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Rob D

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Everything posted by Rob D

  1. They are great - not perfect - but great! It took me a while when I first had it to get it right - in fact in this vid (pic below) you can see that I have the small chain clamps far too low - still worked ok although the chain tended to rock more... You can get into difficulties with it when you're in a rush - chain seems to stick etc... in that way it is an end of day tool (for me anyway as I'm always in a rush!) But when you get that chain right - wow - the difference from now and my tree surgeoning days (when if it cut it was sharp!).
  2. Yes it does a bit - in that as it narrows a bit then it doesn't do quite as nice a job... I tend to stick these to one side for damaged chains - use and abuse them to get rid of 80% of the damage - then finish off with a new stone works well and you feel like you're getting your money's worth out of them.
  3. Pleasure to all - thanks for the feedback - here's a few pics I've been taking recently and a sneak preview of some ads that will be running soon.... Glad you like the throw ins - reminder for all to put in 'arbtalk' as the discount voucher code to get these on all orders. If you want to see the bars in the flesh before you buy FR Jones is the only other supplier that has the entire range.
  4. Been a bit thick here... Part number is 36868X So oregon do have them in stock as as well... I have ordered a load and then change the rims over to 1/4" or 3/8" lo pro. Will put some pics up here and also list them on the website here in the carving sprocket area Carving sprockets
  5. Great idea mike and love the name! Would like to see it in action - I'm pretty sure I can see how it works - similar to a sack barrow? Does it still do ok in the wet?
  6. It was a staight Alaskan mill but all the drive stuff is modded - 72" double ended Granberg bar - they are beasts of things twice as wide in the middle... may have been an 84" double ended... Looks like it cuts flater than a normal sprocket nosed bar,
  7. I think it would be fine with one and a winch - I've been using my Alaskan 56" and on a 59" Stihl bar... Winches are the way to go - only a one man operation - and even then it's much easier than 2 men and no winch...
  8. Well done for organising it Steve - a fair bit of work I'd imagine....
  9.  

    <p>Not got the 16" bars yet Patrick - but may get them in - everyone seems to like to run 13",15" and 18" on those Huskys.</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>15" Sugi is £54-00+vat for the light type and £50-00+vat for the pro solid.</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Chains - there's a choice of 8 or so!</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Have a look here - <a href="http://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/chains/" rel="external nofollow">Chains</a></p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Postage to Ireland is £20-00+vat - expensive I know but you can order what you like for that...</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Cheers, Rob</p>

     

  10. Actually meant to put these pics up ages ago But I'm going to start a new thread with them on. This is a hydraulic chainsaw mill built by John lloyd - he's used it to demo at quite a few shows.... Granberg double ended bar and x2 oilers. Because it is hydraulic there is little noise. If you have any questions I'll see if I can get John to answer them... I don't know any details ie. cut time, is it faster, etc etc... but will try and find out.
  11. Have PMed you back Mark but the vid is here: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xyChiFTrA0&feature=c4-overview&list=UU9eV7377LRZ9H98BQowuSbQ]Using a winch with the Alaskan - first attempt. - YouTube[/ame]
  12. Thanks - I have an account with them - this will be a re badged oregon sprocket so if I don't have any joy with Oregon UK then I will see if I can get a load over..
  13. Ha ha! Good idea - as the ones I have are £355-00+vat! Products for the category: Double ended bars They only get made to order in small quantities which gives a high price... But if you did want one I would throw in a ripping chain of your choice and an aux oiler kit!
  14. Ha ha - good work - baileys have them I see... Oregon rim sprocket - very handy so then 3/8" lo pro and 1/4" are options... ....put that into oregon webshop - invalid material number! Not available in the UK - I will get onto it!
  15. I'd say you've summed it up there! I would agree with Alec in that the height adjustment system for the Alaskan is a bit fiddly - but then it does work and it does withstand vibration well... I would stay away from rollers - they sound good but Alec has already pointed out the cons - they ride over sawdust and I think you're making something more complicated when it does not need to be... Weight is important - with a big saw in the Alaskan it's heavy and although as you are using the log takes the weight - you still have to finish and start cuts... Personally I would see if you could get hold of a second hand Alaskan - then see if you can modify/improve on it rather than starting from scratch. But if you really are determined it would be worth looking here http://www.arboristsite.com/community/forums/milling-saw-mills.62/ on which there is a wealth of info.
  16. That would be slim I'm afraid - they don't do double ended bars - although now you've said it I have not asked if they can! But the max bar length I think would be around 4 foot if they did... I have got 56" granberg double ended bars - heavy wide things - but not cheap. Granberg don't make these and they are made for them to order (not sure by who)... but I have x6 at the moment and could do with shifting a couple. They have the 880 mount, and are drilled for aux oiler - so a spacer would be needed - which I don't currently have...
  17. Thanks all for the endorsements! Can't really add anything really - out the box you need to spend a bit of time in the workshop getting it set up (I use a jumpstart pack to power it...) If you try and use it out the box on a wet and windy day then it will seem fiddly and awkward... but once you have the hang of it it is such a good little tool for getting consistent tooth length... I file or freehand grind inbetween using it. I can't believe you haven't used yours yet Jon - You must of had it for 6 months now!
  18. A member on here is after a different sprocket for this saw ie. 3/8 lo pro or 1/4"... to run a carving bar.... Anyone know if this saw takes the same sprocket as any other older model saws?
  19. I'll testify that John's saws do get a very thorough workout in the most demanding conditions! I'll try and do that vid soon as well..
  20. Good stuff - yep they are lovely looking things for a chainsaw bar .
  21. I've just put a 28" sugi light type on my 395 - there is a bit more flex in it than the full solid bar... I've weighed them both and (I think) the sugi solid was 1700g and the light type was 1450g... Have done a vid which I'll post soon...
  22. +2 and I still remember Jon's gas story as well with a chuckle!
  23. Good on you eco for putting your money where your mouth is - wish you every success.... Try and get some vids and pics up as from personal experience this is what gets peoples juices running and also it's always great to see pics of people milling timber regardless of tool!
  24. I think bog oak is like walnut... is it worth what myth says? I met someone at a show a few years ago in Wales - they had a lot of bog oak slabs - everyone was interested - very few were buying... If for a few pieces to have as interest - def... but I suspect you will end up getting 1 cut per blade/chain. So unless it is for the interest much better milling something easier - is my ha'penny's worth! Maybe mill a bit just to see how things go and dip your toe in rather than 'right I'm getting this lot milled no matter the cost!'
  25. <p>All good Richard and throw in will be included!</p>

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