agrimog

this, again, is a drive by those not actually cutting the timber to legislate and make money out of someone, some of the points I do agree with, those requiring actual hours cutting to progress, but as you get older, and the experience grows, the wish to, and the need to clock up those hours decreases, but you never forget what you have learned, and this needs to be recognised as well, not just insisting that you need an "x" amount of hours......this will force a great deal of knowledge out of the cutting industry, and a few numpties willing to kiss ass becoming so called assesors........the forestry industry in the uk is screwed at this time, unless you want to play up to certain large contractors in scotland now, you wont work in the forests, this has been tied up tighter than ever since the forestry commision scotland was shaken up, and this is no more evident in the amount of small sawmills that have folded due to being unable to get timber......big boys not playing fair and keeping /disposing of it to suit their needs and profits...........if H&S, get there way almost all tree cutting will go the same way......they dont like anything that they cant control, if you want proof, look at building sites......a ticket for every task...., and not even a std for that....all I can say is thank god I'm coming to the end of my cutting and milling career, because in a few years......unless your employed by one of the big conglomorates.......your not picking up a saw

trigger andy, thats the same as mine, pre woodlands re-branding, you can modify it by making your own adjustable slder plate, the further up the arm you position the lifter bar, the quicker it lifts the head, when I first started using mine, it took ages to work out what was happening, if I went deep enough to clear the gullet, it took the top off the next tooth, back it off so it didnt touch the tooth, lump left in the gullet...etc, I finally spoke to an old guy who had been sharpening badsaw bands for years and he explained how the cam is timed and how to set up the shape and lift.......now, near perfection, a few thou right down the face, round the gullet and lifts clear of the back slope and clears the topsby around 25-30 thou, I can alter this easily by a slight movement up or down the arm for more clearance or to dress the top of the tooth if they become to hooked

not on the mill, but a seperate standalone item, like a chipper, or stump grinder

heres an interesting thought for the boffins back at woodland mills, a sawdust briquet making machine, everybody seems to be looking for ways to get rid of the masses of fine sawdust produced by the bandmill, how about a briquet maker, Ive been looking at various "home made" versions on that demon, you tube, mosk of them seeming to originate from eastern europe, but oh so simple in concept and construction........the basic theory is that you squeexe the swdust down a tube of dereasing size until the force causes the pressure to rise andheat to build up to a point where it cases the lignum in the swadust to melt and bind it all back together again, it then squeezes out the end like toothpaste, hardens in the air, and breaks of into chunks that you can burn.........very efficiently I might add. There seems to be 2 styles of forcing the sawdust along the tube, 1., a hydraulic ram, which cycles back and forward pusshing the sawdust, and 2., an extrusion screw, which runs constant doing the same thing. So, woodland mills, how about something nice and simple for us milling timber, an electric motor, (or ic version), turning a feed screw, fed from a hopper, and squeezing out briquettes for our stoves(or for sale....depending on how much you mill)

I used the electric saw once, at an open day held by logosol, and back then, if I had had acsess to 3 phase power, thats how I would have been sawing......reasonably quiet, the motor whine and the actual chain cutting are loud, but fast, I reckon the chain speed is about half as fast again as a normal saw, and the torque is there from the minute it starts cutting, plus, how many chainsaws do you know that have over 10hp , it is the way forward with chainmills

the 8kw speedsaw on the M8 is quick, but a bandsaw would be quicker still, and this from me a logosol user, (I also run a bandmill), electric bandmill all the way, only lube you need is water, and on fresh larch of a reasonable size you should get around 3-4 hours a band before resharpens........your only problem is space, your soon going to fill it with stacks of timber

a bit ofhelp here guys, got a friends saw on the bench at the moment.....could not get it to run worth a damm, pulled the carb off it and theres no gasket between the carb and the pot?, it was supplied from the dealer like this, is this correct, its a husky 435, so a good quality purchase.....I hope, and on a follow up, where to get the relevant gasket, quickly, his firewood pile is dwindling quickly in this weather

aye, strange one that on the lifting cords, rough hewn, been there as well, tried everything, but nothing seemed as strong, or as stretch resistant. interesting to see you going for the 0' angle as well, Ive found it gives a great finish, but slows down the operation a fair bit, for most hardwoods now, if I'm using the logosol , depending on the moisture content, its between a 5' and a 7' grind, good green stuff, you can get away with the coarser one, most of the cutting is on the bandsaw these days, when I can actually get in, everywheres a bloody quagmire at the moment

