spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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You can remove the carb and remove the top and bottom covers and see where there is fuel and where there is not! Lack of fuel if carb related is probably the choke not closing or the metering arm being too low. Lack of fuel can also be caused by a massive air leak in the crankcases, seen it where the cylinder has become loose but is much less common. Personally I usually just go through the carb and clean, inspect and replace anything that looks iffy and it is rare the saw doesn't fire after this.
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Just the thing for today's weather!
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These are the old school checks and very reliable, you can check the front of the piston through the exhaust port or just lift the saw by the recoil starter and see if it holds for 2-4 seconds at TDC on each compression stroke. Spark is checked by earthing the plug on the cylinder and pulling the saw over fast. Fuel is checked by pulling the saw 10 times with the choke on and seeing if the plug is damp after this. The most likely issue is with the metering arm being set a little low or the diaphragm going a bit hard. It is very possible that the piston may have seized or partially nipped up. Coils tend to be pretty reliable.
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I want the old Arbtalk back....not the website but the ethos
spudulike replied to beechwood's topic in General chat
I am Spud and here is my photo....... -
The bad bit about Mtronic is lack of idle adjustment so if the saw gets a bit of wear and the idle falls off, you can't adjust it. The good bit is the fact they constantly react to the changing conditions and usage plus they do offer a bit of protection if the saw develops an air leak. Maintaining the autotune saws can be more hit and miss as you don't have the luxury of screws to fiddle with. The 461 is a decent machine, similar to the 661 inside.
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Any one know what this machine is?
spudulike replied to MattyF's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
Looks like something Matty picked up from a dude down the local after a few pints.....or is that too many -
Very generally, you can usually clean the bore on 660s and get away with a quality piston rather than the £200 OEM pot and piston.....done a fair few now.
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Have you let the Mtronic set itself by following the manual. If not, do it, if you have then take it back to where it came from as these machines, when new, shouldn't do this.it is relatively common on older machines but not so on new ones.
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Just tach around 1,000rpm lower than the max factory recommended and all will be about where it should be. Tach with the bar usually used on the saw. As said earlier - the figures you were using was where maximum power is developed and not maximum revs under no load.
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Is 35 too old to start a career as a tree surgeon?
spudulike replied to Hound-Dogg's topic in General chat
Some of this depends on the financial backup you have. If you are leaving a job and have got a good financial safety net then it makes life easier than going from a full time job with no savings and expecting to make the same £££. -
Second that and you can often pull out the impulse line and then the machine will idle fast and possibly seize if left unchecked! Seen a few with mounts and impulse lines pulled out.
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Just needs a good service, perhaps a full crematorium service or an exhumation if you want to spend some money resurrecting it!
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I have had worse in for porting
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There are three issues with top handled saws: - 1) They can be used single handed 2) Your hands are too close together when using one "two handed" in comparison to a typical rear handled saw 3) You typically use one up a tree where you can be tempted to use it at full stretch, right in front of your body and in often far from ideal conditions I love em and hate em - love them as I like working on them, hate them for the ease which they kid you they are as safe as rear handled saws!
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The Kart is constantly moving through the rev range so acceleration is key. The chainsaw needs to hit the power-band and keep there so the acceleration up to the power-band is less important and is probably only important for snedding or similar. The inlet port should not be overly polished as some turbulence in this area is good to mix the fuel and air. In fact many manufacturers put dimples on their inlet manifolds. The chainsaw really needs the ability to hold the revs in the cut and under load rather than have better acceleration up to that point although a modified saw will often achieve this!
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Been inside a MS661 this week, first one I have done! A machine where lots of small things can be done and won't know how it has gone until it returns to Ireland and is used in vengeance. The saw has one of those annoying forward facing ring pins running down the side of the exhaust port. You can leave out the ring and go to town on the port but decided to keep it as it was. Very strange port design, most modern exhaust ports slope aggressively downwards helping the scavenging process, this one is upward facing and really don't get that design at all....very strange. Time will tell if the work has been worth it!
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How I miss working on your saws Matt
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And broke free again in 2006....blimey, you don't get out much do you! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Husqvarna_Group
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Looks like good condition compared to some wrecks customers send me for porting!!
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All you need to do is match the capacitance in micro farads and the voltage of the capacitor and you should be able to just swap it out. I found one for my compressor on ebay, around £10.00! I would imagine if you put "starter capacitor" in to ebay, you may find something like this - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LCR-COMPONENTS-MR14-440-CAPACITOR-14UF-440VAC-Starter-Cap-/292187471347?hash=item4407bafdf3:g:6UgAAOSwnHZYiOVk Worth a few quid to see if it gets it going IMO.
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I had to get a large screwdriver behind it to prise it off as it was going nowhere - reminds me a burnt flapjack, just doesn't taste as nice!
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Mmmm, a dishwasher wouldn't shift this stuff, you literally have to cut it off and use a milling bit to grind between the cooling fins! There WILL be a cleaning surcharge on this one!!
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Here is what I mean, one well used MS200T, don't think it has ever been cleaned, another face full of grease and chip Before and after images!
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Not that I am an expert but my compressor stopped working some time ago, it would make a sound and then nothing. The capacitor had failed and my understanding is that it gives the AC motor a kick in one direction so it starts going in the right direction as without it, it just sits there juddering a bit!
