Mark_Skyland
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Everything posted by Mark_Skyland
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I'm fairly sure mail order isnt an issue with parts, but chainsaws can not be shipped through the mail as its an in shop hand over policy only no matter on who the customer is domestic, or professional.
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The manufactures do their bit by individually marking each machine, they also link the sale of that machine to the dealer. It's then up to the end user to make a record of the a serial number and maybe mark the saw a few times in different places. The best thing to then do is register it with Arbsafe, plus any other equipment you have as it's free and the police use it to check for recovered items. Although we register all sold machines with the manufacture I wouldn't just rely on that as we can make mistakes.
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It will be interesting to follow this thread as ime I dont think you can beat a 560.
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I think I have binned all our ones but I will have a look next week. I dont envy trying to repair that but it is a fair cost to replace the case as you have to buy both sides and it does really need a few specialist/homemade tools to disassemble and rebuild the crankcase. You need to attach a post with an internal thread, I dont think it will be that easy to sort out.
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PM sent.
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Don't worry we aren't planning any black Friday deals. Just reasonable prices and items that we actually stock. Unless you want to buy a big flat screen tv then my mate can sort you out.
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As far as I know it's the 3 big 3 series saws going. Nothing in the pipeline for quite awhile either. I am surprised husky have been caught off guard. I wonder if its the same for the ms880?
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Not yet unfortunately. Might try the new piston kit route.
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I think I would be using a wire anchor of some sort of you are leaving it up there for any length of time. There must be some branches above where you intend to anchor?
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Cheers for the replies. Noo problem with the throttle cable or linkage. Changing the ring has sorted out a few saws that had idling issues but they struggled to idle all the time, this one only struggles to idle after the throttle is shut under load. So I thought it a long shot but I had already tried most things. True about them being a bit of a bitch to strip down! Tbh there was hardly any wear on the ring and since the operator has been using aspen the engine was spotless. I should of added that there are no issues that I can see with the drive train. The time I have spent on this machine would probably run a labour charge close enough to that of a new saw but since I won't be charging the customer anywhere near that much I might strip it back down and check the piston out. Shame not to get it sorted now.
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Having a bit of an issue with a 540. It will idle fine but the revs drop too low and it cuts out of you let go of the throttle while under load. No issue if you let go of the throttle while not cutting. Tried lots of things so just wondering what the most common faulty component would cause this issue? Pressure and vacuum fine, good compression including new piston ring. Plug and coil gaps fine, tried swapping coil and carb from other 540 but still no good, no faults on autotune and wiring all good, also tank vent and pipes all good. Never had this much trouble with a machine before!
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If you've done the math and your down to 30p a ton as a decider then that it is a tough call indeed! We did try them out to see what the fuss was and tbh they where awful. As others have mentioned they were awful out of the box so required a sharpen which was difficult to say the least. They were binned soon after. In store customer feedback is always negative in regards to the to performance. Anyway, sorry to derail the thread.
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I look at it the other way around. Yes cost is a critical factor in business but not when it comes to the most important factors and imo the chain is one of them. You can have as much experience and skill combined with the greatest saw but a less than sharp/durable chain makes it all pointless. If I could notice the difference in performance then I would not bother using a cheap chain. Surely production goes down and using the 30 chains a year saving £1.5/£2 a day I think I would definately give that a miss, if not for the fact of having to sharpen them before using them alone. The more you replace the worse it gets. Each to their own and I certainly wouldn't want to tell anyone how to run their business but it just seems like false economy to me.
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Surely cost is irrelevant in in this situation especially as it is only a very small cost if you are running a pro saw?
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That will teach me to read posts properly. No clue about the concrete cutter sorry as the parts list doesnt give the dimensions of the ring, piston etc.
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Interesting figures. I will try to make a note of the working hours on some of the old machines we service. I know I have seen a few 560xp's with at least 1000+ hours on them and running as new. I guess those saws will be running full throttle most of the time compared to say a top handle saw or a chipper saw.
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I would of thought it is worth investing in some stihl piston rings and circlips at the very least. They are cheap and you are buying the best quality product available?
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As Peatff says there isnt really any difference between the two. They are OK chainsaws but they are at the bottom of the model list. Worth speaking to your supplier before you buy for the pluses and minus of this machine.
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There will be something not quite right as those saws cost nearly double that amount to buy in direct from Husqvarna. Chances are they will be genuine, just bought on a dodgy credit card and then sold on. Plus you wouldn't sell a straight saw at that price, not when you could easily get £400+ for it. At least you're covered by Amazon if they don't turn up.
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Chances are it will be ok. I would empty the fuel l tank, pull the spark plug out and pull it over while the saw is upside down, slowly at first then a fair bit to get rid of the water. Fuel it up and try to start it. The sooner the better to get rid of water and coat the bearings etc in oil. Had a few saws do this over the years and never had any long term problems.
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Ah right, thought it was just a problem you were having from new. If you had no issues before them not sure exactly what it could be but not start issues are usually low compression problems. Could be the tank vent depending on how old the saw is ie which tank vent system it has, or an ignition issue. At last put a new plug in it and check the gap between the coil and flywheel .3mm will do and.5 mm on the spark plug. Once it's running does it have plenty of power and idle ok etc? Hope you get it sorted.
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Don't forget the APF show is in two weeks. Never a better time to try a good range of trousers at the cheapest price. I have tried a huge amount of different trousers out over the years when I was climbing, the most important thing for me was the comfort. The most expensive wasn't the best for me, in other words if you can't get to the apf get to your local arb supplier and try some on for size.
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Hot start procedure is this. Switch out and up to put the choke on then push lever down to knock choke off but leave on part throttle. Few pumps on the bulb, DO NOT push the decompressor button in, pull the saw over FAST. If im honest, the worst thing I see operators do is not pull the saw over fast enough. To start our 560 from warm I would give it one fast pull if it didn't run straight away put it on part throttle as per above. If you flood a husky it can be a bad start to the day.
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Interesting to see the Tsurugi mentioned as although it isnt a best selling saw for us user comments are always excellent. Most popular saw in regards to our sales ATM is the Zubat Arborist.
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We have fixed a few issues but are still finding new problems. If anyone has a bit of spare time please have a browse and let me know what you think about the layout/usability and general overall experience. Negative always welcome otherwise its hard to move forward and improve. Cheers Mark
