billpierce

Worth an ask on hpoc.co.uk

I mix filtered wvo with normal chainsaw oil. Makes it tackier and stops caking issues

Def needs to be on 1/4 sprocket running .043 chain

Have both, the echo would get replaced immediately if nicked. The 150 would be replaced with an echo. Loads pokier and smaller/better shape

Personally a 12 or 14 inch quarter pitch bar for your 180 would be a good start and good all rounder. You'll need a 1/4 sprocket also. Cannon and sugi are good. Not used the Oregon or stihl ones

Aye sambo on here had a one for similar money in good Nick also. Meybs sold now

Got a wide mouth litre one of these. Lifetime warranty. On my second. Drinks are consistently too hot to drink until after lunch.

Poor memory for some reason. Just have been an old deal which had them sold with sugi, gb, and an echo bar and a few sprockets of something.

https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/echo-cs-2511-tes-10-3-8-lo-pro-050-bar-and-chain-combo-x12-available-at-this-price/

Echo 2511 then I reckon. I think if I had bought this as a first saw I'd have been happy as ought. When you need something bigger just get yer ground saw sent up. It'll do everything you through at it up to 10" Cracking deal on them at chainsawbars.co.uk 265 quid or something with 40 bars

Hmmmm will look into that Andrew. Ta

Every brand has some belters and some absolute pieces of crap. Do your research well Echo2511 ms200 ms461 ms660 or 661 346xp 372xp all seem well used and popular. Been various issues with 550 and 560xp ms201 t540xp ms261 but probs sorted now? I'm having some recall issue with Makita right now. But the 7900 saw is belting. Parts availability is fine, especially via shavey on here. You taking new or s/h?

2015

Don't know. It's just standard the now,

Got a 2015 or 16 365 for sale if you want? £325, barely used.

Hi Andrew, it's all boxed up now for collection I'm afraid. It was extremely well wrapped. The slip of paper I with it indicates they have changed the brake spring mech etc a "drilled" handle. When I spoke to their technical dept they said they are fitting these plates to reinforce a week handle. I don't think the plate/rivets has caused the handle to snap but that it's increased rigidity has just meant the whole handle won't flex and so the part above the plate just snaps. Quite annoying really as it seemed fine before. Have you sold many handles Andrew? Suspect not. They seemed fine. They want it back to look as are pretty concerned about the breakage occurring so soon. At least that I suppose

Just off the phone to them. They want the saw back and are very sad to hear the brake handle is broken already. Apparently the riveted panel is there to reinforce the handle? Wtff?

Haven't got that warm fuzzy customer care feeling right now

I have absolutely no idea what the riveted panel is all about?

It was in fairness very well wrapped up so it was either broken before wrapped or broke without me noticing on my first snap on and off of the brake. Either way pretty disappointing. It does also look like they have replaced some of the mechanism. Not the brake band. I do hope I will not have to wait another 5 weeks

That's right. They seem to have replaced the handle, pop riveted a label onto it. And sent a cracked handle back to me. Fuck off makita

I was overwhelmed with joy to return from holiday to find my 7900 returned to me. Thankfully it hadn't been nicked despite having just been left out by the courier. Eagerly I opened it up to discover what the important safety mod was....

Thay seems pretty healthy

I reckon you'll do well to get to know some skilled subbie climbers and groundies, bring them in on your jobs and see it as a learning day. One of my favourite things about subbing for a range of people is the things you pick up from how everyone does it a bit different. Small dismantles you'll probs figure out but unless you want your first few reductions to look whack def get an experienced groundies or climber in I'd say. Keep us updated with how you get on!

Id say which system is most appropriate is completely dependant on the tree and the rescuers skill. For me trying to sort out an unfamiliar srt ascent ( even if this was the theoretically fastest method of access) would be more time consuming than drt repositioning anchor every 3m or so. Likely I'd also be wapping the spikes on for a quick ascent in many situations or reaching for the triple ladder. Imo it would be rare that using the injured climbers line for ascent and decent would be the quickest/safest option, although I did footlock up a single line to rescue someone In my aerial rescue exam for some reason, but descended on a seperate line ( you'd be certainly taking a line with you always right?). To answer your question, by all means experiment with pulleys, srt , zigzag etc but they won't make you into a good climber, but may make some aspects of climbing fractionally easier. You main things to learn as a new climber will be more about rope position and how to access different parts if a canopy with ease, getting used to work at height, and pruning technique etc. You'll be fine for a while with just a prussoc, I have only relatively recently switched to hitch climber which I enjoy, and seems to be variable enough to work with many rope combos (and I think Srt?).