agrimog

on the subject of a mog being agricultural......refer to the construction and use act, definitons of an agricultural machine/tractor......front or rear three point hitch, mog has both, front or rear pto, mog has both, initial registration as an agricultural machine from new, yes, , the usual crap comes into the rules for the use of rebated fuel.....there is a good downloadable set of instructions from HMRC, takes any confusion out the use

still have the beast, doesnt get used much these days as it needs a refurb, but a yanmar compact tractor and an IH454 tractor keep things rolling along nicely

about time, it might start to see a realistic pricing returning to the pickup market, working vehicles used far tax loopholes for too long

further to my post, it brings memories of having to do a telehandler certification as I reqd a "ticket" to be able to use one.......I am now in my 60's and I think I was about 14 or 15 when our first "forklift" arrived on the farm, basically a tractor reversed and a forklift mast stuck on it......from that through just about every conceviable type of "thing" with forks on......including some very weird and special things in the military, Ive driven them all.......so 2 hours in the classroom being taught the basics by a rather young gentleman, a quick written exam, doh....and then a practical test.....moving some boxes on pallets about.....so upon finishing and being told stack them on that wagon.....placed them in such a way as the instructor could not get them back off with the same machine......I just looked shrugged my shoulders, laughed and walked away laughing, I wonder if he workrd out how I actually did it yet....lol......

at 1.2m wide unless you have some serious underside bracing in place any slab will crown significantly......I recomend you use 3 or even 4 pieces with the grain alternating and either biscuit or spline jointed, if you could source them from the same log the grain structure will match

if this forum continues it will open the old can of worms......"tickets, re-assesments, how long things last, and what you actually can do ", these days, with every "outdor" shop selling some make of chainsaw, toolstores selling battery top handles, and even chainsaw bars for circular saws, there is a increase in jobing joiners using them....no "tickets" a basic knowledge and maybe, if your lucky someone giving them 5 min's instruction, we are in a way returning to the way it was before "the big storm", when there was little or no regulation about saws, then suddenly the massive increase in injuries forced H&S to do something. I have been asked on several occasions "do you have a ticket for your sawmill", I just laugh these days, 20years experience and still picking up little tricks here and there, I wonder who the instructor would be....as I now have an "apprentice", I make sure everything they are shown is noted in the work book so there is a record, this, as far I am aware is a perfectly acceptable training record and covers us both as far as insurannce goes, as for use of other tools and equipment they recieve onsite training as reqd

Bliadhna Mhath Ùr

take one old static caravan and add some wany edge boards =

woodland mills do a 4" a 6" and an 8" pto driven chipper, check on the uk website

since this tory goverment came in £190 billion has dissapeared in various handouts for "companies" to provide certain services reqd by them, without going throrugh the proper channels, all reqd by "emergency measures " being in place, we used to laugh about the corruption in third world countries......these days the tories are not even trying to hide there corruption and are just laughing at the rest of us

speak to a lawyer about pursuing a civil claim against the officer who tried to cuff you....unnesescary use of force, and acting outwith his authourity....a serious offence on his part, plod are getting to officious these days and seem to have forgotten there purpose......to serve the public.....most of them are on a power trip and looking for the slightest reason to cuff anybody and be the bully boy

in answer to your questions, 1. yes, just size the boiler to suit your requirments, and 2, yes, how do you think it used to be done, its called a thermo syphon system

check the supply line between the tank and the carb......any ethanol in the fuel does funny things to them.......had me pulling what hairs left out with a similar problem, run fine all day untill loaded, then die, the fuel line was contracting internally with no outward signs

interesting topic, but no one has asked the vital question.....what effect does more oil have on the a/f ratio....easy, it causes a leaner mixture....leaner mixture runs hotter....hotter 2 stroke= siezed engine, stihl, hursqvarna, echo, etc, have all set there carbs up to work the f/a ratio as close to perfect as they can based on a 50-1 ratio of oil, if you run less oil, the mixture gets richer, and effectivly is the same as running on choke...fouls things up, the more oil you run, the leaner it gets and lean runns hotter and hotter till it siezes, or worse, melts the piston, anyway, your saws and strimmers, do what you want, oh and the more ethanol, the more water it absorbs, the leaner the longer it sits

