martwizz

Try putting in specific terms in the tags that might not be in other tree videos. For example 'GRCS' is not very common, so that highlighted one of my videos more than some. You could try putting in the specific models of the saws you used, brands of helmet, etc. This way people searching for these specific things are more likely to see the video. Otherwise, as above, facebook, arbtalk, business website, twitter etc

I think that it is coming out between the cage and bearing rather than at a point in the seal. I've looked up a video of the product Johnny linked, and it looks like the right sort of direction. A £100 tool that I can use again in future might be worth it if it saves me replacing bearings at the cost of parts + labour.

I've tried to purge the grease out of the suspected contaminated bearing but have no luck, the grease only seems to purge out of the bearing directly behind the nipple and not around the entire area. I tried purging it when warm, the blocked bearing was noticeably hotter to the point where it was uncomfortable to mess around with, so I need to tackle this before the problem worsens. Are there any steps I can take to attempt to clear it without having to dismantling it entirely? Degreaser to clear it out and refill? Blast it with compressed air or jetwash? Sorry if those ideas seem stupid, I don't have a great engineering background! Cheers

Thanks for all the info guys, I'm going ot have another close look tomorrow. I'll remove and clear out both nipples, and potentially blast the galley with compressed air to see if there is any blockage, then have a go at pumping excess grease through to try and clear out the bearing. As Johnny said, its the right side which seems to be a bit blocked up at the moment, as it takes the majority of the contaminant.

I believe the 2550xp is the 38-44hp model, 2150 is just 27hp with 2WD. I've been looking at buying a 2550xp for some time, just trying to build up a good amount for a sizable deposit. There are a few good videos on youtube of the 2550, and a few members have them in this forum. It looks great.

Hey guys Since I first started until yesterday, I have always used a greasegun to lubricate roller bearings 'daily' as instructed by colleagues and stickers on machinery. I simply pump until a bit comes through the seal, assume its full, clear the excess and carry on with my day. However I have been reading about machinery lubrication, and it turns out that overgreasing is a huge reason for the deterioration and failure of roller bearings. Overgreasing means that the bearings glide instead of rolling, which compacts the grease and squeezes out the base oil. The soapy residual grease that remains doesnt have lubricating qualities, so the joints wear and heat up, which causes the wax to harden. From here a variety of issues arise, as you can imagine. So as a first point of call, to everybody who didn't know about this, now you do, and its actually pretty important. One of my employers had a flywheel bearing change on his timberwolf which was in a horrid state, and in hindsight it could well have been a result of overgreasing. Now a question for the members who knew and are mechanically minded: Recently, when I've gone to grease the main flywheel bearings of my HB20, I've noticed that grease no longer seeps from the entire seal, and rather just from one point near the nipple. As mentioned before, I greased it before every day of use with a greasegun. It doesn't seem to take nearly as much in as it used to either. I have concerns that my negligence of correct lubrication may have started to lead to the aforementioned issues (build up of hardened waxy grease). Its important to note that there doesn't seem to be any excessive vibration, heat or stiffness (yet). Is there a simple way that I could clear out the bearings and re-fill them from scratch? WD40, or white spirit, or petrol? Its not something I want to take to pieces myself at this point. Cheers boys!

A few of my favourite before and after pics from this year. All done with a Bandit HB20 Images not doctored in the slightest

What's the weight of the entire thing? Needs 2 people to lift it I assume? I really need something small for those impossible access jobs, there needs to be some sort of commercial grade alpine magnum (which seems to be impossible to get hold of these days)

Just weighing in quickly here - I got both through college. The woodchipper I think isn't really necessary, but I'd say that the grinder would be useful if you are planning on doing a lot. I feel that the potential for injury or damage through kicking up rocks is higher with a grinder, particularly to third parties, and if it does happen then your insurer may be happier if you can show qualifications for it. Every man and his dog can use a chipper, and beyond shoving your hand down it, there shouldn't be any real danger to the public. Depends how much instruction and pieces of paper you want for your own peace of mind really!

Tracked 2550? <3 <3 <3 I have to wait a bit longer though Dean, decided to get a second hand minidigger first, as I wont be able to afford anything for a few years once I take the plunge for the big machine on finance! I guess you could say its 100% the plan still though. Gotta keep myself motivated! Make sure to get plenty of pics + videos of it for us

Just some quick feedback for the next iteration dean The cutter wheel housing really needs to be hinged so it can be opened and cleared easily. At the moment I have to use half an old garden shear to get down alongside the wheel and scrape it out, and this needs to be done after every day. Before the shear discovery I used a mattock head. I have yet to find anything else that can get down the gap. I think the bigger machines are on a hinge, even if it was bolted down it'd be a HUGE advantage. If a conversion to the chassis could be made to accommodate this alteration, I'd certainly consider paying for it.

I have an osprey talon 33, best pack I have ever owned Goes on a plane, 33L so big enough to travel/hike/camp, shrinks down small and loads of pockets and stuff. Also looks cool. [ame=http://www.amazon.co.uk/Osprey-Talon-33-Backpack/dp/B00521LMYK]Osprey Talon 33 Backpack-Onyx Black-ML: Amazon.co.uk: Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41fYdTrYQ-L.@@AMEPARAM@@41fYdTrYQ-L[/ame] looks big but thats because they stuffed it full for the photo!

Hey Stephan I set up grinding about a year ago. I regularly spend a few hours on google and find all the local gardeners/builders/arbs etc to send letters to. By doing this I have secured a few good contacts, although I would say that the success rate for a letter isn't very high. I expect a lot are put straight in the bin. Even those that are read often have a few months turnaround. I really see it as an initial step into breaking into the market, just to get them familiar with my name and services. I would be careful with the commission/finders fee. I started doing this initially, and luckily I chose to only offer it until 2015. Many of the people who provided me with work decided to just share mutual benefits and favours rather than exchange cash which was great. 10% of your turnover as a finders fee is a huge lump in the big picture, and you might find yourself increasing prices to offset the finders fee you are losing. Aside from letters, give out plenty of extra cards, go out and flyer areas (I only drop things when I can see a stump from the road, I dont like to harass people). Problem with door to door sales is that 40% of people may have trees, but probably less than 5% have a stump, let alone want it removed. So door to door sales are a waste of time + money. Below is an example of the most recent letter I sent. Its useful to highlight the advantages of stump grinding over other methods, and also why you are better than other providers. https://www.pdfhost.net/index.php?Action=Download&File=dc960495db4d72085a27af11d44d7296 I actually have a set of different letters aimed at different markets. For example, builders need the advantages highlighting that makes it worth their time, where as tree surgeons may understand and you need to talk about expanding the services they make available to their client base. I feel like I've come a long way in the last year and started out similar to yourself, so feel free to ask any questions

Hey guys! My first year of trading alongside my freelance work has gone really well, next year I plan to invest in a much larger stump grinder and start chasing down some commercial work, contracts, building sites, subcontracting for other firms. After the big stump grinder, I'd want to get a 1.5t digger. I was hoping to get an idea on any additional things I can work towards that separates me from the average 'man and van' outfit. Examples of what I am talking about might include: CPCS card, arb association approved, environmental policies, ISO numbers, things like that? To give you an idea of what I already have set in place: - NPTC quals - FDSc + ND Arb - Arb association Tech membership - PL + Tools Insurance - Generic risk assessment + method statement - Website, FB, Twitter, adverts, networking + marketing strategy - Local 'buy with confidence' scheme registered What extra boxes have you taken the time to get ticked, and was it worth it? Thanks!

Liked all above https://www.facebook.com/wissonstumpremoval