billpierce

Thay seems pretty healthy

I reckon you'll do well to get to know some skilled subbie climbers and groundies, bring them in on your jobs and see it as a learning day. One of my favourite things about subbing for a range of people is the things you pick up from how everyone does it a bit different. Small dismantles you'll probs figure out but unless you want your first few reductions to look whack def get an experienced groundies or climber in I'd say. Keep us updated with how you get on!

Id say which system is most appropriate is completely dependant on the tree and the rescuers skill. For me trying to sort out an unfamiliar srt ascent ( even if this was the theoretically fastest method of access) would be more time consuming than drt repositioning anchor every 3m or so. Likely I'd also be wapping the spikes on for a quick ascent in many situations or reaching for the triple ladder. Imo it would be rare that using the injured climbers line for ascent and decent would be the quickest/safest option, although I did footlock up a single line to rescue someone In my aerial rescue exam for some reason, but descended on a seperate line ( you'd be certainly taking a line with you always right?). To answer your question, by all means experiment with pulleys, srt , zigzag etc but they won't make you into a good climber, but may make some aspects of climbing fractionally easier. You main things to learn as a new climber will be more about rope position and how to access different parts if a canopy with ease, getting used to work at height, and pruning technique etc. You'll be fine for a while with just a prussoc, I have only relatively recently switched to hitch climber which I enjoy, and seems to be variable enough to work with many rope combos (and I think Srt?).

Best of luck, hope it goes well with no issues

Personally I'd not fix what ain't broke. You can probs get a whole 50cc 346 for not a lot more than that if you scratch about. If your sure it'll fit a meteor kit might be worth a thought as they are good quality.

Not finding any info on this bar rob? Got a link. Doe the 0.050 Sugi bars only run sugi chain also? How does the 0.043 sugi chain differ to the stihl?

10mm x100 or 150mm stainless coach screws. Tool station is cheap enough for them. Get stainless washers also 12mm for 10mm screws eta as you need a bigger hole to counter sink them for your socket to fit in. Or even better air tool torque wrench. Obvs pre drill the surface and meybs smaller drill I.e 6mm for 10mm screws the second. Careful not to thread them. Ideally leave for a few weeks before capping the screws so you can get that last half turn as the green wood usually shrinks up a bit.

My old boss used to encourage training by offering a pay rise. I.e get your saw ticket and your up 15quid a day eta. Seems like a sensible way

Rob are all these ones on offer to run the Sugi chain? If so are there any downsides to this? Edit: the smaller 1/4 pitch ones

This one Mick. Check your spam bolam, plenty emails there from them

T Would those be 0.43 or .50 rob? Could handle a load for small stihl 200t etc. No issues running wincey chain on they saws? Again assume then are sprocket nose not carvers?

What about the people on this thread looking for decent firms?

Just spoke to Makita, they say they have all the parts in now and saw will be back by next week

Thanks dude

Gosh those big spikes look nice, if only I knew someone that could supply them. If only I could have my saw back also

That's pretty much the craic though when you subby isn't it? I only seem to subby sporadically rather than very regular but it often seems that the subby pace is different to people who do 5 days a week for a firm. Defs Not saying they don't graft hard, but there is or can be something about the irregular and insecure nature of subby work which drives you to sweat it. It's hard that feeling when you ace a job and know you just made someone else a load richer!

If it works ok but look a a bit worn personally I'd pull the plug cap off and sheath it it electrical heat shrink wrap a few times. Coils Are pretty dear, often the leads are molded Into the coil.

To be fair the 7900 is extremely torquey....much more grunt than a 365. Parts a generally quick and easy (try shavey) but this recall is a balls up

Mr vikkis hot chilli sauce is my latest favourite in all sarnies also

Can of mackerel, 2 slices of bread with mayo and dill. Makes 2 sandwiches as and when. Tastes lush, seconds to make. My favourite for running late mornings.

Are you familiar with tuning saws? It may need further carb adjustment. The farmertec carbs on eBay aren't too bad. Certainly ok for a year, but you need to be able to tune them

This is true, but I don't know if tree work is cheaper. I.e if your running the show you still can make good money. Especially if your paying the lads 50 quid a day. I don't really know if I price stuff cheap medium or expensive though.

Still not got mine back or heard anything. Dicks

I can't understand it. Some firms won't pay more than 80 or 90 quid a day for a climber up here. 12 years ago I was on that as a groundie with no kit and just a saw ticket. Hang on in there ( exactly what area are you in? ). Sure good firms are out there and you'll find them eventually.

I'd check rails are even, resharpen the chain checking teeth are even length and slab another board see what it's like.