Rob D

Hmmm... not a fan of the solid noses on long bars - no idea why Stihl have stayed fixed on making these when they make a 59" sprocket nose bar.... Nose always gets hot then the chain tension starts to play up - goes really tight, you loosen the chain then suddenly it's falling off the bar.

Buy Jon's one... Or buy one from here - no 36" bars really come that cheap as they are all solid stihl construction. Guide bars

There are full chisel chains here with no anti kickback features ie. unguarded Custom chain loops This is your best option rather than changing the sprocket.

They sound good - sprocket noses? - can you stick some pics up? GB make orange bars so could be by them....

I think they were looking to snatch the top but didn't have proper pulley or gear to do it, the top goes over and starts dropping - the lowering rope catches it but then the rope supporting the lowering rope snaps. I think..... but does look horrendous.

That looks really good - exactly what I was thinking... (as in pic below). Maybe standardized to run on a set size ladder... Would be more stable than the mini mill is at the moment and you could run down both sides if you needed to (ok the size of the tree may not co operate in that way...) There is I think a way of having the mini mill rails on either side of a ladder - although you would need something in the middle to support that side of the mini mill... so as in Steve's pic the Alaskan runs squarely on both mini mill rail sides. I'll ask again about getting the mini mill rails in one length rather than x2 foot sections... Mortens way of fixing the ladder is good in that you can also mill in line with the middle of the log...

Yep well spotted! so I suppose the slot is the same as the MS880 etc slot....

And finally here is the fit up guide for the spacers. I have only applied to the D009 mount - large Husky mount - but you can use the other springs to adapt Stihl bars to other mounts... although I am not sure of the details of these ie. re drilling of oiler hole, tensioner hole etc. Hev bar mount info.pdf

The next stage on from this will be I'll be getting (will take another 4 months or so) Sugihara Husky mount bars for the 346, 550 and 560 etc all those saws running .325 .058 - that will have .325 .063 guage. This means even if you run a combo of Stihl and Husky ie you have MS261 and Husky 550XP - you'll be able to use the same chains from one to the other rather than having different chains for each. (Although you won't be able to swap a bar from one to the other as the mounts are too different). So if you make your own chains up then you'll only need to have one roll of chain not two. Also further down the line I'll have some universal mount bars in 18",20" 24", 28", 30", 36" that will have the oiler hole pre drilled to 7mm - these will be more universal mount bars which will also fit rarer mounts - all that will be needed will be spring spacers.

Recently I bought in a load of these spacer springs and now have them up on the website here for £3-00 Products for the category: Bar maintenance tools If this is all you want to buy and nothing else then use the code FREEPOSTAGE as a voucher when checking out. The idea is to start to standardise your equipment. This will work on chainsaws that use the D009 mount ie. large Husky mount with Stihl saws using the D025 mount. So for example - if you had a 25" Stihl bar on your MS441 and you also had a Husky 390XP you can use the bar and chain on both chainsaws. The oiler holes line up with no adapting. Also it means you only run one type of chain so in the above example you would only need to have 3/8 .063 chain for all your mid range saws rather than 3/8 .058 for Husky and 3/8 .063 Stihl. The only think you may have to do to the bar is drill out the tensioner hole from 6mm (Stihl size) to 7mm (Husky size) - at least I had to do this for my 372XP.

Chainsaw milling is a great intro into the world of milling timber and there's a lot of people out there that prob wouldn't have ever milled timber if not for them (inc me!) I'd stick a fresh thread up titled 'mobile bandsaw required (area you need one)' as you'll have more chance of getting a reply. With bandsaw milling the disadvantage is you will need a way of getting the logs to the mill - sometimes this is just not practical.

Have had a look in the oregon manual - not much showing up but some of the larger echo saws seem to have this mount. It's the E086 that tells you the type of mount.

Cracking bit of carving there Dave!

I no longer do treework - but (and I'm sure you have posted many times before ) - could you put a link up to the process of becoming arb approved and costs involved again?

Nice to see the process being simplified as much as possible Paul.

You can put a 16" bar on but it won't be fast! Guide bars

They look ideal for milling - less chance of losing them as well!

Phew! A few £ worth of lego there!

And I expect the bars are due as well - check for chain slop in the bar - when you next get new chains get a new drive sprocket and bar at the same time.

Very smart!

Snapping chains almost always = knackered guide bar and/or knackered drive sprocket. A worn drive sprocket and guidebar can be used way way after they should be - but really they should be regularly replaced. Factory ground chains are actually not as sharp as you can actually do yourself with a file - they feel lovely to use as all the teeth are the same length and all the depth guages are the same height...

I'll be selling my Peterson at some stage in the nearish future - it's the same one as in the ebay listing ie 8" WPF with high lo rails... Has x8 blades. But I need to finish processing up the wood in my yard first - there's a fair bit of greenheart and the Peterson is the only mill that will cut it! I'd be looking for £7,000-00 +vat

Good stuff - always good to see timber being used.

I know a lot of sap but nice colour and also doesn't seem to be any shake... I'd pay £70-00 for it if it was within 5 miles of me...