agrimog

yanmar will not suport "grey" tractors due to the numerous litigation cases in the usa, sorry but you cant stop stupid, your YM 1600 is perfectly safe, and a cracking buy, hoyles are great for information, but wont ship outside the US, there are a few uk suppliers, sparex being the most obvious(check your local agrri supplier) as for a manual, a good search on the web should tur up something, clymer, I&T, being the 2 that spring to mind. and welcome to the world of the noisy 2 cylinder yanmar........lol

stick a pto driven hydraulic pump on it, it will run any splitter you like then, and as fast as you can load it

most small tractors are imports, nearly all of them come from either japan or india, sub 20hp, very few have auxilary hydraulic outputs, most, if not all have conventional pto rotation, what they do have is an oddball middle pto speed designed for some bit of rice paddy kit, the rice paddy tyres although murder on hard surfaces, are unbeatable in the soft and loose of the woods. the two and three cylinder yanmar diesels are DI, so are noisy, but sip fuel, manual shutdown......no bigee, means no electronics to go wrong, have a really good spares network, and an excellent knowledge database.

yanmar are one of the largest small engine and tractor manufacturers in the far east......nothing wrong with there kit. my little ym1300 pulls trees out places you wouldnt believe, gearing perfectly matched to the engine. they were around before kubota, and probably will be long after they go

russ, there used to be a mog around granton on spey built proper cabins, dont know if you tried them, and a company called imperial daschus in galloway havent heard anything good about them though but these are the only two up in scotland I know that use whole logs for house building

its called SEE, they were built for the US military, but marketed under the freightliner brand, there are more specialist parts on them than any other mog, very few std 406 bits are interchangable. they are very low geared, pitch and roll when driven at any speed at all. and have crap brakes for there weight. for what it would cost to make it usable, save your money and buy a more conventional mog.........these are musuem pieces, or miltary vehicle collectors...........built for a specific purpose for a "company" with bottomless pockets

a lot of machined timber houses, and links, but grizz is the only real log cabin, a lot of folk have jumped on the bandwagon in the last few years but unless it actually uses the whole round log, its another simple timber build, you might as well build it with 4x2's, cos thats how much it's like a log cabin, to the best of my knowledge there are only around half a dozen true log cabin builders in the uk at the moment, and they are busy, start searching on google for others

WOW, these training orginisations must be going to hogwarts now, they manage to compress years of skill and training into 10 weeks, churn out bodies and tell them they are tree surgeons, and that they deserve a top paying job........................no wonder the industry is fubar'ed

the big problem up here in scotland is all the plantations that were hand planted 30-50 years ago, a man could walk, and plant up the steep incline, over the rocky outcrops, a harvester cant go there, there are literly 1000's of acres unnacessable to mechanical harvesting methods, a return to hand cutting and skylining is comming... I cant see a big investment in the big tigercat tracked machines with prices as they stand for timber

its the longevity of diesel engines that is the biggest factor, most plant and commercial stuff arent high reving engines which makes for long usage, also the basic simplicity of the design and maintainance, allso the way diesel produces the torque

that end has been wet, when you cut and exposed the fresh timber,the moisture has carried enough off the metal of the chain to cause tannin staining......oak + moisture + steel = blue/black tannin stains. I've even had it when milling out and a light shower passes through, speckles all over fresh milled timber

cross cut chain vs ripping chain.......mmmm, no contest really, depending on the type of timber your milling, anything from a 4 degree grind to a 10 degree grind will produce the finish you require (the only way to find whats right for you is experimentation, bar length, cutting speed, and style of cutting all effect the result), for optimum results Ive found stihl's pmx hard to beat (3/8 pico) seems to perform beter after its first sharpen, maybe this is just me, as for how often to sharpen.....you'll know very quickly, little and often seems to be the best option, and screw your oil pump up to the max output, you'll be amazed at how clogged chains can get when they heat up, likewise bars, you'll spend a lot of time cleaning up. welcome to the weird world of chainsaw milling

