agrimog

eyes in steel cables are actually very simple to do compared to ropes, kermantle is probably the worst to splice

youll have fun. I can assure you

graham w, youll find most of the "log cabin" profile cutters on the logosol site, they are expensive but they have the "d" profile and the double tounge and groove

strictly speaking once the sawmill is built onto the trailer, into, in woodlands case, it ceases to be a trailer as such, and becomes a piece of towed equipment which for some weird reason falls under agricultural rules, so as long as it has suspension , and complies with lighting regs, and weight restrictions, I dont know about the others but the woodlands HM126 with 1 extension just falls under the 750kg rule, theres nothing to stop you pulling it anywhere you want......to be absolutly sure , when its built weigh it and keep the printout from the weighbridge in case your stopped

the biggest majority of my cutting is done on site( in the woods), so the sawdust is scattered around to degrade back to compost, some of it gets burned in my stove during the winter...a 5 gallon drum burns for about 12 hrs, and is hot enough to cook on, a bonus in my little shelter, any boards slabs etc are generally cut for specifc jobs and buyers so theres never that much lying around, but as the current base of ops is 10 acres, plenty of space if I need it

like yourself, started with an M7, and moved on to an HM126, on a trailer, ok it wont quite go where the logosol went, but production is way higher, quality about the same, a lot less wastage and sawdust, and uses a lot less fuel, no 2 stroke to mix, no chain oil to fill up......water and fairy liquid !, and the biggest bonus, its a lot quieter, all the tricks you learned oin the M8 still apply on the bandsaw, the only advice I would give above other things, check the you tube videos from independant users, and when you build it, read the manual cover to cover to start with, and do it like it says, especially when setting up tracking and levels.......woodlands are great machines, but have quirks, ........my M7, it now only gets used if I have to break something to big down to fit on the bandmill, or for special wide slabs for tabletops

and if your stuck for a router on site......a 3/8 chain cuts a tight slot for 9mm ply..........dont ask !!!!

save yourself a lot of grief, rout a groove into each face and fit a plywood spline, or if your really bothered fit 2, easier than finding someone with a moulder and the right knives to do it

if it is just hogweed, cut it back and burn the lot, then as the new growth comes through harvest the fresh stems and cook them, if you cut them just as the leaf fronds are unfurling, they can be sauted in butter and bacon fat and taste just like spicy asparagus, delish , and it helps keep the plant under control

right, as far as the rules up here in scotland go, any "mobile building" does not require planning consent, max size......look at whats available as "twin units" or lodges on static caravan sites, garden sheds or garages, allowed under permitted development, though max areas come into play along with hieght restrictions, check with your local planning guys, these do differ in some areas, a "hut", there is new legislation in scotland covering living huts, the exact details you would need to check up on but this is probably your best route, not intended for permanant lodging, but whos to know if it is, or isnt occupied...(you've got the neighbour as a peeping tom or a stalker, and an injunction would stop his nosiness), especially if its a young female. the other way, is the property still classed as a farm or smallholding, ie, do you have a holding no. if so, agricultural permited developments come into play...........build an "animal shelter", they cant stop you, and then after 6 months apply for a change of use to temporary worker accomadation, again perfectly legal and your on your way

I want to see the robot that can go into the plantation, select the appropriate tree for what needs milling, drop, sned and get it onto the mill, mill it up with maximum yeild, and fetch it out to the roadside, all without disturbing the flora and fauna, or any visible impact , if its out there I want it.........

