Mark_Skyland

Using a decent two stroke oil combined with a fast turn around of the fuel is a good thing and it's probably the reason why you don't have any issues. Old fuel and/or cheap oil arent a good mix. You should see or should I say smell some of the fuel I empty out of seldom used machines, it smells like paint stripper and looks like toilet water. Aspen or the equivalent certainly isn't for everyone but it has its place, mainly for homeowners. Some pro users won't use it as their main fuel mainly due to cost which is understandable but they do use it for machines like hedge trimmers. Not often used and can cause a fair bit of stinky bouncing back straight into your face emmisions. Btw, it's certainly not any kind of sales pitch at all as we make far more money on two stroke sales than we do on alkyate fuel and we can't ship it so it's shop sales only but I think it's worth looking into it for some users.

Type a are are a fair bit lighter but also less restrictive and a lot cooler in the summer. Type a are fine for ground use, they have the protection in the front of the legs. Type c are recommend for use whilst tree climbing for afaik only in the UK. Why it's required only in the UK only (I don't mind being corrected if our international cousins can elaborate)I'm not sure about.

No problem at all. It could be worth dropping him an email as he does work up and down the country. Either way I hope you get something sorted out.

I have had plenty of customers move over to alkylate fuel with no issues at all, they have all been husky or stihl machines though. The exception is probably 200t owners but that is more down to the poor design of the carb. I've seen plenty of cheap branded machines that haven't managed more than a year before the fuel line turns to jelly while using petrol! What I will say is dump your fuel can every now and then as I see a lot, and I mean a lot of water in the ranks of machines these days. The last one this week must have had at least 20cc of water in the tank it engine totally knackered and it wasn't worth fixing. £250 out of pocket for a new chainsaw. That would have bought him a lot of alkyate fuel, probably enough for 5 years worth of use. Whatever petrol or two stroke mix you use, don't use old fuel and check your tanks for contamination regularly. Everyone should give it a try, dump your fuel into a clear container, I bet most people will find that it looks cloudy. Leave it for an hour or so and then check it out. Look for a water bubble at the bottom.

I was going to suggest this guy but it's a fair drive to Glasgow. chainsaw carver for bespoke chainsaw sculpture and chainsaw carvings WWW.WISEWOOD.ORG.UK You never know though, he may have other work up your way. Not only a genuine nice guy but a hell of a good artist.

Yes I know all about that! There is the odd customer or two that finds that whatever they are looking for is out of stock, due to past experiences.

Sorry to disappiont but I think that the amount of Chinese machines imported into the UK blows Husqvarna and Stihls efforts and good intentions out of the water 1000 fold.

Are the stihl advance xflex that you own type c or a? The stihl x light, and I'm going to provide a link to my site for no other reason than to provide some further info are extremely light and breathable type a trousers. They certainly aren't as hard wearing as many other trousers but they may be suitable for you're requirements Stihl Advance X-Light Chainsaw Trousers -Type A SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM Made from ultra-light, extremely breathable AVERTIC™ pro lite cut protection developed... What I will suggest though is that you buy local, find a local supplier even if they aren't that local as its always better to try on before you buy.

I remember reading about that on here but it was quite awhile ago, Im surprised that they still manufacture them. I bet that they would sell quite well over here as quite a few people still prefer the old tech compared to the autotune. Maybe the emissions wouldn't pass in the UK.

Lets hope that the extra surcharge has been removed by then! The amount of prices rises that we have had this year across nearly all manufactures has been silly to say the least. I hope it settles down next year as its far too easy to sell something at cost price because we forgot to update the price.

Plenty over your way then I presume? People have just stopped bothering to ask when they will be available over here!

When using a saw it was always chainsaw boots and helmet with visor and ear muffs, wearing type a or c pants is where it changes a bit, for me anyway. Back in the day it was type a as that was all that was required, then it changed to type c and since nearly all my work was commercial type c it was no questions. They were horrible, probably twice as heavy and thicker than todays offerings. But we could still do the work required it just wasnt very comfortable. When on domestic I switched to type a during the summer. I would never have questioned not wearing chainsaw trousers though as I know from experience that that they have saved me from a serious injury and a fair few of my fellow workers.

