Mark_Skyland

Thanks .:) EGR valve, that's the one. Block up and cause loads of issues, I had that problem on an old Peugeot of mine, took a lot of scrapping to sort it out. It also had a dodgy injector that refused to come out, I ran it for awhile with the bolts loose which sorted it out. Theres plenty of you tube videos of people trying to remove stuck injectors!

Oil tanks, often neglected and tbh they dont usually cause too many issues but you would be surprised at how much gunk they can harbour. They are easiest to clean out after the saw has been ran for awhile as i warms the oil up so it pours out quicker and removes more gunk. Remove your oil cap and let the saw sit over a container, big plastic jugs work well. once its more or less drained out us an air line with a rag over the plug hole to blast the bits out, an other technique is to fill it with old fuel, swill it about pour out and repeat. Check the state of the oil filter, most Stihls have a very basic plastic filter that doesn't usually block but it can let a lot of bits of sawdust through, Husky filters are usually brass and can break apart and block the oil pipe. Echo's have a proper filter but they clog quicker. Another thing to check is the oil tank breather vent, usually under a metal plate on the huskys and hidden behind the plastic guide rail on stihls. Differnt place son echos but usually underneath the starter cover. They let air in but stop oil coming out. If they block up it will create a vacuum in the oil tank and result in no oil to the bar. IMO most oiling issues are caused by a worn drive or in the case with Stihls a worn or damaged worm driver, if you want to call it that. Its the metal piece that connects the worm to the clutch drum pictured here Worm Gear - Stihl 1121 640 7111 SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM Replacement worm gear for the Stihl chainsaws listed below. FITS CHAINSAW MODELS 026, 260, MS 261 OEM 11216407111 GENUINE STIHL PART YES MANUAL Also dont forget to clean the oil hole out in the bar. If your chain isnt getting the right amount of oil it will cause plenty of cutting problems. Last thought on this, oil pumps rarely fail, if you have tried the above and nothing helps and your oil pump has an adjuster try turning the adjuster back and forth as they can stick. Oil pumps are usually pricey, some not far off the £100 mark!

Sorry, no idea on what the problem could be. I would go down the usual service route first, change the oil and filter, fuel filter etc although you've already done that one. It could be a coincidence as I wouldn't have thought the fuel would cause it but there has been a few situations in the past when a garage has had a dodgy batch of fuel and messed up a lot of vehicles. Lots of diesels have a recirculating exhaust emission valve that can stick, I cant remember the exact name of it but its something that does cause issues.

Your right, it is another option but most pro users wont go for alkylate fuel.

Check your fuel. Most of the machines that come into the workshop have a lot of water in the fuel, woodchip, sawdust bits of old rubber and other contaminants. Its worth dumping your fuel tank into a clean plastic jug, they only cost a pound or two from the supermarket and checking it out. It should be clear, now it may be blue red, yellow etc depending on the colour of your two stroke oil but it shouldn't be cloudy, if it is its got water in it. Let it settle and you will see a bubble of water at the bottom, you can just pour off the decent fuel and bin the dirty fuel. Pour the clean fuel back into the tank, swill it about and dump it into the jug again. Do this a couple of times to clean the tank out. Make sure you do this with the fuel can, jerry can that you store your fuel in when its getting time to refill it. I have seen machines that have around 15-20% of water in the fuel tank, its a lot more common now with the increase of ethanol in pump fuel. Using super unleaded helps solve the issue but its still worth doing from time to time.

Indeed, no need to run a new saw on tickover, in fact it does more damage than good. Run a saw like it should be ran just dont let it over rev.

Thanks for setting this up Steve. Im going to use this sub forum to post a few tips I've learnt over the years to hopefully help others look after their machines correctly and efficiently. Some topics will be machine specific and others just general advice. I would appreciate it if others could add to the discussion and also point out things ive missed, not explained correctly or maybe that there is a better way of doing things than my way etc.

Green solenoid, the latest fuel filter, they are orange, a couple of brake bands, top handle frame, air filter cover, if anyone has one that is cracked or damaged replace it asap as it stops the air filter from sealing and you will get a lot of crap going into the engine, and some av's for the side handle at the bottom where it attaches to the crankcase should more or less do it

Spud beat me to it.

Stihl did an upgrade kit for the non mtronic 201, i dont think they did it for the mtronic version. If they do then it will be much cheaper than buying the individual parts.

I do know that the replacement for the black solenoid is the green solenoid. I think the version 3 mtronic is for the 462, 661 etc, im not sure about the 201 but to upgrade yours to the latest version may require a coil, flywheel and possibly a carb swap. TBH, I dont think that you would notice much of a difference in power. If your saw is running well I would just do the usual fuel filter, air filter and spark plug renew. You could swap the solenoid as a precaution as I think they they are more prone to wear or just swap it if and when the saw starts to play up.

Excellent news. Its good to hear that your saw is up and running well. They must be the best small top handle on the market ATM.

Luckily for me I wasnt a husky dealer at the time.

If its been a couple of months worth of use then I would presume the initial setup was OK. Make sure your air filter is clean, this is very imprtant on these machines, split it and clean it out properly with carb/ brake cleaner. Check the fuel pipe isnt split at the end where it goes into the fuel filter. Check your spark plug is good and tight. Basic carb settings are around 2 1/2 turns out on the low and high, tweak them from there/

Was that aimed at me?

Thats never happened to me......😗 Good to hear it was working correctly though.

I would be interested to see a video as this isn't an issue I've came accross before.

Around £15-20, maybe. You need the serial number from the coil to match it to the carb. That is why we dont sell autotune carbs online. The dealer you bought it from deserves a bit of a slap but looking online there are loads of people selling autotune carbs with no info that they wont work properly without a dealers bit of help.

Did you install the carb yourself as it needs connecting to the husky computer to install firmware?

Go for the 661 over the 500.

As GTS says. 10 inch Stihl 1/4" bar and a 57 drive link 1/4" chain.

Ive seen this on a few husky machines while carrying out a pdi. Usually it sorts itself out if you leave it for a day or so with fuel in the tank and pull it over a million or so times. I dont know what the problem is, collapsed fuel pipe or something sticking in the carb.

That's the truth. It doesn't matter what the brand or whether its petrol or battery all the long reach hedge trimmers have gearbox issues. The bearings just aren't up to the job. Once the bearings start to go the gears get destroyed in no time. Grease the gearbox more than you think you need to and store the machine so if its wet the water won't run down the pole or blades and into the gearbox.

I was just about to say the same thing. As spud says if it fits in the bore it should fit the piston.

Did you check the piston ring end gap? They can wear fairly quickly which affects tick over. If you strip a machine down to the piston and cylinder its nearly always worth replacing the piston rings as they are fairly cheap.