Mark_Skyland

This is the part number for the s119D 1139 120 0601 As long as the throttle linkage looks the same it should be OK. The differences are usually a change of throttle cable hence the fittings may be different or the H and L screws, limiters caps, type of tuning screwdriver required etc. As above, rowencarbs are really good and will be able to help you out.

Try chainsawbars.co.uk. Rob will make 60dl loops up.

Definitely check with the warranty details if doing it yourself.

I was thinking that a worn drum might 'allow' the clutch to explode. The clutches ive had in that have cracked have been contained by the drum so no big drama. Sounds nasty Mr Newton, your reactions must be just too fast! When your old like me you would just watch it spin off and disappear. Although I wont go into that as the last time I mentioned it I got told off. As Mr Bolam said the stihl bar and chain setup is really popular on the 2511. When I get a chance we will start selling the saw with that setup. Especially since the price of a new echo 1/4" bar is around the £70 mark.

Plenty of good advice above. The Honda doesn't look too expensive at all. I would replace the engine rather than trying to get it repaired unless you know a decent mechanic but im sure that the kohler parts will still be available. You may need to check the pulley that connects the engine to the cutting disk and I'm not sure how the hydraulics work on those machines but I'm sure timberwolf or a timberwolf dealer can advise you. I've replaced engines on a few chippers and stump grinders in the past, it isnt that difficult to get it done.

I've seen a couple of really knackered clutches that have split but none have exploded. Usually the clutch springs weaken or snap which causes the chain to turn at idle with the chain brake off, the engine dies at idle with the chain break on or they get hard to start. If you do have a broken clutch spring replace all of them at the same time, don't skimp on replacing just the one. The stihl 150/151 200/201 are prone to wear on the clutch where the springs attach to it. If you can see a bit of a grove in the locating hole then it may be time to replace the clutch. You will find out that if you replace the springs and they dont last very long then the clutch is probably on the way out. One last thing, whether its stihl or husky make sure you get the correct springs as they both have a habit of updating the clutch mechanism which usually requires different springs, they can look the same but they may have 1 more or 1 less coil on the spring.

I suggest contacting the dealer you bought it from. It may be out of warranty but all PPE manufactures want feedback if there is an issue with one of their products.

Good find, I hope the OP has this sorted out now.

I think that you need these screws. V805-000240 We sell the spikes with the screws but they only come as a package.

If the check valve is knackered then its usually a new carb on the cards.

Whatever lube you're using just apply it sparingly.

Have you managed to sort out the problem?

This is a maintenance doc from Petzl. Looks like wd40 is a no no, machine oil or graphite powder is the recommended lubricant for metal hardware. From what I've heard graphite powder is a really good lubricant you just need to puff it on, less is more. Too much and it clogs things up. entretien-assureurs-descendeurs_EN.pdf

DVS_STIHL_ZBA_ZRA_RA_737_00_01_01_ZRA_01_01.pdf No pic sorry but I hope this helps, page 77

If it needs a cylinder and piston then I would advise to put that money towards a new saw. Changing the crank gasket wont cost much more money but it will take a fair bit more time. You need to work out why it needs a new cylinder, if its a case of poor fuel then no problem but I would have performed a pressure test in to rule out crank seals/bearings that may have caused the problem. If you do try some epoxy instead of a new gasket which I wouldnt do, not with the cost of a new cylinder then you probably need to put some kind of heat shield under the exhaust as I would suspect the heat from the exhaust would soon damage the epoxy.

A guy I used to subby to had a bc1000. It wasnt used for big timber very often but it was great on brash. You hardly ever had to sned it up just chuck it in and forget about it. It was a big heavy lump of a machine and it cost more than a few shillings in repairs over the years but that was down to lack of maintenance IMO. IIRC it was a letter box feed so more like 18 x 12". It was nearly 20 years ago mind so I might be wrong on that one.