the real hand cutters are all getting old now, and a lot wiser, let the youngsters try working in the big sitka plantations, knees that dont work, back totally shot, and shoulders and forearms like popeye........yet to meet a "faller" trained in the last 10 years that can last a week in the big stuff, where did all the wimps come from

frontera is a rebadged isuzu mu, with an opel 2,2 diesel engine, mechanicaly not bad, but very old school these days

grain pattern and layout look right, but like big J, need to see more boards, plus its been that long since I seen elm with bark, I've forgotten what it looks like

get round to your nearest agricultural dealer and get a copy of the sparex catalogue, then start searching, most of the tractor tpl parts are unique, but some are interchangable. I did start looking when I got mine, but ended up re-machineing the bits myself, got the wear bushes and new pins from sparex

if your that bothered about IVA crap...I refurbished an old trailer and am using that.......proove otherwise, they cant end of argument

for something to be classed as a trailer, it has to fit into one of the "O" catagories, O1, O2. O3, or O4, theses are the weight carrying capacities, now as a sawmill, it cant carry any weight as its a piece of specialist plant, so how can you IVA test it when it doesnt have a recognised catagorie, it is in the same group as agricultural implements that are towed, and as long as it has suspension, brakes (if applicable), and correct tyres, it isnt restricted to 25mph. checkout the trailer section in the 1985 construction and use act, with the various ammendments as applicable..........

yes, when you bolt the sawmill onto the chassis, it ceases to be a trailer and becomes a piece of specialist plant, or an agricultural implement. A trailer is designed to carry a load, and be easily loaded and unloaded, would you class a caravan as a load carrying trailer.....same reasoning,

and chock full of electronics that arent user servicable.

check out there videos on you tube. and on there website, very informitive on setting it up and using it

the minute you bolt the sawmill onto your trailer, it ceases to be a trailer, it then becomes a piece of plant, or an agricultural implement, and a whole different set of rules comes into play........its not a trailer anymore, as it doesnt carry any loads. and as for building material, the woodlands drawing calls for a 6x2x1/8 box, the best uk option is 100x50x5, this gives a beam with the "Z" (bending load) very similar, watch how you build it and your all up weight will just under 750kg, so no brakes needed. if you look at the woodland drawing, it shows a ladder pattern of 1x1's along the top, these are to clear the bolts holding the rails together, if you;ve got the newer versions of the mill with the 16mm levelling screws, you bont need these 1x1's, ataching the bilts direct to the 100x50's gives enough clearance and allows for the mill to be trued up very easily, taking out any twist and bending, just make sure the suport legs are up to the task of taking the weight of the timber your going to place on it.

a garden can be as big as you like, A, is it on ground atached to, and enclosed with the property, and B, does it consist of mixed hardwoods, or is it primarily softwood/evergreen. these should tell you whether its a garden or a plantation, and a felling licence isnt any grief

got one on a jinmi 254, cracking winch, pulls above its spec, but as was said earlier be carfull about birdnesting the winch line, dont know whether its the type of cable there supplying or the way it spools on, I suspect the cable because the other winch setup, a tajfun, looks identical, but is using cable that came from clarkes, and never had a problem with that

everyone seems to be missing an important point here, the inspection calls for a compitent person, go and read what H&S deem as a copitent person, a lot of inspectors will be starting to look for other jobs. I have been through this with a crane fitted to a mog, put a timber grab on it......its a loader, no loller reqd, put a hook on it, its a crane, loller reqd, who can do the loller ? a compitent person, as an owner operator, I am deemed to be a compitent person and can carry out the loller, bur H&S would rather I didnt, note, not cant not do it, just rather I wouldnt, getting confused yet ?....... go back to the start of everything H&S say....its an ADVISORY statement, ie they wont commit to anything preferring to leave it to someone else to make a desicion. so as a one man climbing operation, are you compitent to loller your own gear......yes, in the eyes of big brother YOU ARE A COMPITENT PERSON ........dont believe me, look it up for yourself