Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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It's a lovely timber to saw - so soft and quick - what you going to use it for?
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Only really the oregon lo pro - but really that chain is only rated for 50cc saws... although that said people seem to use it on more powerful ones...
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I was thinking that Si - but perhaps a 16" Quarter tip rather than toonie for mid Stihl mounts? And 16" quarter for mid Husky.
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I'd agree with that - I buy all my saws off Jonsie - if there's a problem I send them back, they get repaired and sent back to me. It's painless and easy - I suppose because I'm used to using couriers... but courier sites are getting better and easier to use to send parcels... What happens when a large dealer offers a free pick up/free postage back service with a max turnaround of 5 days or similar? Or less time even? I know that won't cover mowers/ride ons but it can't be far off - there's plenty of sites that let you send chains back for a quick turn around on a sharpening service...
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I think the trouble is as in the amazon example you can now sometimes get what you want quickly... And I'd say that a lot of small dealers are indeed well grounded in common sense.... but they are not moving with the times... ie. just doing some of the modern basics such as good website, using the internet for advertising etc. There's plenty out there who don't use the internet and would rather do things face to face - but this seems to be the older generation... what happens as they start using the internet more/and the next generation come through? .
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A lot of the states in the US do not have VAT or the equivalent... (there's 20% straight away). A lot of manufacturing is still done in the US still hence no import/export costs to deal with. For some reason it is cheaper to send from the US to the UK rather than the other way round (not sure why and varies from courier to courier - only a small % but makes a difference). The main thing is that prices are not fixed from the manufacturer to the retailer from country to country - ie. the manufacturer looks to charge what they feel the market will pay... There's not much to stop you from buying a load of saws from one country and importing them here - but where would you sell them? What about warranty back up?
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You can't sell things, make no money and stay in business or if you do then I can't see how you can offer any sort of service... Surely customer service is the way to build a loyal customer base? And exactly what are over inflated prices - retail price for instance? Not having a go at you in particular DN22 - but in my experience - if you make no money on something = poor customer service.... So how about those that sell very cheaply AND offer good service? IMO - chainsaws are like bread in the supermarket - very price dependent and sold almost at cost - yet rarely do you go into a supermarket and just buy bread....
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I would never alter the mix to being stronger - maybe spud or one of the teccies's on here can say why - but it can have the opposite effect ie. less lubrication not more... modern saws are designed to run on 50:1 - changing that mix will surely cause problems IMO.
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Always be prepared to walk away from a tree - there are too many that believe the myths of what timber is worth...
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I think it it just safer not to grease rather than grease... but I don't think the noses last as long as a result... but if in doubt prob best not to do it... Going to start a thread on this issue?
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I'd agree ref greasing the nose sprocket - it is safer not to grease it... I think the problems come from a) over greasing - filling the nose full of grease but not then turning it to work the excess out then revving gently for a minute or to.... b) greasing it after/before dressing the bar - filings stick to the grease... c) greasing it without using an air line to blow out the grease hole first - or you just push grit into the bearing... I don't think the grease attracts grit - how would grit get under the chain and onto the drive links when the chain is in use? If this was the case then the chain oil would do this... Hmmm... starting to hi jack this thread!
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Good work thinking outside the box - and a +ve outcome for ebay as a useful tool as well! I thought that cedar looked fine from the pics - ideal there is no clear up to be done and it's nearby.
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Have you done any where you've got a highly oiled and polished finish? Not sure how practical it would be...!
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Cracking work Dan - and I think you could be onto something... Keep sticking your pics up interesting to see the different woods and how they look.
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Yep I'd say the stiffest bars on the market
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Can you not? They are just the usual youtube type...
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Hmmm... not got any to hand...but managed to flog a few in the Christmas markets!
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Have got the 12" and 14" specifically made for the 200T and 201T. Light type solid bars, small replaceable sprocket nose - stiff and light with smaller nose for more control.
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Very impressive Dean Only thing I would add is some tables either side of the splitter - then you only ever lift the wood once and can work with it until all is split without worrying about bending up and down each time.... Wish I could build stuff like this!
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Pics would be good - yes if straight and clean it should be worth planking easily.... Any other details eg where is it roughly?
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Thanks Dan and Garden Kit In that case you can put in any saw eg. 560XP and you will get the correct results.... This will work for both bars and chains for it. Guide bars
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Been meaning to make some vids on carving for ages - I doubt this will teach any experienced carvers out there anything new but gives some background info on what you need ref carving.... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_rZOG6sszc&feature=c4-overview&list=UU9K0KfLNH84tuWi2VjlSlCg]Chainsaw carving - some basic facts and info - dime tip carving bars - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQpDvl9WiRM&feature=c4-overview&list=UU9K0KfLNH84tuWi2VjlSlCg]Chainsaw carving - Stihl MS192 CE sprocket change to run 1/4" pitch chain - YouTube[/ame]
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Hi there - I don't sell saws... Best thing to do if you're thinking of a new saw is see if you can find out what the oregon equivalent mount is - ie. a lot of saws take K095 or D009 - which are Husky mounts. This guide is useful - but can't see the Mitox there OREGON®: Selector Guide If this is the case then options are widespread and plentiful!
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That ash looks begging to be milled. Nice pics John.
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Ha ha - no worrys!