Here's an decent example, 2020 bg56 in today. Poor starting and running, dying on tick over. It ran ok ish on full throttle. You cant really tell just by looking at the gasket... You need to hold it up to a light

Well it is the season and the blowers are in good use now. Ive seen plenty of fairly new hand helds with holes in the pump diaphragm, its the thin plastic thing in the carb that looks like this If your machine is pouring fuel into the engine or the primer pump isnt drawing fuel through then it may have a hole in it.

Not in my shop it isnt. Some pros use it for certain machines, hedge trimmers etc but most cant justify the price when it comes to big saws.

I remember trying to buy one of those chains for a customer when we were a Stihl sub dealer. You basically needed a letter from God to purchase one as they can more or less cut an ATM out of a wall. You can probably buy them on amazon now.

Thanks .:) EGR valve, that's the one. Block up and cause loads of issues, I had that problem on an old Peugeot of mine, took a lot of scrapping to sort it out. It also had a dodgy injector that refused to come out, I ran it for awhile with the bolts loose which sorted it out. Theres plenty of you tube videos of people trying to remove stuck injectors!

Oil tanks, often neglected and tbh they dont usually cause too many issues but you would be surprised at how much gunk they can harbour. They are easiest to clean out after the saw has been ran for awhile as i warms the oil up so it pours out quicker and removes more gunk. Remove your oil cap and let the saw sit over a container, big plastic jugs work well. once its more or less drained out us an air line with a rag over the plug hole to blast the bits out, an other technique is to fill it with old fuel, swill it about pour out and repeat. Check the state of the oil filter, most Stihls have a very basic plastic filter that doesn't usually block but it can let a lot of bits of sawdust through, Husky filters are usually brass and can break apart and block the oil pipe. Echo's have a proper filter but they clog quicker. Another thing to check is the oil tank breather vent, usually under a metal plate on the huskys and hidden behind the plastic guide rail on stihls. Differnt place son echos but usually underneath the starter cover. They let air in but stop oil coming out. If they block up it will create a vacuum in the oil tank and result in no oil to the bar. IMO most oiling issues are caused by a worn drive or in the case with Stihls a worn or damaged worm driver, if you want to call it that. Its the metal piece that connects the worm to the clutch drum pictured here Worm Gear - Stihl 1121 640 7111 SKYLANDEQUIPMENT.COM Replacement worm gear for the Stihl chainsaws listed below. FITS CHAINSAW MODELS 026, 260, MS 261 OEM 11216407111 GENUINE STIHL PART YES MANUAL Also dont forget to clean the oil hole out in the bar. If your chain isnt getting the right amount of oil it will cause plenty of cutting problems. Last thought on this, oil pumps rarely fail, if you have tried the above and nothing helps and your oil pump has an adjuster try turning the adjuster back and forth as they can stick. Oil pumps are usually pricey, some not far off the £100 mark!

Sorry, no idea on what the problem could be. I would go down the usual service route first, change the oil and filter, fuel filter etc although you've already done that one. It could be a coincidence as I wouldn't have thought the fuel would cause it but there has been a few situations in the past when a garage has had a dodgy batch of fuel and messed up a lot of vehicles. Lots of diesels have a recirculating exhaust emission valve that can stick, I cant remember the exact name of it but its something that does cause issues.

Your right, it is another option but most pro users wont go for alkylate fuel.

Check your fuel. Most of the machines that come into the workshop have a lot of water in the fuel, woodchip, sawdust bits of old rubber and other contaminants. Its worth dumping your fuel tank into a clean plastic jug, they only cost a pound or two from the supermarket and checking it out. It should be clear, now it may be blue red, yellow etc depending on the colour of your two stroke oil but it shouldn't be cloudy, if it is its got water in it. Let it settle and you will see a bubble of water at the bottom, you can just pour off the decent fuel and bin the dirty fuel. Pour the clean fuel back into the tank, swill it about and dump it into the jug again. Do this a couple of times to clean the tank out. Make sure you do this with the fuel can, jerry can that you store your fuel in when its getting time to refill it. I have seen machines that have around 15-20% of water in the fuel tank, its a lot more common now with the increase of ethanol in pump fuel. Using super unleaded helps solve the issue but its still worth doing from time to time.