spudulike

Not getting any better is it! Seems all the local village churches down here are being stripped of their lead roofs now....perhaps they should weaken the joists.....wouldn't be far to bury the body!

Generally I use a decent scwrench done up with a good amount of force or a 1' socket and bar for some larger saws I am returning to customers with a bar attached. I have no idea of your experience and knowledge hence trying to help but think I will dive out of it from here on!

This could run and run. Not sure using a screwdriver and box spanner is good enough and he sure doesn't look that beefy. I would have thought if you cranked a plastic cover down hard, it would just bend if it was catching on the outer edges. I would also estimate that if this saw was on my bench, I would get to the bottom of it in minutes, perhaps seconds as would probably many others!

The bar clamping action is soooooooo basic, not much can go wrong! The flange of the stud may catch on the inner cover around the stud hole but this has been investigated. The studs may not have enough thread on them to clamp but this is fine. Other fittings may catch the cover - been discussed. The cover may be too proud on its other features but if it was, cranking down the bar nuts would have an obvious effect but this has been discussed so.....how are you tightening the nuts? If they are really done up tight - 1' socket wrench and a bit of welly - how loose is the bar? Very, slightly??

As I said, if it has fuel and spark, it most likely will be compression. Sounds like it has seized at some stage!

It can't be that difficult......can it??? If the bar is 0.5mm thinner, are the stud threads long enough to tighten the cover down fully as both look a bit worn?

The leaks and fuel line hardening usually happen after a few months to a year. A saw may run on it immediately but have seen a number of saws with annoying leaks when held vertical or on their sides. It will happen but is just the lack of petrol hardening the rubber - it won't happen on new rubber parts and only happens if the saw has been run on petrol for some time.

Probably just needs a check over, OEM coils tend to be pretty reliable and usually either fail completely, have some weird sort of running pattern all the time such as not revving out or fail after a short running time and only work again after cooling. Try bending the END metal electrode away from the middle centre electrode and if it will spark across around 5mm, the coil is probably OK. A bit cheaper than a new coil and AM ones are a bit hit and miss in the main! Most issues are down to the carb so personally, I would get a new FULL kit in it and set it up/test it so I knew this was OK. Aspen is no silver bullet, I have had a few customers ask if running on Aspen will sort out a running issue. If it runs crap on Petrol - it will run crap on Aspen. Aspen will clear out carbon on an old engine but is likely to cause carb issues and leaks down to the lack of petrol swelling the rubber but will be fine after an initial "changeover period" and replacement of rubber parts.

I can't believe it, got a text asking how the saws are doing. He got a response I would normally save for Joe Newton? At least I now have a mobile number for the bloke!

Try compression being the only major left!

Bit worrying the recoil rope being out like that but £100....either nicked or a bargain!

Damn....those lapels, surprised he didn't take off!

Most sprockets spin off clockwise (left hand thread) unless there is a separate securing nut but this is generally found on vintage saws only. If you can't shift it - Use a big air impact driver - it will shift it PDQ.

Stick your tongue on it, that will let you know if you have a spark!!!

Kill switch engaged Pull the handle harder View the plug in a darker room

Two main simple cash to investment options, pay in to a pension and get the tax relief or pay in to an equity ISA with taxed money and don't pay any tax when you pull the money out. ISAs can be cashed at any time, Pensions - you can drawdown 25% of your pension at 55yrs but it will impact on your final pension income. Most would take a drawdown to retire early to bridge between retirement and receiving the Government pension. It all just depends on how flexible you want your retirement to be and what works with your mind-set. The very simple rule is that the earlier you start, the earlier you can finish. Planning a pension at 40-45 years is 20 years too late.....unless you are a budding drug smuggler!

Where is Mendiplogs when you need him!

My repair/porting work bounced back quickly, seems Easter and the following bank holiday slowed things up with everyone taking holiday. Got back up to full speed straight after and now rammed, loads in and loads of enquiries again.......bugger!

It shouldn't need loctite if the bolt is torqued down well. Some threads get a bit sloppy and if a screw keeps coming loose then Loctite is an answer but you should be OK. Just check in a couple of months time.

Make sure that they are all cranked down hard but guess you probably have, glad you found the issue.

Check the impulse line (rubber hose coming out of top if carb) is still connected both ends and if so, make sure the fuel line is OK - not so easy without a pressure tester but both of these have happened in the past. The impulse line sounds more like your issue and if it is loose, it may be worth fitting a new one. Worth making sure the piston looks OK - you can do this by removing the spark plug and using a very small torch to inspect the bore or just removing the muffler and looking at the piston through the exhaust port. You may be better taking it to someone decent, seeing you are South Devon, a fella named Barrie who owns a company called Gardenkit (and also on this site as Gardenkit) knows his stuff and is a good fella - he is just west of Sidmouth and worth giving him a bell if you are stuck.

The "pig to start" is a worry, if a saw does this then it needs checking over. Usual start is checking the compression, checking the carb and then doing a vacuum/pressure check if the rest has been OK. Saws shouldn't suddenly change their idle speed and maximum revs and if they do, it needs sorting ASAP.

I have PMed - in the OPs hands now!

Battery chainsaws, what will they think of next.....fuel injection perhaps?

I usually also make sure the top end is original Stihl, it will have markings cast in to the bottom of the cylinder and a stamp on the top of the cylinder if original. I still see many nice MS260s floating across my work bench in very good condition so they are out there if you look. If it is in good condition then £200 is reasonable.