agrimog

johnsond, good luck on your build, and have fun locating box for the bunks....lol....its a non prefered imperial size, ok in the states, but shit in europe........I know, I've had a look, it is available , but not easily, and look closely at your rail tops, again an imperial size, but they've been cut, not sure if plasma or mill, devious these canadians, as for the m16 bolts, these, as far as I could work out were just a handy size for making the leveling legs....size doesnt really matter as at that size, nearly everyhing is a 2 mm pitch

hi johnsond, I run an older 126, surpriseingly mounted on the new trailer that woodlands brung out(yes it does fit, but requires some mods to the mill and trailer for the match) I too, was a little concerend with the size of the holes whenI first built it, but was surprised that all the bolts supplied were of grade 10.9, high quality high tensile bolts, a bit of an enigma, but when the whole mill was assembled, including 1 extension, the oversize allowed just enough tweeking to bring everything into true alignment, coming from an engineering background I know from past experience that tight tolerance holes dont allow this fiddle factor, and have had to in the past dissasemble structures and "open" out holes, woodlands have obviously taken ths into account when designing the structure, the one other thing this allows for is should an accident occur and something heavy either falls onto the rails, or strikes the rails, they can move a little, and can then be reset with minimal tooling or damage, tight holes would not allow this, but would cause something to bend somewhere in the structure.......what would you rather do, slaken and reset, or remove and replace and then try to reset. the other thing about the mill when I bought it, i built the trailer to the drawings available, it was ok, but after seeing the company produced one and seeing various reviews, and talking to some of the users, the mill was removed and built into the new one.....in so much that the mill rails and trailer become one continuois structure, not a set of rails sitting on a trailer, this was always a worrysome piont in the original trailer/mill hybrid

client local to me, Im up to my eyes at the moment

if size of the log is putting you off, there is a way to mount the mill to the log and work things upside down, sounds daft doesnt it, but it does work, I've used this way to knock down some massive bits of beech with my M7, at full log bunk retraction you can take a 16" cut, width ......how long is your bar (36" in my case), and by taking 4 cuts, squaring off the round, (rolling the tree rather than trying to roll it on the mill, you end up with a square cant and 4 slabs of a "workable" size, ok an alaskan, or a big mill might have been easier, but then straight into dimmensional lumber without to much grief is what makes the logosol so handy.......I now use mine for mostly the bigger stuff 24"-36" to produce cants for the bandsaw, really speeds things up

now thats spalted.........very nice, think of the bowl that would come out of the half round

aye, your kind of right, not growth rings in the sense of timber rings, but as in different stages of sporolation of the fungi, spalting is normally found on timber thats been lying on he ground and depending on how damp the conditions, how quick the spalting spreads, I've seen beech felled and left lye on the roadside(hardcore), still be good in 4-5 years, and other stuffleft in the shade on grass and soil being stringy pulp in 12 months, its very difficult to gauge just when to cut, but, myself, when ever I see the white stringy fibres on the surface of the wood.....It's milling time, and depending on the gods and he colour of yor socks....beautifull spalted boards........or stock for the workshop stove

spalting is normally the black fungal growth rings and lines that follow the slow decay caused by moisture inclusion on felled timber, it also occurs when the standing tree is staring to rot out, particularly noticeable on the lighter "white" timbers, but will occur on any species, if left too long the surrounding wood will turn mushy and soft, its a fine line between "spot on " and firewood...........the joy of when to mill that log.......lol

not spalted as such, its the heartwood staring to rot out,......at a rough guess the tree is around the 250-300 year mark, and used to be a beech hedge, get an awfull lot of that round here

anyone in D&G or ayrshire interested in a milling job, large oak buts, already down and in hardstanding yard, owner needs them milled into 8x2 timber, 4 buts 4ft, 5ft dia, and 10-12ft long, I just dont have the time at the moment, there is mechanical handling kit on site. would suit lucas mill or big alakan

see what its like in the morning, and if its too full take some out, just keep an eye on it whilst working

hydraulics tend to self bleed, so yes most of the bubbles will come out, but if its been overfilled, there no space for the return fluid to go and as its coming in at high pressure it will cause the tank to foam up

branch loggers are wonderfull bits of kit, I have a smaller one, 80mm, bought direct from poland as a cassete, and built into a machine for a small compact tractor, it goes into the pine plantations with us and most of the brash goes through it, the amount of usable firewood that comes from what most treat as waste is amazing, Id love to be able to justify one of the largr models, the time it would save on branch wood from larger hardwoods would be unreal

I dont supply equipment, I run and operate machinery purchased in this country, with the so called CE marks, and intended for use in forestry and agriculture, but I only employ people who actually can think for themselves, use common sense, and realise that in any situation where its man v machine,......the machine IS going to win, and dont ever get there, stop, walk away, stop the equipment completly, fix the problem, then restart, dont ever rely on mechanical or electric safety devices......they WILL FAIL, it doesnt matter how good they are

flatpack, hardly a feed chute and a couple of other bits to assemble, then set the height for your particular tractor, not a lot, but then if you dont mind paying the supplier a couple of grand to do this with your " premium other make".. fine, and safety CE compliant, yes, its been tested in europe, has feed controls and all the important bits, but, and this is the big thing, the guys who designed this machine actually thought that whoever was going to operate it might actually have a bit of common sense, yes that strange thing thats so missing these days........pto driven equipment has been around almost as long as theres been tractors, yes it can be dangerous, but so can crossing the street these days, a very good friend of the old school training put it very plainly and rather well..........you cant make everything idiot proof, they'll just build a better idiot.......which when operating dangerous machinery is very apt, if you dont know, dont touch it, and as some of my warning stickers on open drives, blades, and power transmisons now say...... not only will this machine kill you....it'll hurt you the whole time its doing it