nice video, noyiced you switched from clockwise winding the winch to counter clockwise, I find that more natural when milling as well, the string logosol supply with the kit, swap it out for some paracord, the little bit of give in the paracord smooths out any variation in your winding, makes the cut even smoother, start the cut, wind in hard, then just keep the tension on, the saw will find its own feed rate, ......loving that bit of yew, really nicely figured, just a shame there was no blue or purple in it, keep up the good work

due to the hasstle factor of moving pictures from this file to that, changing sizes, formats, etc, if you want more piccies and a couple of videos.....go to east ayrshire woodlands projects, theres a whole load on there from the very start to the state we are in now

right, what is it they call them, scandanavian kuska, or sumat like that, very nice

aye, and hes taken the easy route.....my rafters all mate to rafters, no steel work, and then rafters running from the corners at 600mm spacings(hip rafters) which are the real ba++++ds, the compound mitre saw wont cut them, you have to cut the long angle first, them either cut, or plane the 2nd short angle........lets just say theres a good supply of firewood now sitting from the tryouts. that looks like hes going to have a very nice cabin when its built.....like it

with the woodlands mill, its often safer to replace the metal log stops with wooden sacrifical onesif your going to be doing a lot of down to the base cutting, and a couple of blocks that fit from bunk to bunk and stick down allow you to clamp without worrying about hitting them, getting down to that last inch will depend on how well you set up the lifting cables on the head

oh and yes, its got 6 sides, and do you know how difficult it is to work out the compound angles for rafters, and no the calcs in the books dont work...........lol

so, it was decided, lets build a cabin for group projects, we'll get the voulenteers to help, it'll be easy, they say, ............ah, yes it was back in january when I laid out the groundwork, and built the base, lots of help and everybody interested, then WHAM everthing goes into lockdown.......move forward to may and two of us get started again, couple of days a week and voila......we nearly have a cabin.......the HM 126 has cut an extraordinary amount of larch for this thing, now a bloody expert in wany edge clading and roofing, and my "assistant" is confident enough to have built his missus a little she shed in theyre garden.........just one photo on here, if your interested, go to east ayrshire woodlands projects on facebook for loads more......

not another paperwork excersise on unrequried courses........if you can cut and sned up a tree, your more than qualified to mill it up

remember at around the 5 hr mark, do an oil change, get rid of all the running in gunk out of your engine, and if your going to run it through the winter, a good quality 5w/30 oil back in

when not in use do you leave the head in the travel position, thus loading the indespension units......this could be the reason they have failed.......they are not designed to be left loaded for long periods , my own mill is sitting with the wheels only just touching the ground and the weight carried on the jacks, this is the way it was designed to work

36" bar regularly on my 660, sometimes not big enough for that mid log cut, or a big crotch, if you feel the logs to big for the mill, put the mill on the log, yes, invert the setup and work upside down......it does work, especially for real big stuff you neat to split down

try finding your nearest thornebridge timber merchant, they do a 200m min order, a lot more sensible

Its just I mix up big quantities of "lube" at a time because my mill is seldom close to a water source, so I use the same summer/winter mix, thats the only reason theres always IPA in it, now all Ive got to find is a cheap way of having compressed air on the mill to blow down after a days milling....lol and Im not buying a leaf blower just for that !!!!

IPA= isopropanol, same stuf as the cheap screenwashes have in it, and what they've been pushing as hand sanitizer, it acts as an anti freeze in the winter and along with the cheap soap breaks down the "stickiness" of most of the saps and resins, I mill a lot of fresh cut sitka, and although my hands are covered in that black sticky sh*t, there never seems to be any stuck on the blade, its just a case of getting the right flow rate

about half a cup of cheap washing up liquid to a gallon of water and in wintera half cup of IPA, that will work for anyything your milling, and if your really worried you can use any of the "green" washing up liquids

I have a 20mm kevlar core lying here to splice in an eye.......hoping it might just go away....lol

used to get this regularly when I milled with the M8, took ages to figure it out, only tended to happen with new chains, soon as the first sharpen on the machine it tended to dissapear, I found that attention to detail was paramount, every tooth has to be identical in angle and length or it will create a different cut groovethe more variation , the bigger the ripple, this i s what made me go to a grinder to ensure everything was the same