Mark_Skyland

It should be stamped on the bar but if it's the newish style 1/4 cs2511 it should be 60 drive links. You will either need the tiny sugihara chain or get a ms150 chain made up. Just make sure it is the .43 gauge as if it's a .50 it all be the oregon 91 px/Vxl chain. The last batch of cs2511 we received had reverted back to the.50 gauge for some reason!

Apologise for not including the 540I XP which the thread was about! The 540I XP should be available mid March, the T540I XP middle of Feb. There is some info about the top handle on the Husky UK site but nothing on the rear handle yet. Husqvarna Chainsaws T540i XP® WWW.HUSQVARNA.COM Husqvarna T540i XP is our most powerful battery-powered top-handle chainsaw, equivalent to a 40cc pro petrol saw... Here is a snippet of info from Husqvarna "Used with the newly released Husqvarna BLi200X (T540i XP®) or Husqvarna BLi300 (540I XP®) batteries, the new chainsaws have capabilities equivalent to professional 40cc class petrol chainsaws, making them ideal for tree removals and smaller felling tasks. With the completely redesigned and optimised system, power has been increased by more than 30 percent compared to previous Husqvarna battery chainsaws, opening up opportunities that previously have been exclusive to petrol chainsaws."

Nope it isnt a 340I there is a 540I XP and a top handle T540I XP, equivelant to a 40cc petrol! Husky were just keeping it under wraps until today. None in stock yet as we are still waiting and not many specs but a half decent pic of one. Husqvarna T540XP professional Chainsaw WWW.SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM <div><span style="text-decoration: underline; font-size: large;"><strong style="font-size: large;">Husqvarna T540I XP...

That's the one but also check for wear on the con rods, holes in the blades and the main gear as that can wear where it drives the con rods. Don't grease the gears too much as it will slow and put too much strain on the motor. The gearbox doesn't get filed like petrol machines. Probably little and often on the grease, might be the key to longer life.

You can try replacing the bracket that covers the rod as if that wears it allows the rod to jump out (think its about £12-15) and the rods as the end of them that fits into the blades wears. Unfortunately ive found out a couple of times now that the hole in the blades wear and need replacing which isnt a cheap fix.

Could be worth looking at the new Edelrid foot cruiser Foot Cruiser right | Ascender | Edelrid WWW.EDELRID.DE Sophisticated foot ascender that enables efficient and low-fatigue climbing on the rope. A pre-installed but removable... (when the're available, March I think) You can knock the rope lock down with your foot to pop the rope out, also doing a version to fit their climbing spikes.

Equivalent power to a 35cc petrol which is why its now called the T535 (exact same saw as the T536)

Cut just as well as a drive link too MattyF is spot on, the parts are interchangeable.

Glad to hear it works well with your setup. I have to mention the following, I have spoken to Petzl and as earlier stated in the ASAP user instructions it should be used with a fall arrest harness, I will leave that as it is. In regards to comments about the absorber deploying, it takes a lot of force and it is a progressive action, ie it doesnt drop you two metres as soon as it gets to xx amount of force. It wasnt designed for tree work but then a lot of the devices we use werent either. Unfortunately the two rope climbing system is here to stay and I hope it goes no further otherwise it will be full body fall arrest harnesses, CE Certified climbing systems only and the level of IRATA training that would kill most arb firms off.

That is a very good point. Some info from petzl about attachment points below. https://m.petzl.com/GB/en/Professional/Choice-of-harness-attachment-point-for-the-ASAP I will ask one of the petzl tech people but it does look like full body harness only.

I will give you a call as it requires an asap sober (energy absorber) to connect to your harness. There are two types, Standard sorber available in 20 or 40cm, I recommend the 40cm to keep the asap a bit more out of the way, or the sorber axess which allows rescue ie two person rescue with a max 250kg Petzl Asap'Sorber Axes WWW.SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM <p>The ASAP’ SORBER AXESS energy absorber may only be used with the ASAP... Petzl Asap'Sorber WWW.SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM <p>The ASAP’ SORBER energy absorber may only be used with an ASAP or ASAP...

Thanks. Will keep a look out tomorrow and see if we have any festive items to throw in

I dont know about more knowledge but a lot of the irata gear would be near useless, read, would be so cumbersome and tiring to use in tree work that the comparisons (that the HSE are making) between tree work and rope access can be seen as ridiculous. Last time I was climbing professionally was a bout 4-5 years ago, I only ever worked ddrt and I have never tried srt. What I would take from the irata side of things would be the petzl asap (the lock version) which is used as a backup device and in the right conditions can sort of be forgotten about. The device will follow you up and down the rope, to a fashion and then lock out in the case of a fall, a bit like a car seat belt. How well it will work in the tree is another thing as its a totally different environment than the side of a building or a roof top that the HSE are comparing our work site to. Trying to ascend on two ropes using a combination of the current tree work ascenders seems maybe not impossible but very close to say the least, well in a commercial environment anyway. Ive spent the last two days shouting at the kids while trying to put and keep the christmas deccos up hence my poor and not as I wanted full reply, and im feeling far too festive to engage in a full anti hse rant.

Me too! I would like to add a lot more to this thread but not at this time of night. It is a huge step back for the industry to say the least.

I can certainly relate to that, especially at this time of the year! Have had machines sitting in the workshop for 4 plus months, they will be soon be sold to recover costs, it will be interesting to see the outcome Hence why im changing our terms in the new year.

Hedge trimmers seem to be the first battery product to replace the petrol equivalent. Im not surprised tbh. I would use a battery hedge trimmer in a heartbeat compared to a petrol machine.

Although I am possibly biased the hendon ladders are brilliant. We used them when we still did tree work and it must be at least 99% of customers usually say "I wish I had bought these years ago"

There are a lot of fake plugs about, just like everything I suppose. I must have replaced a good couple of hundred ish plugs over the years and have never had a dodgy one. There are plenty of fake ones on eBay and the likes, hence the increase in issues I guess. I would ditch the 372 if it has a Chinese crank and cylinder, it isn't worth the time and cost sorting it out. Non oem parts are hit and miss at the best of times. Why on earth anyone buys them is a mystery to me! If a machine is worth repairing then it's worth repairing properly. Having said that I know quite a few people trust their lives on non traceable ppe so I guess there is always a market for cheap products.

I don't bother replacing those springs anymore, just use a pulley from the non easy start version. It replaces both pulleys and gets rid of the spring.

We all put a lot of effort in and then anyone can go along a buy this for less than £90, can cause just as much damage as the the husky/stihl equivalent. 26cc 10" Petrol Top Handle Topping Chainsaw - Free Bar Cover & More WWW.EBAY.CO.UK The Parker 26cc 10" petrol top handle topping chainsaw has a 10" blade, which makes it perfect for topping or trimming... I've just had a look at around 5 different listing for top handle saws on ebay, between them over a 1,000 units sold, thats a lot of Mr/Mrs homeowner adding to the HSE stats.

Its just because of the high number of accidents with them. Plus I guess in their eyes there isnt any reason why you need a top handle saw.

That would be too easy and they couldnt charge you for using a useless tool!

They arent doing you any favours, the more people that have an accident with a top handle saw the more the chance that the HSE will ban the sales of top handle saws.

Good info, never sheared a key yet so im afraid I will keep to the impact way until I do at my expense of course!

I always use an impact wrench and have never had an issue. Removed some clutches that required a massive amount of torque which would be very difficult to undue locking the piston up.