Mark_Skyland
-
Posts
1,161 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by Mark_Skyland
-
Husky sales out number Oregon at least two to one, the best seller is the 80cm husky lever.
-
You would be better off making your own than buying those tbh. We have came across those before and if you read the reviews of the product it is poor to say the least. Another £20 or so will get you a husky or Oregon one that should last you the best part of twentys years if you don't lose it. I know it sounds like a sales pitch from me but best not to waste your hard earned unless it is for very light use.
-
Definitely worth taking note about the poles. The recommended (only type that should be used) are reinforced fibreglass, the standard fibreglass poles can shatter easily causing major injuries.
-
I have never tried the green teeth but we did swap to the yellow jackets which were far better than the standard ones on our vermeer 252. Lasted longer and far easier to change plus being able to just loosen the bolt a bit and then turn them 180 degrees was great. We and through a lot of teeth and I don't think I ever changed the pockets, the nut on the teeth rounded off a bit eventually but by then the teeth needed replacing anyway.
-
We have to re tune the carb on every 236, 135 and 435 we sell as the"factory" settings are all over the shop, I don't think two saws have the same settings out of the box! We always offer a free re tune after the saw has had a few tank fulls of juice through it as there can be the odd saw that benefits from it. Glad you have it sorted. We have had to sort out many a saw that has been sold straight out of the box with no pdi what so ever.
-
I'm fairly sure mail order isnt an issue with parts, but chainsaws can not be shipped through the mail as its an in shop hand over policy only no matter on who the customer is domestic, or professional.
-
The manufactures do their bit by individually marking each machine, they also link the sale of that machine to the dealer. It's then up to the end user to make a record of the a serial number and maybe mark the saw a few times in different places. The best thing to then do is register it with Arbsafe, plus any other equipment you have as it's free and the police use it to check for recovered items. Although we register all sold machines with the manufacture I wouldn't just rely on that as we can make mistakes.
-
It will be interesting to follow this thread as ime I dont think you can beat a 560.
-
I think I have binned all our ones but I will have a look next week. I dont envy trying to repair that but it is a fair cost to replace the case as you have to buy both sides and it does really need a few specialist/homemade tools to disassemble and rebuild the crankcase. You need to attach a post with an internal thread, I dont think it will be that easy to sort out.
-
PM sent.
-
Don't worry we aren't planning any black Friday deals. Just reasonable prices and items that we actually stock. Unless you want to buy a big flat screen tv then my mate can sort you out.
-
As far as I know it's the 3 big 3 series saws going. Nothing in the pipeline for quite awhile either. I am surprised husky have been caught off guard. I wonder if its the same for the ms880?
-
Not yet unfortunately. Might try the new piston kit route.
-
I think I would be using a wire anchor of some sort of you are leaving it up there for any length of time. There must be some branches above where you intend to anchor?
-
Cheers for the replies. Noo problem with the throttle cable or linkage. Changing the ring has sorted out a few saws that had idling issues but they struggled to idle all the time, this one only struggles to idle after the throttle is shut under load. So I thought it a long shot but I had already tried most things. True about them being a bit of a bitch to strip down! Tbh there was hardly any wear on the ring and since the operator has been using aspen the engine was spotless. I should of added that there are no issues that I can see with the drive train. The time I have spent on this machine would probably run a labour charge close enough to that of a new saw but since I won't be charging the customer anywhere near that much I might strip it back down and check the piston out. Shame not to get it sorted now.
-
Having a bit of an issue with a 540. It will idle fine but the revs drop too low and it cuts out of you let go of the throttle while under load. No issue if you let go of the throttle while not cutting. Tried lots of things so just wondering what the most common faulty component would cause this issue? Pressure and vacuum fine, good compression including new piston ring. Plug and coil gaps fine, tried swapping coil and carb from other 540 but still no good, no faults on autotune and wiring all good, also tank vent and pipes all good. Never had this much trouble with a machine before!
-
If you've done the math and your down to 30p a ton as a decider then that it is a tough call indeed! We did try them out to see what the fuss was and tbh they where awful. As others have mentioned they were awful out of the box so required a sharpen which was difficult to say the least. They were binned soon after. In store customer feedback is always negative in regards to the to performance. Anyway, sorry to derail the thread.
-
I look at it the other way around. Yes cost is a critical factor in business but not when it comes to the most important factors and imo the chain is one of them. You can have as much experience and skill combined with the greatest saw but a less than sharp/durable chain makes it all pointless. If I could notice the difference in performance then I would not bother using a cheap chain. Surely production goes down and using the 30 chains a year saving £1.5/£2 a day I think I would definately give that a miss, if not for the fact of having to sharpen them before using them alone. The more you replace the worse it gets. Each to their own and I certainly wouldn't want to tell anyone how to run their business but it just seems like false economy to me.
-
Surely cost is irrelevant in in this situation especially as it is only a very small cost if you are running a pro saw?
-
That will teach me to read posts properly. No clue about the concrete cutter sorry as the parts list doesnt give the dimensions of the ring, piston etc.
-
Interesting figures. I will try to make a note of the working hours on some of the old machines we service. I know I have seen a few 560xp's with at least 1000+ hours on them and running as new. I guess those saws will be running full throttle most of the time compared to say a top handle saw or a chipper saw.
-
I would of thought it is worth investing in some stihl piston rings and circlips at the very least. They are cheap and you are buying the best quality product available?
-
As Peatff says there isnt really any difference between the two. They are OK chainsaws but they are at the bottom of the model list. Worth speaking to your supplier before you buy for the pluses and minus of this machine.
-
There will be something not quite right as those saws cost nearly double that amount to buy in direct from Husqvarna. Chances are they will be genuine, just bought on a dodgy credit card and then sold on. Plus you wouldn't sell a straight saw at that price, not when you could easily get £400+ for it. At least you're covered by Amazon if they don't turn up.
-
Chances are it will be ok. I would empty the fuel l tank, pull the spark plug out and pull it over while the saw is upside down, slowly at first then a fair bit to get rid of the water. Fuel it up and try to start it. The sooner the better to get rid of water and coat the bearings etc in oil. Had a few saws do this over the years and never had any long term problems.