mill your larch as green as you can, the wetter the better, and be prepared to change the band regular, its very abrasive on the teeth, provided you watch the grain orientation sticking it up green wont matter to much, it'll dry out to a beautifull silver grey, sometimes with a pinkish tinge, but not always, and get ready for the "itch", the tiny fibres off it when milling are a bloody nusiance that takes days, if not weeks to get used to........but irs worth it in the end, 70-100 year timber, very under rated in this country

very nice bit of elm Saul, havent seen a lot with the cat paws across it, will make some cracking furniture pieces

hopefully someone can help me, I have been asked what it would cost to airspde an old ash tree in a garden, the owner is rather atached to the tree and wants to try this out in the hope it might stop any ash dieback. the area is in galloway in sw scotland and due to the topographical layout is actually quite protected to the normal weather patterns, so who knows, it might work, it might not, there is good vehicular acsess for up to a 7.5t wagon, any info would be a great help

forget the prima donnas on the other channels, on BBC Scotland at the moment, proper green woodworkers in the forrest, with fresh felled timber

no alexa, no wifi, the computers hard wired, old school style, dont use the phone for anything but calls, texts, and photos,....must be a dinasaour.....

mill up a couple of long 6x2's and lay these on the ground, then put your mill onto the top of them, with the two battens running front to back screwed to these it stabilises and stops the whole thing twisting

one word describes the whole programme.........

the time is coming, the powers that be do not want you owning or running your own vehicle, in fact they do not want you doing anything that doesnt make you dependant on there handouts, they are after total control, look at how china is progressing, if you dont earn enough "social points", your lifestyle is heavily restricted, you have been warned.......and as for thee new emmision zones.....start cloning your vehicles with councill vehicle reg's.......why should you pay for there stupidity and uselessness

used one a few years ago for clearing a windblown site with very limited accses, worked great till one morning the very end of the boom twisted on itself.......had to cut it off and remake it with additional bracing, its still going as far as Im aware

back on the question of acuracy and the hm126, sharp band correct tension and right feed speed, I can take a full width cut at less than a 1/16" with very little, if any deviation, its a nice party trick, but not a lot of use, I regularly cut 6mm-10mm for interior type cladding, especially in exotic or fancy figured timber.....wany edged board and baton is catching on, especially in the "man shed" as to any other mill and acuracy......its all in the time spent in the setup, and operator experience, theres no substitute for time cutting, you learn every little noise change and funny vibration...decide on your market , and pick your size to maximise your throughput, buying again, would I go bigger, no, except for the 14hp engine option, that one yes, you can never have enough , oh, and actuall bed length.......somebody always wants a longer beam, or post, or something, you cant win

jumping into this late.......I've owned a 126 since 2014, one of the early models, and its fitted to one of the later woodlander trailers, yes it can be done !!!, some extra holes and the use of mushroom headed bolts....., but then and keen and desperate to mill everything in sight, I would have bought the 130 if it had been available, but in the years since, Im glad I didnt.......there are various factors that will effect your choice, how are you going to handle your raw trees, a 24" dia log 12ft long is heavy, and takes a bit of work to move around, likewise 20-24" boards 12ft+ long take 2 people to move and stack, have you room in your chosen site to use a front loader, and how much mess will it make, where will yoou stack timber, space lost for up to 2 years , and trust me, space runs out very quickly, where, and what are you going to do with the sawdust produced, also all the slabwood and offcuts, the mill itself is only a small part of the equation, and requires a serious thought about timber handling and storage as well, as for running costs,... belts, Ive changed both belts twice, buy the best you can find, I recomend gates, ...guide bearings, change then once a year, bought from e-bay, a dozen at a time, similarly pulley wheel bearings, I'm now on my 3rd clutch, they wear, but watching your engine rpms is important, that your idle is low enough that the clutch isnt catching, and top speed is actally that, the throttle cables slip, stretch and need keeping an eye on, regular oil and filter changes, likewise spark plugs, and apart from that, the only other expense is washing up liquid and iso propyl alcohol for lube.........try and get some hands on time with different machines, loading, cutting and looking at basic maintenance, youll find one that clicks and suits your style