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R Mac

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About R Mac

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  1. Run it backwards, great for opening beer bottles if you're in a hurry
  2. I get the feeling from the replies that you all think I said sharpening a chain back to as sharp as a new chain wasn't possible? For the record I didn't say or even imply that it wasn't possible. I personally wouldn't claim to be able to do it, not that I've actually tried any back to back tests, and as I said I suspect there are plenty of people who would make it worse. Having said that I wouldn't disagree that a person who is good at sharpening can get a chain as sharp or sharper than a new one but I suspect there may be a few tweaks involved that people have learned from experience, tweaks that are outside of the basic procedure.
  3. I don't doubt that it's possible (for some people) to 'sharpen' a chain and end up with it being worse than it was before sharpening let alone not as sharp as it was when new. I hand sharpen and get get a dull chain back to cutting nicely but I'd hesitate to claim I can get it back to cutting like a brand new chain. As for the hardened chains at £6, looks like he's seen the Rotatech chains and read the description. So nothing at all surprising in what he said, just happens that while it isn't exactly untrue it isn't entirely true either.
  4. R Mac

    stihl air flilters

    I soak the felt ones in petrol and blow out with an airline, the rest, (Pleated paper/fine mesh) just get blown out with an airline, always blow from the inside to push the dirt out. Regarding not using an airline, my Lantra workbook says to clean according to the manufacturers instructions, an additional warning note simply says to wear eye protection if the manufacturers instructions recommend using an airline. FWIW on my 4 saws, the recommendations are to brush lightly/clean with a non flammable solvent on 2 of them and brush lightly/clean with airline on the other 2.
  5. Why is that? I assumed if the oil met or exceeded the JASO rating recommended by the saw manufacturer it would be fine, is that not so? FWIW I use Oregon 2 stroke in all my saws (Echo) and pruner, trimmer & leaf blower (Timberpro) all running 50:1 although Timberpro say to use 40:1.
  6. R Mac

    20" Bar on a 395

    Dead on, will look out for it.
  7. R Mac

    Felling wedges

    Aye they're probably fine, lets face it wedges in general aren't exactly high tech, just get a couple (Oregon, K&H, Oschenkopf, Stihl, whatever) around 5" and a couple around 8" and a hi lift.
  8. Maybe you know this already but you can buy a year pass direct from the MotoGP website, think it's about €100, gets you all the classes, all practice sessions plus races, watch anytime (No Spoiler) and also the off season tests. I've had it for the past 2 seasons and just signed up again. It's really the only sport that interests me so was easily the cheapest option, as for general TV, well I've got Freeview but tend to just watch a few channels on Youtube.
  9. R Mac

    20" Bar on a 395

    Not according the Husqvarna website, Max is listed as 36", Min 18" Husqvarna Chainsaws 395 XP®
  10. R Mac

    Felling wedges

    Depends in whether you're only using them to wedge a tree over, if that's the case then a high lift is the one. On the other hand if you're using wedges for other reasons then I'd carry a mix, my preference is for 2 x 5 1/2" Oregon and 2 X 8" Oregon on my belt and a high lift to hand. You can stack a couple of 8" wedges but they can slip, especially if you're driving them in with an axe and not being accurate with your strikes, you can also drive a high lift further in due to the length. I prefer the wooden insert but definitely double up on the rings. Just my view
  11. And how would a LOLER inspector know if the cord/shockcord he was looking at was supplied by the manufacturer or simply 3 party? he wouldn't. It's a modification though regardless of whether the biner is CE or not, CE isn't a rating, it's a statement of conformity and not subject to testing, in addition most arb suppliers sell accessory biners that aren't rated, in fact I have some Stein ones. Your argument has more holes than a colander and I'm done with it.
  12. I think you're missing the point, regardless of what or where you attach gear loops it'll come down to what part is the weakest link, you also said/implied that a harness wouldn't pass LOLER is it was modified and I asked if adding a carabiner would be considered a modification. In addition how would a LOLER inspector establish what load I or anyone else was going to put on an accessory attachment point, it could be anything from a webbing sling to a chainsaw. On the 2 harness I referred to the gear loops are configured by the user using either 7mm accessory cord, cord that's listed on the Stein website with no indication of what if any standard it meets, or shockcord in the case of the Treemotion that again doesn't appear to be rated to any standard. Quite frankly if a LOLER inspector failed my harness on the basis that he couldn't establish whether the gear loops meet a standard I'd be taking it elsewhere although I suspect he'd be applying common sense.
  13. So the 7mm accessory cord supplied for use with a Stein Vega and the shockcord supplied with a Treemotion is rated? Both appear to be supplied as a length which is cut as required by the user so there's no marking. How would a LOLER inspector establish whether the accessory cord on a Stein Vega or shockcord on a Treemotion was rated or not? Would adding a carabiner to your harness be classed as a modification? for example what if you add a Caritool to your harness, is your harness then going to fail LOLER due to being modified?
  14. You could remove them but say for the sake of argument you left them on, on what basis would they fail, the gear loops on a Stein Vega are to all intents and purposes double braid [ame=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99FTxPAZ2iI]See Here[/ame] and in the case of the Treemotion simply shockcord See Here

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