Try Woolton logs,(the old dairy, woolton) he has a facebook account. I tried to post a link up but it didnt work for some reason. At least its an excuse to visit Woolton, quite nice around Christmas time and plenty of old pubs to drop into.

Its looking like its going to be 2023 for delivery but who knows, Santa may come early!

Yes you're right the pfanners arent the lightest but they are a good fit which helps. It is always worth finding the time to travel to try clothing on, especially boots, they must be the most returned item due to sizing and fit!

I also liked the Velcro on the extreme trousers, it certainly makes a difference to the fit. I never liked a belt as it got in the way when using a harness and I couldn't get on with braces. Its nice to get feedback on the robust trousers. We don't sell many pairs but a couple of customers always buy them, they do look tough.

If the Mrs has never bought a pair of chainsaw trousers then I suggest she find a local dealer and go and try them on. Sizing can be a headache for sure. In regards to being tough unfortunately you need to start looking at the thick end of the price scale, Pfanners gladiator and the extreme range are amongst the toughest trousers out there, extremely good quality but you do get what you pay for with those. Thats from customer feedback not personal use, I liked the husky technical extreme which are a good fit for me, very light and comfy but certainly not the hardest wearing.

I have seen a few of the older models through the workshop that have cracked that metal plate but none have snapped a con rod. There is definitely an issue somewhere for that to happen.

Its great to see that they are filtering through to dealers, not that we have had any yet! Its a good job that we have a few MS661's in stock.

The kerf will be narrower, only by .3mm but it will be narrower. Just imagine if you scale that drive link up to 5mm thick the kerf will be far wider. I dont know if the cutters on the 3690 chain are the same as the cutters on the 3639 chain but I guess that they are.

I would trying swapping parts over between the two machines to hopefully work out which component is faulty. With any luck you should get at least one running machine out of the two. I've had to replace throttle switches, main control boards and keypads but no motors yet. Not on the model you have, its mainly been long reach hedge cutters and strimmers.

£45.95 Inc the vat for the bar, postage should be £4.95 but it may be more of your in northern Scotland, Ireland etc. If you click on the link I posted add the 16" bar to your basket, go into your basket and then input your post code and it will show you the postage cost. If it is £4.95 postage it will drop to free if you spend £100 or over.

Well then, you didnt check out our web site advertised to the right----> 🙂 We do have one of those elusive 18" bars in stock here Stihl Guidebar Light 04 - 1.3mm / 0.325 SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM The Light 04 is the first STIHL guide bar model to feature this new name and innovative design. The new Light 04 features a... We do only have the one and you are right, no more until Feb at the earliest. I have put it out of stock for you and I can hold it until the weekend if you still want it. It's best to give us a call on 0151 345 9971 or drop us an email [email protected] as you wont be able to purchase it direct from the site (due to me putting it out of stock) or you can PM me and I will restock it for you. As supplies have been so poor over the last 3 years we have live stock levels on our web site, we do get caught out now and again but very, very rarely, mainly due to inputting the wrong stock level or in some unfortunate cases due to light fingered shoppers! What we definitely don't do is deliberately advertise products as in stock when they aren't. That wasn't usually a problem in the past as most of us dealers could get stock next day from the suppliers but that has well and truly gone out of the window as I'm sure most people who order online will have found out. From what I hear it wont get much better for at least the next 6 months or so. For the end user Its always worth having a bit of extra stock of the main consumables, chains, files, oils etc, they are always required and its no good having to mess about trying to get hold of a chain or a pack of files for the next job. Another couple of items that have been really bad to get hold of are batteries and chargers, I know most people don't want a second charger but these have been hard to get hold of over the last year or so and some batteries are still out of stock for at least 3-4 months. They are brand specific so there is no chance of getting something that 'will do the job for now' If you don't need the bar could you also please let me know. Mark

It's always worth checking the terminals on the saw and the battery. They can be damaged/dirty from bits of chip, it's a simple fix that I have came across a coupe of times.

Sounds like a bit of a nightmare. I would remove the starter cover and lock the flywheel, holding it will probably do. Then try twisting the drum backwards and forwards while pulling on it. I've had the odd seized bearings over the years but they come off in the end with a bit of brute force. The worm wheel may have melted which could be causing the problem.