can wear rigger gloves over them if you wish. Before eating, strip the layers and have a good scrub with plenty of clean water. If your gloves break at any time. You have to strip the layers, was down with plenty of clean water. Then reapply barrier cream and fresh gloves Don't make the mistake of ignoring a cut in the gloves or splash on the skin. You don't feel anything for 10-15mins., then you can't stop the burning. Wear goggles and if you do get any in the eyes. Do not rub but do immediately wash with copious amounts of clean water or saline. Do seek medical attention if in any doubt.
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Traditional premix can degrade the fuel pipe and fuel seals over time. You have to replace them at some point but it shouldn't be a problem if you stay with the pump-premix. However, Aspen doesn't have the constituents that help to degrade these part. So when you swap to Aspen, you may find that you get fuel leaks.
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As John said - but now working. Thanks for the ongoing good work Steve.
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iPhone: • embedded link now working • You Tube link now working • link to eBay now working • link to third party company website now working
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I've been having the same thing. Links don't work from with threads and neither do embedded videos. But photos load and display ok.
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6" is about standard size to fit narrowboat stoves. Also, some of the cheap stove have small burn-boxes.
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Any chance of looking out an old map of the area? 40-50yrs. or older. Might be something the present owner doesn't know about. I've seen something similar many years ago over limestone caves. Where the voids beneath the surface, had almost breached the surface. It was and is, the kind of ground you didn't jump up and down on. There were/are small patches of peaty soil, where soil is less than one would wish for. You can stand in one place and be safe and a foot either side, you can easily push a walking stick & full arm's length into the ground. Sometimes the stick just goes in a few inches and suddenly there's nothing more. You pull the stick out and drop in a stone; you hear nothing for seconds, then there's the distant echoing sound of stone on rock. You sometimes see the forces training on the moors. You never see them over these areas.
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Know someone who used to have one of those B+D alligator loppers. Used it occasionally for a year before it ceased cutting. Motor was ok he said but it wouldn't cut. He'd never added chain oil or sharpened the chain and having not read the instructions, didn't know he had to or how to. Handed it over to a friend, who also hadn't read the instruction and also knew nothing about how a chainsaw functions. Said friend takes it to an unknown repair shop. Who took one look at the dim friend and announced the machine dead. Said they'd dispose of it for him. Save him the trouble of taking it home. The ex-owner told me all this too late. Probably only needed a b+c, (and some instruction on how to read instructions). Cost of machine at time approx. £85, cost of b+c approx. £22inc.
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Better make sure she never reads that one. Or you'll be on homemade bread and water.
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Surely, if he was a clown, he wouldn't be running. He'd be trying to catch it.
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Thank for the info.
