Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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Have you done any where you've got a highly oiled and polished finish? Not sure how practical it would be...!
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Cracking work Dan - and I think you could be onto something... Keep sticking your pics up interesting to see the different woods and how they look.
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Yep I'd say the stiffest bars on the market
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Can you not? They are just the usual youtube type...
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Hmmm... not got any to hand...but managed to flog a few in the Christmas markets!
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Have got the 12" and 14" specifically made for the 200T and 201T. Light type solid bars, small replaceable sprocket nose - stiff and light with smaller nose for more control.
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Very impressive Dean Only thing I would add is some tables either side of the splitter - then you only ever lift the wood once and can work with it until all is split without worrying about bending up and down each time.... Wish I could build stuff like this!
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Pics would be good - yes if straight and clean it should be worth planking easily.... Any other details eg where is it roughly?
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Thanks Dan and Garden Kit In that case you can put in any saw eg. 560XP and you will get the correct results.... This will work for both bars and chains for it. Guide bars
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Been meaning to make some vids on carving for ages - I doubt this will teach any experienced carvers out there anything new but gives some background info on what you need ref carving.... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_rZOG6sszc&feature=c4-overview&list=UU9K0KfLNH84tuWi2VjlSlCg]Chainsaw carving - some basic facts and info - dime tip carving bars - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQpDvl9WiRM&feature=c4-overview&list=UU9K0KfLNH84tuWi2VjlSlCg]Chainsaw carving - Stihl MS192 CE sprocket change to run 1/4" pitch chain - YouTube[/ame]
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Hi there - I don't sell saws... Best thing to do if you're thinking of a new saw is see if you can find out what the oregon equivalent mount is - ie. a lot of saws take K095 or D009 - which are Husky mounts. This guide is useful - but can't see the Mitox there OREGON®: Selector Guide If this is the case then options are widespread and plentiful!
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That ash looks begging to be milled. Nice pics John.
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Ha ha - no worrys!
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They are great - not perfect - but great! It took me a while when I first had it to get it right - in fact in this vid (pic below) you can see that I have the small chain clamps far too low - still worked ok although the chain tended to rock more... You can get into difficulties with it when you're in a rush - chain seems to stick etc... in that way it is an end of day tool (for me anyway as I'm always in a rush!) But when you get that chain right - wow - the difference from now and my tree surgeoning days (when if it cut it was sharp!).
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Yes it does a bit - in that as it narrows a bit then it doesn't do quite as nice a job... I tend to stick these to one side for damaged chains - use and abuse them to get rid of 80% of the damage - then finish off with a new stone works well and you feel like you're getting your money's worth out of them.
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Pleasure to all - thanks for the feedback - here's a few pics I've been taking recently and a sneak preview of some ads that will be running soon.... Glad you like the throw ins - reminder for all to put in 'arbtalk' as the discount voucher code to get these on all orders. If you want to see the bars in the flesh before you buy FR Jones is the only other supplier that has the entire range.
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Been a bit thick here... Part number is 36868X So oregon do have them in stock as as well... I have ordered a load and then change the rims over to 1/4" or 3/8" lo pro. Will put some pics up here and also list them on the website here in the carving sprocket area Carving sprockets
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Great idea mike and love the name! Would like to see it in action - I'm pretty sure I can see how it works - similar to a sack barrow? Does it still do ok in the wet?
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It was a staight Alaskan mill but all the drive stuff is modded - 72" double ended Granberg bar - they are beasts of things twice as wide in the middle... may have been an 84" double ended... Looks like it cuts flater than a normal sprocket nosed bar,
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I think it would be fine with one and a winch - I've been using my Alaskan 56" and on a 59" Stihl bar... Winches are the way to go - only a one man operation - and even then it's much easier than 2 men and no winch...
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The official raffle results in full
Rob D replied to Steve Bullman's topic in Arbtalk Christmas Charity Raffle 2013
Well done for organising it Steve - a fair bit of work I'd imagine.... -
<p>Not got the 16" bars yet Patrick - but may get them in - everyone seems to like to run 13",15" and 18" on those Huskys.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>15" Sugi is £54-00+vat for the light type and £50-00+vat for the pro solid.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Chains - there's a choice of 8 or so!</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Have a look here - <a href="http://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/chains/" rel="external nofollow">Chains</a></p>
<p> </p>
<p>Postage to Ireland is £20-00+vat - expensive I know but you can order what you like for that...</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Cheers, Rob</p>
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Actually meant to put these pics up ages ago But I'm going to start a new thread with them on. This is a hydraulic chainsaw mill built by John lloyd - he's used it to demo at quite a few shows.... Granberg double ended bar and x2 oilers. Because it is hydraulic there is little noise. If you have any questions I'll see if I can get John to answer them... I don't know any details ie. cut time, is it faster, etc etc... but will try and find out.
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Have PMed you back Mark but the vid is here: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9xyChiFTrA0&feature=c4-overview&list=UU9eV7377LRZ9H98BQowuSbQ]Using a winch with the Alaskan - first attempt. - YouTube[/ame]
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Thanks - I have an account with them - this will be a re badged oregon sprocket so if I don't have any joy with Oregon UK then I will see if I can get a load over..