how have you gotten on with the hm126, a move up to the 130max would be a simple one as you are already familiar with the setup, the logosol is a nice machine, but then your starting the learning curve again, ok it has some very nice pluses, ultimatley the choice will be yours, but I would try and get a session on the machines your looking at, it can be the best mill in the world, but if your not comfortable with it,it might as well be the worst

theyre called a waste of time, the log will split radially, unless you actually seal the ends with something waterproof, even then ..no garuntee

go to your nearest agricultural dealer, explain what you want, and he will be able to provide 6 spline to straight adaptors, these normally have a length of 1 1/8" straight ( depends on which supplier how long this is, pillow lock bearings are available of e-bay, as are shaft couplers, a little bit of cobbling together and you have your shaft extension, Ive done similar on several occasions to power various things off the pto

all timber is dangerous, the fine dust particles that come of whatever you are doing can settle in the linnings of your lungs, and being organic can start to cause all kinds of problems, from a mild cough to full blown lung cancer.....just learn to be aware of what your doing and the envioroment your working in

bit difficult, but the need to explain to the client that a RA, and MS, cannot be done unti you are actually on site and can assess the actual live conditions, and because of the type of work, the RA will remain fluid throughout the job as conditions change, what might be a safe operation just now, might not be so in 20 mins if the wind changes, or removing certain limbs changes the danger zone........its very difficult to get people to understand how the nature of this type of work doesnt lend itself to actually writing a procedure down on paper and sticking to it

the wean will treasure that forever sir,

ha ha ha, monkey puzzle = fuzzy felt , dosent matter what you use, its going to be hairy, its just the way the timber is made up keep going, enjoy yourself, and treat it as a learning curve

a one day course will only touch on the basic operations on the mill, the art of milling timber comes from years of actually doing it, learning how to read a piece of wood, how it will twist as its cut, how it will give the best usable yield, how to actually just move it around with the least effort, what tools work, what doesnt, ~Iwas thrown into the timber world at a very early age, both uncles were joiners, my father worked in the furniture industry, most of my early toys were made from wood.......I must admit ~I rebelled and became an engineer, but came back to my first love, milling timber, in the wood, is somewhat theraputic, whether its with an alaskan, a chainsaw mill, or the bandsaw, to see something emerging from a pile of sawn logs that you are going to build a usefull item with is fufilling, thats why I am saying just get out there and do it, as long as its done safely, there isnt really a right or wrong way, only your way, and if it works for you, then thats the right way

if in doubt change the blade, better finish, prolonged blade life, easier sharpening, if you think the blade is getting blunt, once youve completed a pass and its stopped rotating, a little touch on the back edge with a thumb, see if it feels hot, it shouldnt

what is wrong with everybody, have we become a cotton wool wrapped society, what did your forefathers do, "sorry we cant do that, we dont have a bit of paper for it", no, they got on with it and did it, ........watch you tube, ask questions on a forum, but most importantly, get out and do it, actuall hands on learning, time on equipment, and dont give the PC group any ideas that we might actually have an opening to scam more money of people and design a "ticket" for milling, or that'll be the next expense

nearly all the vans on the road use a steel wire or rod between the internal handle and the locking mechanismn to work it, its just a case of knowing roughly where that wire or rod runs, cutting a hole, reaching in and pulling it....voila, door open, whether its a slider or a back door

as pelerin says a bridleway is for foot traffic and horses.....says nothing about cycles, as long as a person can walk unobstructed, and a horse can traverse the route, so it doesnt mater how muddy it is, just make sure any transverse ruts arent too deep..... and remember, cyclists dont actually have any right on the bridleway

the thing which dictates cutting speed more than anything when milling is the chains ability to clear chips, next thing is the top plate anglefrom arond 0-5' for hard woods to10' for softwoods, raker depth is linked to angles, power of the saw head is also a factor. the thicker the chain, the m,ore power required to drag it through, this is why the 3/8 picco chains do so well, you are going to have to experiment with these things to find which set of variables suits your style of milling, and be aware that hardwoods are not all the same, some cut easy, some are like toffee, and some are just c***s

have a look at the 10th anniversery woodlands mills, lots of "new" bits, and an increase in cutting size, Im still running one of the early ones and it still does what it says on the box, simple, well built, solid, and plenty of adjustment where reqd