spudulike

VEC - Indian, Hyway - Chinese

But only if you hit your head against them when they are difficult to light with all that wet wood!!!

And probably costs around 40USD to manufacture!

Glad you sorted it, guess it was the "turning it around 180 degrees" suggestion that did it! I have put enough in MS200 and 201s so know you have to turn them round like this. Glad it helped.

Flat out for short periods as I said a few days ago, this maximises the early bedding in of piston to cylinder and limits building up too much heat that can cause issues.

Agree and read my last post on my comments about my definition that fuel is "what goes in to the fuel tank" and not just petrol! Think we have been dancing round different terms. Thanks and goodnight.

I apologise for the dumb and dumber bit as obviously your comments come from a background of bike racing rather than the misguided comments to be found on the internet as I thought was the case and is generally so with many. When I talk about the fuel, I am talking about a mix of oil and petrol being fuel and not petrol by itself. What I was saying was that if you had 100mg of fuel (Oil + Petrol) going through an engine in a minute then if you upped the oil and decreased the fuel, you would still have that same amount of "Fuel" going in to the engine but you would have more oil and less fuel and wouldn't effect the volume of air so describing it as LEANING the fuel air mix was a bit misleading. I think you are thinking I am calling fuel just petrol and I am clearly not, fuel to me is what you stick in the fuel tank and not just the petrol content as I think you are taking it to be......I hope so as I want to get some sleep tonight! Anyway, perhaps one day I will have to try two different fuel mixes in the same saw and measure the temp of the top end and see what happens, at least it will prove what is fact and I learn every day.

Try getting needle nose pliers on it, turn it round 90 degrees and see if it will come out, if not, try 180 degrees. The stop needs to be turned once in and think it is normally 180 degrees from memory. Make sure the piston is away from the top of the cylinder to make it possible.

You misread my post, I was saying that we usually talk about "LEAN" meaning more AIR to FUEL MIX entering the engine. I was stating that adding more oil reduces the amount of FUEL and increases the amount of OIL in the total engine charge and not the amount of AIR entering the engine thinking the fuel mix flow wouldn't be effected. It is damn difficult to say if the check valve is effected in any way with a greater amount of oil in the fuel thus reducing the fuel mix coming through it. I would have thought the flow and viscosity of such a fluid mix would be negligible - at 25:1, it would be far more having a greater amount of oil in it and would also think the oil was more viscous in those days. The TZ would have slide carbs, am guessing Mikuni from my past and these would probably react in a different way to a chainsaw carb - slide, needle and jet rather than check valve as on a saw. Good to know you have a decent background, we are never going to prove the flow characteristics without a lengthy trial but my take when most people come out with this statement think somehow that the saw will be taking in more air because they are adding more oil! I guess it would be interesting to see if a 50:1 mix makes the cylinder hotter than a 40:1 mix or vice versa - pretty easy with a laser heat gun. Something to do on a quiet day!

Used those stops a fair bit and they seem to work OK, perhaps not seated properly. I would try getting it out via the exhaust port, probably the easiest otherwise the top end will have to come off!

It is usually crud build up or the centre pivot on the chain brake handle end. If the clean and lube doesn't work, I did recently have a MS660 in recently where the part of the handle that pulls the knee joint upwards had cracked the bottom of the round lobe end of the handle making it impossible to pull the brake off in the normal manner.

Man....this is like Groundhog day, who is this fella with the info? Dumb or Dumber Sure, adding more oil makes the saw run leaner but not like the conventional fuel to air mix that can make a saw overheat. Your mix will still be the same fuel to air, it is the fuel to oil ratio that changes and this wont overheat a saw. Proof - try a 25:1 mix in your saw, it won't rev well, will smoke like a chain smoking tart and wont get anywhere near overheating!!!

Ah, the old "run in" question..... When the piston, ring and bore are made, they aren't all quite perfectly round and they also have rough machined edges - not that rough but rough enough. These rough edges, if moved against each other for a long period produce excessive heat which is bad for a two stroke. The answer is to move them against each other for a shorter period of time but flat out. The reason to use a saw flat out for short periods of time when new or a new top end has fitted is that these rough surfaces don't stay rough for long so you have a small window of opportunity where all the parts rub against each other and wear to each others shape until they all fit each other perfectly. If the parts wear quickly to shape, you get better compression and a better running engine. The worst thing you can do is to take it easy as the parts will lose their rough surfaces and the engine will glaze over and never seal as it should!

The TCM probably needs the solenoid changing - it normally knocks out the idle first! Possibly the gauze strainer as well.

I call them feckers if they don't spark!

I take it that the machine isn't the TCM Mtronic version? First thing to do is to put it running on the ground with the brake on, stick your foot on the white engine top and then flex the handle around to see if that kills it. If it does it may be a wiring issue or hose issue depending if the saw dies immediately or revs go up and down a bit. If the saw only dies under load, check the gauze strainer as the most likely issue. If you think it is the kill circuit, take the recoil cover off and disconnect the kill wire from the coil and try again.

Are you sure it isn't the contact breaker..............what year are you from, we are on coils, ignition modules and Autotune, the days of condensers, trigger units and contact breakers are gone unless you are running vintage kit,

Common fault on the older 560s, as previously mentioned, locate all the crankcase bolts on the flywheel side and crank them up as tight as possible but avoid stripping the thread or snapping the bolts. Done a couple like this and seemed to work OK.

I think he has "a vision in his head", if you can get an image of that, I am fooked

Sod the top handle, where can I get hold of the hottie, got lots of saws that need polishing I think the OP said NO to wanting a top handle so it is a smaller ground saw I believe!

If you look at the original fitment of the bearing in the case, you should be able to tell how far the bearing needs to be pushed in to the cases. You could use a set of verniers to measure the critical measurements. It may be an issue but if you are aware of it and have the confidence to do this sort of repair then you should be OK.

Typically the bearings go in to the cases and then the crank goes in to those, the exception being clam style engines of which this isn't one. I haven't split a 61 but ADW is a fair bit older than me so am sure he will be along soon with his old man tales

As ADW says, get the multi meter out and check for continuity. You may find someone has fitted a non generator flywheel or the magnet has detonated - also possible that the handle or tank have been swapped out, just check for the wiring going in to the handles and for the generator - if it isn't there, you don't have heated handles.

If you have a spark with the saw in its cold and hot state, Try pulling the air filter cover off, look between the air filter back plate and the cylinder on the clutch side and make sure the breather hasn't become disconnected from either end. These machines are a bit rare but have seen this on a couple of them. Symptoms would be a fast idle, screaming a bit at the top end and a tendency to die on opening the throttle. Not what you have but worth a look at...unless that coil has popped!

Fitting an 8 pin will give you more chain speed but will only be an advantage on a shorter bar or on smaller diameter wood. Explore longer bars or start pushing harder and it will be easier to stall especially on harder or larger wood. I found on a heavily ported 357, that an 8 pin was good up to 8-10" wood, beyond that, a 7 pin was faster on a 15" bar.