spudulike

Fine if you were a dictator and had control of the local thugs, not so good in a democracy where everyone had an equal say.

Tis a bad thing to open up a muffler on your chainsaw, it may end up in porting your blower, strimmer and hedge trimmer

Shame the location isn't in the Avatar by the side of our posts like it used to be....Stevie B.....how about a tweak?

I guess if my village were building a house using the people within the village, others may think that it was a great community idea and want to be part of it but unfortunately, the village is small and only has limited space to live in and food etc to feed the inhabitants. I think if I were project managing the building of the house or even part of the community, I would assess the skill set of the village and perhaps interview outsiders with the skills the village didn't have and take on the ones that would get the job done faster, better and to budget. Seems logical to me!

No good for me as I am North Hertfordshire, anyone else nearer Glasgow?

It has been a month now, would have thought the OP would have fixed it by now!

Where are you? Perhaps one of our resident techs may help out? Reckon it is time all members listed the county they are based in, it may help when asking for saw technical advice then someone local could help out. You may be in the next village...who knows!

Chopped my leg off today, only a flesh wound

Bit more Red Rocket than FS1E! Bloody loud, think it is crisper than the McCulloch 595 and 1-40s I have that pop out flames!

If it doesn't idle well, there is a mechanical adjustment on the carb but it isn't that obvious as on normal carbs. You need to make sure there are no other reasons why the saw isn't running well like the piston isn't damaged and the carb components are OK but beyond that, it may just need a new AT unit as they do fail.

I was just making a statement on the taxation on cash gifts and liability on taxation - one way or another tax and death are the two certainties in life!

I have similar with a 261 and find that if you are not careful, they are easy to flood. When you start them warm, you are often better not to start it on full choke but leave it on the normal running position. Go through the normal anti flooding procedure - plug out, upside down, pull it over hard for 10 pulls. let it dry overnight, stick the plug back and try to start again. Only do the choke for 5 pulls and if it doesn't pop, hold the throttle open and pull the saw over hard with the throttle held full open and the decomp out - redneck style! If it is still bad then it is possible the AT unit is cocked or the piston is a bit iffy!

It is about the loudest I have, fitted the tail pipe to quieten it and it worked a treat

Had some time on Monday to play with my 066, this is the one where the Red Eye coil failed and I fitted an aftermarket MS660 one plus it has had the full works and an expansion pipe fitted. I had tried it and it was a bit flat TBH. I re-measured the ignition advance, this is done by fitting a timing wheel, marking the flywheel and marking the crankcase or fitting a scale like I did with TDC, 10, 20 and 30 degrees on it. You then fire up the saw and strobe it with a timing gun. Bugger, it was running at around 40 degrees rather than around 30 The spec states 27.5 - 32 degrees. Refitted the flywheel and double bugger, it was now at around 50 degrees The scale needs to be re-graduated each time the flywheel is moved on the crank but it was 50 and kicked like a mule. I have fitted a decomp - a Husqvarna large holed one that makes it a little easier to spin over. Did the flywheel move again, there is no key on the crank and adjustment is a bit hit and miss but the scale and a piston stop helps. The measurement this time was 30 degrees and checking a normal MS660 was 25 degrees so am happy with that, the extra advance will give more torque and a brief go showed it seemed to go much better.

Perhaps your Mrs has fried the Credit card buying your Christmas Present

Inheritance tax on cash gifts is tapered in so much as if you die a few days later, you get full tax but as time goes on toward seven years, the tax reduces to zero at seven years or more.

https://www.ft.com/content/3ddaff78-fb68-11e6-96f8-3700c5664d30 I find that people tend to fall in to Property, Equity or "going to spend it all" category's depending on what they have been involved in during their life!

That's called hedging I believe

That's life with all investments, gauging the time to pull out or just stick with it if history has shown that recovery will come good in the long run. With Bitcoin, there are no rules and no history so consolidating decent gains may be prudent but what do I know. They may keep climbing or collapse overnight and never come back, it is all unchartered ground!

Not sure if you are asking a question but that is correct, any money paid in to a pension will get tax relief with pension payments to a maximum of £40K. Anything over that will not incur tax relief. If you are self employed, as I am, any payment in to your personal pension will get tax relief using the methods as I have already stated. I was PAYE employee for many years so had to go through how pensions and self employment work.

A profit is only a profit when the investment is cashed in for cash in the bank.....same with all investments!

NO, it works for all pensions as far as I am aware. I am self employed and my earnings are taxed through self assesment then I pay some in to my pension and they then get the tax back and pay it in to my pension. The other method is to pay earnings in to the pension, don't get the pension company to retrieve the tax element and then declare the pension payment on your self assessment and you won't get taxed on that part of your earnings. If you do both the above, it is fraud and you may get done if caught so make sure you only get a single dollop of tax relief!

I did mention this when comparing Pensions and ISAs, worth another mention though as many have a mental block with investments.

On paying fees for investment - I have this view - if I invest £100 for a year and the fella gives me back £130 and takes £5, I am pretty happy. If I invest £100 and he gives me £90 and takes £5 then I am pretty unhappy. Focus less on the fees and more on the performance and bear in mind that you can invest directly with most Investment Fund Managers. Avoid the Bank type ones and some of the real big Assurance type companies unless their figures pan out - This website is useful - https://www.trustnet.com/fund/price-performance/t/investment-trusts?tab=fundOverview I would stick with larger funds in UK or Europe investing in large companies, I say that as large companies do well in volatile situations and larger funds are generally coveted by the Fund Managers - not rocket science really. New kids on the block may give great performance for short periods but the long game should be a better approach. There are a many companies out there that many probably haven't heard of but are well known investment institutions used by most financial investors - Jupiter, Schroeder, Hendersons, JP Morgan to name but a few!

Well, what did we expect. I don't climb but rate the MS200 but it does have its faults, mainly carburation but I can test and fix those as the guys that have had their saws fixed my me can testify. The early MS201s were shyte and they can be remedied as well, the later MS201 auto tune models are a lot better but still reckon a decent MS200T will lash it and get told the balance of the MS200 is best. The T540XP....a bastard to work on, a bit farty but OK when warm. Weak on the AVs but relatively sorted now. The impulse and manifold connections are a bit fragile and the overall design is a bit complex. My choice is always the MS200T due to the fact there are loads of spares available, they are easy to work on and cut soooooo damn fast once ported.........never did yours did I Matty