woodland mills, yes its made in china, no its not shite, built to fill a void in the market, two canadians were pissed off being ripped off by the big guys and stared having good quality equipment produced in china to fill the need for reasonably priced kit, .......it does what it says on the box, hasnt got the fancy frills, and your not paying for the name or the ceo's fancy holiday

or accept the fact that anything fitted to a tractor pto is dangerous, could kill you, and treat the machine with respect and dont expect a bi of wire to make up for any stupidity when operating it

leegray, as most of my stuff is farm and forestry, good old NFU , not the cheapest, but the least problimatical, and no paperwork reqd(they cover all my agri stuff when trailed on the road in a similar way)

this one does start a quandry....cs40 &cs41, delimb and top the tree, leaving what is effect a pole, a monolith, which is then arguabley not a tree, it has no branches, it has no leaves, its a big stick stuck in the ground.........what assesment to cut a big stick, makes you start to think .......I have had this out with jobsworth H&S idiots before whilst milling.......there is no requirement for any qualification to mill timber with a chainsaw, and once the first cut has been made, it is classed as dimensional timber, where, again, no requirement for any qualification to use a chainsaw, read the guidlines carefully if you dont believe me......the "H&S" experts were adament that I did require paper qualifications, till they were told leave the sight as they were incorectly dressed and any delays would be billed direct to there department from a very high up company person.....problem solved. in some ways I am for continued training and development, its the only way to get better, but when as now, Im coming across "instructors" who have breathed air for less time than I've thrown saws about, and much as I hate to say it, I've forgotten more than they are trying to teach, and as for the quantity of "tickets" required......its now all about the money for the training establishments , the latest ones........assesing a windblow site, no sawing, no clearing, just looking at a site...., someone with a ticket still has to come out and do the job.......the mind boggles at the, i was going t say idiots dreaming these up, but that would insult some of the idiots i know.....

thats the other one they cant get there heads round.......wheres your method statement and risk assesment...........my usuall reply, in my head, as I dont employ more than 2 people I have no requirement to actually put one down on paper, and anyway as this is a job on a piece of living moving timber, the risk is constantly evolving as the job goes forward, do youwant me to stop and write a new risk assesment every time I do something that changes the situation, no problem, I'll adjust the charges accordinglly

overall length is just under 18ft, the drawbar adds around another 5 to the overall length this is with one extra set of rails on it, I tow it with a, the mog, b, my lt van, and c, my compact tractor, set up time depends on what surface you have on site, it can be as litle as 5 minutes on good level hardstanding, to 20mins-half hour if I have to f**k about on an uneven soft bit, you soon get the knack, a 4ft level and a 10ft straightedge are a must, as for type approval.........its not a trailer, its a specialist machine, the trailer and mill are integral to each other, the two bolt together and thats one of the reasons its so strong, the mill isnt sitting on a seperate chassis, its very clever, so no type approval reqd, and as for insurannce, ask your insurer, mine just said its a trailer as far as were concerned, and your covered

leegray, I can assure you the woodland mills trailer is anything but "cheap bent metal", it is one of the strongest constructions I have built, trailer wise, for years, most of the material ranges from 6mm plate, 8mmplate, and a massive 10mm plate in stregnthening points, the indespension units are way better than even the 3.5 ton units sold in this country and it comes with proper high load wheels and 10 ply tyres, even the bolts supplied are all 10.9 high tensile ones, cant see any uk or european manufacturer doing that, and as for weight, my hm126 over my own calbrated scales.......735kg ready to mill

I think youll find the answer to your question in your question..."the schools H&S officer....., ask the said person is it there interpretation of the wording, or ist it actually goverment H&S policy, I've had this problem with councill officers before and they like to think they are all powerfull, all that is reqd is to point out, they do not have the authority to change policy decided above there pay grade, and as they do not understand how the nptc assesment schemes work, then get someone superior who actually does, a sideline mention of malfeasence in public office usually installs some fear

windblow is not a subject to be taken lightly.........its 90% thinking and 10% cutting, you need to understand compression, tension, twist and roll, and if its multiple windblow multiply by a factor of OMG, it always makes me cringe when I see courses being offered going sraight from starting up through medium trees, windblow, multiple windlowand so on done in a fortnight, how the hell are you supossed to learn how timber reacts to different forces, how fast, or slow to cut, how placement of cut by a few inches, or degrees difference can make major changes to reaction forces, or how a winch, or snub line can be your best friend, or worst nightmare, how multiple heavy limbed hardwoods react, and how conifourous poles behave.........it comes with experience and actuall time on tools.........I have said for many years, a return to a system like the old blue book is reqd.......you cant sit an assesment for the next level up till you have an appropriate amount of hands on time, actually signed off by an older experienced mentor..........yes it would stop a lot of people coming into the industry, but it would weed out the good and competent, and more imprtantly, it would reduce a lot of the stupid accidents that seem to occur these days..........just my thoughts and I am certain there must be others out there with similar thoughts

not a penny shall be given.......theres still over 95million quid sitting in the bbc accounts for children in need(or should that be peodaphile pension fund)

any of the manydiy build sites can suply alloy extrusions, roller guides, guides, etc, all you are doing is building a two axis track frame, theres even sites out there show you how to do it in plywood