spudulike

I know ADW likes my Husky porn😉!!!!

Taking down the depth gauges does cause "chatter" when cutting so leaving them slightly high will help if this is the issue.

Sorry, it was a joke, one of the machines I had in that had....issues!

You could try one of these ventilated covers 😃: -

Nice little comparison, better than some of these vids comparing ported MS200ts against MS201TCs with no clarification on what work has been carried out on the ported saw - a 6mm hole in the muffler isn't really ported in the real world!! Nice job and like the use of new chains!

One issue I have seen on the older 560s is that the oil pump comes loose on the two mounting screws and this takes out the oiling worm pinion. The upgrade redesign was to insert brass internal bushes in to the mounts on the new oiler which allows you to tighten the mounting screws up fully and the mounts don't collapse. This would cause an oiling issue but ADW will know the build levels on the 562.

I wonder if the bar studs have come undone slightly and the cover nuts are now tightening on the shank of the bar stud! .....Possible or not?

But if you clamp the fecker hard between the cover and bar mount, how can any delamination make the cover come loose? The only way it could come loose is if one part of the laminate fell out somehow - did it fracture? I just cant see how the nuts come loose if they are done up tight enough. I am talking using a 10-12" tommy bar and socket and doing it up to "pretty tight" and not little scrench tightness where a limp doing up may come loose. How does the OP tighten his bar? Genuine question.....is the bar pretensioned upwards on tightening?

The coils are limited and you can't really call that cutting as the saw must be damn near max revs!

Almost impossible to see what you are talking about and not helped by using a saw at full tilt to do extremely light cuts but understand why seeing some of your work......nice BTW. Is the chain too tight? I usually get a screwdriver behind a cutter and spin the chain, it should NOT stop dead but spin on for an inch or two. I go back to the engine mounts - if you take the clutch off and take the inner cover off, there are two large head T27 screws behind it, both are engine mounts and should be tight! This is a common fault with the top handle saw, not seen a rear handle one yet. Saws do four-stroke when revved flat out but is difficult to detect on these small saws, may be worth checking the air filter is clean - solvent and compressor and also open the H screw out fully to the stop.

Not being funny but if the pump is dispensing oil to the oil channel and it isn't making it to the chain, the oiler hole in the bar is either blocked or the hole doesn't line up with the oil channel - wrong bar. Have you tried using the bar the other way up.....after clearing the oil hole in the bar. I can't understand how the nuts are loosening if they are done up tight with a socket and tommy bar. I wouldn't even expect heavy vibration to cause it unless they haven't been done up very tightly.

Sounds like the carb is OK then. Was the gauze strainer checked? Both flywheels and coils can't be faulty - very strange one, difficult to pin it down without inspection.

You are talking AV mounts, I am talking ENGINE mounts - the screws that hold the engine to the plastic cradle. If the stop switch is working, they are probably OK.

Does the stop switch work?

OK, sounds like is getting fuel then........ possibly the needle valve in the carb is stuck open. Does the saw still fire, has it fired with this flywheel and carb setup? These sorts of issues are difficult to sort and often, you just eliminate parts being faulty and the only part left is the route cause.

Ah...80s Britain, do you find they work better with a bit of Rick Astley going in the background😉 Glad to see my dating was bang on!

Those marks on the piston and bore are very strange. Is the ring location pin still in place on the inlet side? I don't think they will effect compression as they look to be below the exhaust port roof but are strange, not something I have seen before. The fact the plug cap to ground is measuring continuity is probably enough to show the HT lead is OK. ADW mentioned the match between coil and flywheel, on some saws, there are a number of flywheels and coils available. If you don't use the correct combination, the plug can spark at the wrong time and the saw will never start. He will know the correct combination and if your part numbers are OK. It looks like the top end is OK, ring end gap is fine, this leaves fuel and ignition. Issues tend to be fuel related but some saws can have inherent weak coils. Was the plug getting wet with fuel when you were pulling it over? Did you try a bit of WD40/carb cleaner/GT85 down the carb to see if it would fire. When the carb was stripped, was there a decent amount of fuel in the pump AND metering side of the carb?

Possibly a bar nose issue. These 150s do get front top and bottom engine mount issues and you can usually tell from the stop switch failing to switch the saw off!

Feck me...lift lid and throw them in.....they can't be factory tools....they remind me of my days in 1980s production! I reckon you are a Husqvarna tool collector......have you got one of their Mincers?....I found one once at an antique fair, I wish I had purchased it! Nice oil pump tester😉

I recently did an MS200t that would spark across a 7mm gap with a good spark, it had a slight break in the HT line and under compression wouldn't fire at all. A new HT lead sorted it. 120psi is poor, very poor. I would expect at least 150psi with 170psi being good. This measurement is a bit subjective as different gauge types give different readings. The first pull can tell you a lot about the real state of the engine. If it doesn't make 70psi + after an energetic first pull then something is amiss! ADW has a reasonable😉 experience of Husqvarnas so it is worth taking note of what he said about the match of flywheel to coils and coils giving issues!

With the Husky, you can reset it to default with the CST software but you must run it full tilt for a few mins to reset the AT unit to what the engine needs. Don't get hung up on the reset as it is a bit like resetting your car radio to factory - you then have to reset the bass and treble up to max and mess with the balance.....saws are the same, factory default is just a known starting point where the saw will run. You could try putting some Aspen or Motomix through it. These fuels degrease my bench well when it spills so would imagine it may well purge any old oil from the carb. It is possible the oil has hindered the needle valve or the fuel pump, hopefully it will clear in time. You can sort of understand someone doing it on a small top handle when the tanks are close together but on a fuel tank on a ground saw.....what a d!(K.

High BTUs on the Euc, it has a lot of resin and good heat!

I think there are a lot of families thinking the same!

Probably Corona and it's effect on the supply chain. Parts have been slower over the last month or so. Not made turn around times easy this year but most goes out in two weeks or under and local stuff can be as soon as 24-48 hrs if in for a general repair not needing too many parts!

Currently booked up until sometime near the end of Jan so just adding each customer to the growing list and telling them when to send kit in at the moment!