Mark_Skyland

Well I've hit a brick wall with this one. A dreaded intermittent fault. The machine is less than a year old and only has a round 6 hours of use. Basically the saws runs really strong but all of a sudden it will run like the choke is on, overfueling, spluttering and wont idle. It can then after a couple of starts and a bit of a rev run fine. First off changed the spark plug, solenoid, performed a reset along with a tank, filter clean etc which I thought fixed it as it ran good for me but then failed again with customer. Next time around it was a carb carb inspection, vac/pressure test, fuel line and carb pressure test, loads of compression but I did pull the exhaust to find nothing but a clean looking piston. Checked all wires and connectors HT lead spark plug boot but found nothing. It was running fine and it and I couldn't get it run poorly. Customer took it away and then came back with it a week or so later! It was running well for most of the day he used it but when he got back to the yard to cut up some timber it started playing up again. I had to buy the stihl diagnostics kit and after getting it all set up it came up with no faults as the machine was running fine again. It has to be the coil or the carb but I thought I would throw this out there in case anyone has a better idea or has seen this issue before. Any help would be very much appreciated.

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I haven't used the Husqvarna grease as suggested but stihl recommend their hedge trimmer grease. Only use a tiny bit on all of the contact points.

Have you tried to richen the low and high needles? Some of the cheap chainsaws run garbage as they are too lean. If the check valve is gone they can't usually be replaced, well not easily and it mainly affects the high speed side or when throttling up, tick over is usually ok.

Good advice from the above. The clutch springs may be worn or snapped. Take the cover off and check that the drum rotates easily with no resistance if it doesn't turn easily you have something binding it to the shaft, dodgy bearing or cord etc stayed around the shaft. Check the three clutch springs are in place and not snapped. Check that the brake band isn't damaged and getting caught in the drum. If everything looks ok then you well have to take the clutch off and check the springs for wear. Replace all three springs even if only one looks damaged or worn. The clutch can also wear where the springs locate onto it, they start to cut a groove into the clutch resulting in less tension. I guess that the chain spins with the chain brake off when the saw is at idle?

I had to replace a motor on 161 under warranty, the magnets had came loose iirc.

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Hi Paul Thanks for the feedback. I set it to factory settings the same as you and it ran well, I leaned the H a little probably only 1/8 of a turn. It was set far too lean from the factory.

There is a small cover missing, we have some in stock here, Cover - Stihl MS 201 TC-M SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM Cover for the crankcase for the Stihl MS201 TC-M top handle chainsaw. Genuine Stihl part... The part number is 11450211701 , your local dealer should be able to get it in which will save you £5 on postage for a £2 item.

Thanks for the feedback and the offer. I've got done on order with Husqvarna plus the pacman style screwdriver seems to be doing the job for now. How did you get on tuning the saw?

I'll order some of the new screwdrivers in. I had a quick look today and managed to adjust the carb using a cheapo ebay screwdriver i night as a set, it is a plain round profile with a little lump on one side. I only had a quick run up of the saw which needed a richen on the high screw.

It is now exl, I haven't heard any negative feedback about it tbh. It is still a full chisel profile.

Thats the same issue I had. Most machines do the above straight out of the box but usually once they have had a few revs and a bit of fuel through the carb they run OK but you do get more than the the odd machine that needs a bit of tuning.

Thanks. I'll have to order one although Im loath to buy these tools. Bleedin thing should just work straight out of the box.

I've never had an issue with a petrol machine using them in the rain, the finish of the cut on hedge might be a different story though. As already mentioned make sure you spray the cutter bar with wd40, silicone spray or the manufactures recommend lubricant as the blades can rust and stick. I would also store the machine with the blade pointing down so no water runs down the blades and into the gearbox. Oh, and grease the gearbox more often, more often than most people do, which is usually a few weeks after they start making a clunking noise!

There is an epoxy for fixing plastic fuel tanks. I've never tried it but since so many vehicles now use plastic tanks I guess it must work.

I found the same issue while trying to pdi a 435 that just wouldn't run properly. I found no mention of a new tool so I gave up and it's sitting on the workbench gathering dust

I wasn't having a dig at you I was just saying don't worry about which is the best oil, just use a decent one, mix it correctly and don't let it hang about for too long IMO. I think it's a good thing to bring these subjects up even if they have been gone over in the past as you never know what someone else can bring to the table or what new information and/or new products are available.

There have been more than a few 'which oil is the best' topics over the years. I wouldn't get hung up on it tbh. If you're using a semi synthetic be it Stihl, Husqvarna or another reputable brand then I don't think you can go wrong. Just mix it as per the instructions and more importantly don't have it sitting about for more than about a month.

If your fuel pipes are all on the right way around, the intake manifold is fitted correctly and isnt split then it could be the little white plastic insert is missing from the intake manifold. It is this piece Collar 3- Echo CS-2511TES SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM Replacement Collar 3 to fit the bellows intake for the chain brake for the Echo CS2511TES chainsaws. FITS MODELS... It keeps the impulse hole open, which is what operates the fuel pump inside the carb. If you are giving it a good pull over with the choke on and the plug is bone dry you need to check those parts and and maybe strip the carb. Just check the fuel pipe from the primer bulb to the carb isnt pinched i.e routed the wrong way.

Have you checked to make sure that it isnt something simple like the HT lead shorting out? Ive seen it on a few of the big husky saws, and some of the smaller ones, and some of the strimmers.

As spud says that is a bit of a mess. The 260 is a good saw and since you're looking at £700+ plus to replace it it probably is worthy of a repair imo. Just out of interest, has anyone had any luck in welding chainsaw crankcase's?

Have a check of the metering side of the carb, the cover has four screws. Pull the cover off and see if it's full of fine sawdust. I've seen this before and the sawdust was making it over fuel.

If you don't mind, let me know your thoughts on using the 300. We've had a few a people who have side stepped the big battery due to balance of the machine. There is a new version of the 540I due out this year along with the mk3 petrol version. This year being 2025, obviously

We also get the odd diva flounce into the shop from time to time. I can't say anything as I probably do use the word mate far too often.