Mark_Skyland

I will give you a call as it requires an asap sober (energy absorber) to connect to your harness. There are two types, Standard sorber available in 20 or 40cm, I recommend the 40cm to keep the asap a bit more out of the way, or the sorber axess which allows rescue ie two person rescue with a max 250kg Petzl Asap'Sorber Axes WWW.SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM <p>The ASAP’ SORBER AXESS energy absorber may only be used with the ASAP... Petzl Asap'Sorber WWW.SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM <p>The ASAP’ SORBER energy absorber may only be used with an ASAP or ASAP...

Thanks. Will keep a look out tomorrow and see if we have any festive items to throw in

I dont know about more knowledge but a lot of the irata gear would be near useless, read, would be so cumbersome and tiring to use in tree work that the comparisons (that the HSE are making) between tree work and rope access can be seen as ridiculous. Last time I was climbing professionally was a bout 4-5 years ago, I only ever worked ddrt and I have never tried srt. What I would take from the irata side of things would be the petzl asap (the lock version) which is used as a backup device and in the right conditions can sort of be forgotten about. The device will follow you up and down the rope, to a fashion and then lock out in the case of a fall, a bit like a car seat belt. How well it will work in the tree is another thing as its a totally different environment than the side of a building or a roof top that the HSE are comparing our work site to. Trying to ascend on two ropes using a combination of the current tree work ascenders seems maybe not impossible but very close to say the least, well in a commercial environment anyway. Ive spent the last two days shouting at the kids while trying to put and keep the christmas deccos up hence my poor and not as I wanted full reply, and im feeling far too festive to engage in a full anti hse rant.

Me too! I would like to add a lot more to this thread but not at this time of night. It is a huge step back for the industry to say the least.

I can certainly relate to that, especially at this time of the year! Have had machines sitting in the workshop for 4 plus months, they will be soon be sold to recover costs, it will be interesting to see the outcome Hence why im changing our terms in the new year.

Hedge trimmers seem to be the first battery product to replace the petrol equivalent. Im not surprised tbh. I would use a battery hedge trimmer in a heartbeat compared to a petrol machine.

Although I am possibly biased the hendon ladders are brilliant. We used them when we still did tree work and it must be at least 99% of customers usually say "I wish I had bought these years ago"

There are a lot of fake plugs about, just like everything I suppose. I must have replaced a good couple of hundred ish plugs over the years and have never had a dodgy one. There are plenty of fake ones on eBay and the likes, hence the increase in issues I guess. I would ditch the 372 if it has a Chinese crank and cylinder, it isn't worth the time and cost sorting it out. Non oem parts are hit and miss at the best of times. Why on earth anyone buys them is a mystery to me! If a machine is worth repairing then it's worth repairing properly. Having said that I know quite a few people trust their lives on non traceable ppe so I guess there is always a market for cheap products.

I don't bother replacing those springs anymore, just use a pulley from the non easy start version. It replaces both pulleys and gets rid of the spring.

We all put a lot of effort in and then anyone can go along a buy this for less than £90, can cause just as much damage as the the husky/stihl equivalent. 26cc 10" Petrol Top Handle Topping Chainsaw - Free Bar Cover & More WWW.EBAY.CO.UK The Parker 26cc 10" petrol top handle topping chainsaw has a 10" blade, which makes it perfect for topping or trimming... I've just had a look at around 5 different listing for top handle saws on ebay, between them over a 1,000 units sold, thats a lot of Mr/Mrs homeowner adding to the HSE stats.

Its just because of the high number of accidents with them. Plus I guess in their eyes there isnt any reason why you need a top handle saw.

That would be too easy and they couldnt charge you for using a useless tool!

They arent doing you any favours, the more people that have an accident with a top handle saw the more the chance that the HSE will ban the sales of top handle saws.

Good info, never sheared a key yet so im afraid I will keep to the impact way until I do at my expense of course!

I always use an impact wrench and have never had an issue. Removed some clutches that required a massive amount of torque which would be very difficult to undue locking the piston up.

No, you need a ticket to but a new top handle saw no matter what the brand is. Well, unless you shop on eBay then you can but what you want. Unfortunately no dealer should be trying to sell you a new machine as it would be going against the manufactures selling policy. As stubby says it isn't the law and you or the dealer can't be fined/jailed but it is in place so we can continue selling top handled saws and pro tree surgeons can keep on using then r. If the system gets abused you can bet the hse and three other bodies who are keep to ban.top handles will raise their ugly head. They already have us in their sights forcing climbers to use an inferior two rope system that will cause more deaths than it saves and when they look at why that is I can foresee the ban hammer moving towards top handle saws. Use your instructors saw, keep an eye out for a good used machine which will cost you at least half of not more than the asking price of a new machine and good luck with the course.

A very big overdue thanks to outinthewood. Appreciate your custom and banter Really like your youtube vids and its always good to get feedback on products and of course our service!

Cheers Bob.

I think it would be best to follow the above advice and take it back to the dealers rather than start stripping it down and invalidating the warranty. The only other things I would check is the spark plug gap is 0.5mm, I have had a few stihl and husky machines that wouldnt idle during a pdi due to a small plug gap, that and the flywheel gap which should be .25-.30 mm, a large gap can cause the same issues.

There are loads of dealers aelling chainsaw two stroke oil online(ourselves included ) Try husqvarna low smoke or stihl hp super at the least they are between £10-£12 a litre. Better still husky xp or stihl ultra £15-£20 a litre. I wouldn't recommend a mineral oil if it's a modern pro saw.

Looks like a very, very sad day for treework I would be interested in seeing a video of someone ascending a tree from the ground using a two rope system using a work positioning harness without introducing slack into one of the systems. I'm trying to get my head around advancing on two prussik loops at the same time, or two zigzags, or two spiderjacks or two hitch climber setups etc. I think 'reasonably practical' would play an important part here. As for aerial rescue, I think that would now be redundant as reaching a casualty in time would be practically impossible. Rope access is a completely different practice to treework and both require different work practices, this needs to be established before we start to try and adapt or disregard both working practices/techniques. The HSE needs to recognise this from the start. You wouldn't expect that riding a courier bicycle and driving a fuel tanker are the same type of job and therefore the same safety restrictions should be put in place just because they are carried out in the same environment and look a bit the same. Someone is comparing apples to oranges for sure.

Sorry no, only used the battery chainsaws. Our site really needs updating in regards to the battery equipment, unfortunately Husqvarna thinks that it is a good idea to keep changing model and part numbers on a yearly basis to confuse and annoy not only dealers but end users too! E.g, the top handle T535i XP is exactly the same as last years model the T536LiXP.

If you are using the saw professionally then the savings of using non OEM parts isnt worth thinking about. It is a shot in the dark at best as the quality of copied parts is sketchy to say the least. I have seen more than enough machines with fake coils, carbs and plastics to realise it is a total waste of time and eventually money to try and save a few quid. You might get lucky but if you dont is it really worth it for the hassle?

The 20 in 520 means the machine has the power of a 20cc petrol machine, or there abouts.

That is something I hear a lot in regards to the 2511/ms150. As you say (and spud) it could be wise to go for a smaller saw first especially if you have a decent rear handle. If it was me I would still go for the larger top handle as you can do everything the smaller saws will do plus more. I just couldnt use the smaller saws on a decent take down. If you do go for the 540 make sure you use a bungee chainsaw strop and try not to drop it hard.