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agrimog

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Everything posted by agrimog

  1.  

    <p>cheers brian, yes, they'll be getting milled, 10" gives me nice 6" parrallel double "d" logs. a lot easier to build with, as long as there reasonably straight, any kinks can be worked ino the build. any ideas about carraige, as i dont have the capablity to haul </p>

    <p>paul</p>

     

  2.  

    <p>muldonach, looking for enough larch to build a log cabin for a group, Im looking for around 100 5mtr lengths of about 10" dbh, the build site is just outside cumnock and has a decent flat area for offloading, please advise on your prices and availability</p>

    <p>Paul (agrimog)</p>

     

  3. me too,Im looking for enough larch for a cabin project, around 100 lengths 5mtr, 10 " dbh in sw scotland, the site is inside the management zone so no paperwork hasstles
  4. right guys, the time has come again, another cabin to build, so I'm looking for any info on possible suppliers in the SW of scotland. I'm looking for around 100 5mtr lengths of larch(or sitka if I have to) of approx 250mm/10" dbh and delivery to site...........theres good acssess on site and a flat area to offload. any pointes would be a great help.......oh, and its a paying job, not looking for freebies
  5. yes, the bar hieght above the lifting bars, and the scale on the same, a quick check is get a bit of 2" material, and wind up the lifting bar till its just touching on the chain, with a still and lo-pro pmx chain, the indicator is dead on 2" .......you might need to tweek any husky set up( havent ever used a husky on my m7)
  6. should work fine, dont know how the measurement graduations would line up though as there spaced for a stihl, you might have to make a few adustments
  7. 12 weeks from no skills or knowledge to a fully fledged arborist/ tree surgeon.......and you all wonder why the trades turning to poop........enough said
  8. find it a dream to cut, but then I physically check every log and orientate acording to the growth rings, I've found this helps prevent the bannana boards, and as a blade lube water and soluble oil, (check your local machine shop) I now use a synthetic one with 90:1 dilution rate, and nothing sticks to the band, and no corrosion either
  9. there are diffrent types and sizes depending on what age and model of mog.....,any good hydraulic place should be able top refurb them
  10. pay minimum wage.......get minimum brain
  11. a ban on politicians having more than 2 terms in office, prevent the "career politicians" living on the back of the working man, ban corporation from dabling in politics, and a return to common law, and look at repealing most of the commercial statutes and acts from the last 200 years(as these seem to be mostly for the benifit of the few and the corporations) and the removal of parliamentry privalidge......if you lie, cheat and commit fraud.....you go to jail, but most important, an MP's wage calculated as an average of ALL earnings in there area, including those on benifitts.......and NO expenses
  12. it doesnt mater to much what manufacturer you pick, any ep75-90 will do, as long as its a GL4 spec........under no circumstance use the newer GL5 spec as you will destroy your box.........( the german army use the same oil in the gearbox and engine, a single weight sae 30 grade, and just change it regularly with no problems)
  13. unless you've got 3 phase, your going to be limited to around 220-230A max, even with a 32A socket, and unless your going to use it every day dont waste your money on something that large, look at around 185-195 ish as your limit, and if you want to weld thicker than they can cope with, look at MMA machines (stick) as an alternate. good machines can be sourced from R-Tech, SIP, Weldtech, and a few others
  14. apologies openspaceman, me getting names mixed up, late night blindness....lol
  15. openspaceman........tractors are restriced to 25mph in the uk,irrespective of what they can actually do, and we work in mph, not kph........yet
  16. stefan, you should be honoured that your neighbor can actually speak in understandable tones........its darvel ........a place so strange even the paranormal hunters avoid it
  17. have a good look at some of the timber cranes with extending booms, the way the pipes are routed keeps them safe, 4 3/8" 2 wires inside a spiral poly sleeve will roll the way you set them up, just got to cope with the loop. it'll be expensive to go with hose reels or chain track.......trust me
  18. there is another option on the square cabs, its possible to mount a system off the middle of the chassis, IE a mower, or a sweeper, or a flail, its not very common in the uk, but very common in germany for autobhan maintenance
  19. thats fitted to the same chassis points as the TPL and din plates, and the front bumper has been removed, remember the square cab is different though
  20. have a good shop around on ebay, there are german hydraulic companies offering deals for type 2 and type 3 pumps fitted to pto adapters for less than some of the rip off brits are wanting for the adapters alone
  21. front linkage is going to cost around a grand second hand, reverser boxes 750ish, and din plates, getting hard to find, Itll take a bit of rejigging on the back, but it would be your cheapest option
  22. just remembered this mob, on sale at the minute Unterlenker mit Gelenkauge Kat. 2 links, 219,00 €, Nutzfahrzeuge
  23. your going to have a few problems with a linkage on the back of that, theres a ringfeder towing eye fitted, this will interfere with your top link mounting, and the pto shaft has been offset to fit in with the tow mount, this will cause problems when mounting equipment that needs the pto. the actuall arms arent that complicated, and have a ball at each end, the inboard mounts are already on your truck, and the link rods between top arms and bottom arms are the same as fitted on all cat2 setups on mogs, atkinson vos is probably your best bet for parts, but be prepared for re-newing balls and pins as these are likley to be worn
  24. this is something often bandied about when mogs are talked about, cost of running and maintenance, the honest answer, for a competent mechanic, no more expensive than any other large tractor or large commercial. yes a lot of specialist parts, but the run of the mill service stuff is std commercial, and most of the hydraulic and pneumatic systems are again, commercially sourced. Ma benz isnt stupid, there are plenty of suppliers out there making parts for commercial manufacturers, there lifted off the shelf and integrated into the build, the expense comes when the owner/mechanic wont do there homework and goes straight to the dealer parts counter, thats where they make there money. its very rare that the "specialist " parts go wrong, except for breakage(missuse or lack of maintenance being the most common faults), and for what they are, these arent too bad. most of the problems come from the myth that they are so special, you need an expensive fitter to work on them, they are anything but, remember these are machines that were concieved in the aftermath of the last war, and unless you are wealthy enough to be running one of the fancy modern ones, have no electronics, good old simple mechanical bits, and with a proper set of manuals, which detail everything, a good mechanic, with a good set of tools, can service, repair, rebuild, anything on these trucks (okay, some jobs which require specialist machining facillites, need to be farmed out, but this is the same with any mechanical servicing).
  25. top mounted intercooler= engine heat soak, if anything you'll actually start to loose power as the engine warms up, get it mounted in front of the radiator and re-pipe it

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