Mark_Skyland

Every echo dealer can source the standard 1/4" cs2511, including, funnily enough us. But, we are also out of stock. We had half a dozen come in the other week but they were already sold. There is a supply issue atm so its a few more weeks before stock comes back into the UK.

You just buy the saw with a 1/4" bar and chain as opposed to the 3/8".

If echo sorted out the 362 they could take over the top handle saw market. My guess is that its an emission issue. I dont know how it works but no 25cc machine that i know of has an electronic carb so I presume they can bypass some legislation that the 35/40cc machines cant.

They may not be a husky dealer and have to pay top price for parts but even then its extreme. Did you do anything with the saw or is it still in a box in bits? Seems a waste if it is.

That looked good but it seems that you cant get them in the UK anymore. The start system on the br800 is to say the least a complicated setup! Ive only had two in for repair, one was was because the customer thought it was a four stroke and put neat petrol in it. The other was a starter issue. The starter was jamming open, I couldnt see any issue apart from a clean and grease and it seems to be working OK up to now.

As a sort of quick leak test I use brake cleaner fitted with a d40 smart straw (this thing WD-40 Smart Straw 450ml | Toolstation WWW.TOOLSTATION.COM All the benefits of the original WD-40 formula, but with a Smart Straw for precision application. Simply flip the straw up for a narrow stream or fold it down for a regular wide spray... and spray it around the intake boot impulse pipe area. You only need to spray a little, if there is a leak the engine will die. You have to make sure none of the spray is going into the carb, although with a little care you can use it to detect carb leaks. The wd40 will probably act the same as brake cleaner but I use a lot of brake cleaner and I fit them with that straw. Hmmm, maybe I should make some arb saw cleaner, smart straw plus brake cleaner. Yours for only £75.95 a can. Or buy two for £151.90 Bargain.

Every shop customer has said that the cs2511 is their go to saw. Most bought it for pruning work but then find out they are using it for section fells and the 201 540 gets moved to the back of the queue. As Mr Bolam said get the 10" 1/4" pitch setup or go for the stihl ms151 bar and chain setup. The bigger cs362 is very reliable but it hasnt got the power and speed of the 201 or 540 and it does feel more bulky although it's slightly lighter.

Its been a long time since I've climbed but that certainly brought back memories! Most of my interactions were killing the thing but sometimes it was just a deadwood and a reduction so not all bad.

Check the wiring first and of course the off switch, if something is shorting out it will stop the spark. Its about £10 for the wiring harness and £100 for the coil. If the rest of the machine is in good condition, loads of compression, no scores on the piston then its definitely worth fixing imo.

You really need to check for air leaks as holding onto a high idle is a good sign that something isn't right. Unless you have a few tools to block off the carb, exhaust and have a pressure tester you need to at least check manifold pipes, impulse pipes and check all fuel lines. If it is till doing it get it pressure tested as its a good few quid to replace a piston and cylinder.

Some little trick ive used for a while since you dont need to start the saw up if you want to check for oil flow and you have an air compressor handy just spin the drum up with a blow gun pointed at the sprocket splines/rim. No chance of a clutch explosion using this method. Still didnt help me solve an oiling issue on a t540i though!

Is the saw still running well and could you see a noticeable difference after the rest?

It's good to hear that you've got it running. It is worth using the original carb if you can get it sorted.

It looks like you've replaced a lot of parts. Is the piston and cylinder kit, and ignition coil oem? Have you tried using the old carb as aftermarket ones are hit and miss at best. You also need to make sure the basics are good, fuel line is good with no leaks plus the fuel filter is good. Spark plug is not a fake ngk as ive seen a few of them which wont spark properly under load. Fuel filter is sitting at the bottom of the tank, sounds silly but Ive fixed a few machines where the filter was jammed up at the top of the tank.

Attached is the only instruction manual for the ms661. You need to do the 90sec reset. This explains how to do it. How To Perform An M-Tronic Reset | STIHL Blog BLOG.STIHL.CO.UK STIHL M-Tronic machines are designed to perform at their best at all times, but they sometimes need a reset. Find out when and how to reset them here. MS661.pdf

Yes, I doubt the chain oil would stay in there for long at all. Some of the grease starts to run out not long after you grease them, loads comes out when doing a pdi. Just to clarify, 99% of the hedge trimmers in the workshop are long reach ones, they really suffer from lack of grease. Its not just that the bearings wear out from lack of grease its water contamination rusting them up. No grease to protect the bearings plus water causes rust. I think the way people store the machines also makes a big difference, if its wet and you store the machine hanging from the powerhead then all the water on the drive tube will run into the bearings. Battery machines are even worse as they have a minimal amount of grease to start off with and a lot of water and debris end up right inside the gearbox. They can easily cost a lot of money to repair not just to replace bearings but conrods soon wear out the locating hole in the blades and they are the best part of £110 to replace, the blades that is, the bearings and the conrods might cost £60 ish. If you also wear out the main cam it can soon become a right off.

You may be on to something there. At this time of the year my workshop is full with stihl long reach trimmers with goosed gearboxes. For reference sake, there are two points to grease on all, maybe not all but most articulated hedge trimmers. The main gearbox and the one that no one does which costs them a lot of money is on top of the head, the bit that doesn't move. These get neglected and contaminated with water.

If you're local to me please don't being it in for repair. I've had a few machines in that have had used engine oil for chain oil. They either get picked up without me looking at them or get binned. The next down the line is veg oil machines!

Ruthless price! What were they selling new saws at!

Which oil or grease, tbh whatever you have to hand, chain oil is good enough ime. Most of the time they get a bit of a splat of bar oil anyway. What I usually do to install clutch springs is the hold the clutch down with my palm and use long nose pliers or a thin screwdriver to lever the spring against my thumb. The spring either pops into place or just hangs on the drum in which case you just slap it into place. Always refer to the manufactures directions, instructions or recommendations, etc, etc......

It has no clutch, the drive is taken directly from the motor. You're correct that the drum is only used for the brake band as in most battery machines. The only saw that I have seen that has a clutch is the Husqvarna T542i

Cheers for the feedback Steve. You're right it does take up too much space. I'll pass the info on and hopefully we can improve the look.

Im sure that 'everyone' has visited our site lately and noticed the big change to the layout. If for some crazy reason that you haven't please have a look and if anyone wants to give feedback, good or bad it would be very much appreciated. It was updated a couple of weeks go and we have found several issues, missing brands and categories etc which have been sorted or are in the process but its easy to miss things so if the Arbtalk community could cast their eyes over it it would help a lot. Skyland Equipment - Arborist & Rope Access Supplies SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM Suppliers of arborist and rope access equipment. We supply chainsaws, PPE, climbing ropes, harnesses, carabiners from Petzl, Stihl, Husqvarna and more. Thanks for looking.

Remove the circlip and washer holding the clutch drum in place and check that nothing has gotten under there jamming things up. Depending on which type of bar you have check the nose sprocket runs freely and that the chain will move around the bar without any resistance.

As previously suggested clean out the gearbox and re grease, check that the blades aren't sticking or binding i.e. build up of resin or bent teeth catching on each other. Check that the bearings in the gearbox are OK I've replaced quite a few as they can rust up. Also check underneath the washers that hold the blades together as you can get a build up of crap which restricts the movement of the blades. The gearbox needs to move really easily.