Rob D

As far as milling width you'll only get a max cut of 16" with the small log mill using your MS361 + 18" bar. you could increase this to 18" using a 20" bar. You will only get a 12" width cut using an Alaskan (because it clamps on in 2 places on the bar) and you can't just use one clamp as it does not pinch the bar securely like the small log mill does. With 18" bar you'll be pretty accurate with the small log mill. Smoothness of cut comes down to using ripping chain and good chain sharpening. May be a tad thicker (1/8") on the far end if you went to a 20" bar with the MS361....

I don't know Tom. I've seen a lot of the small bandsaws at shows and I have a to say although wasteful I find the chainsaw mills are more accurate. The smaller bandsaw mills will cut softwood alright but you put some oak with a knot or two on and they do seem to waver in the cut.

Course you're welcome and ask away! One pointer. If you have questions about PPE and chainsaw use in general the first thing you will have fired back at you is have you done the relevant CS qualifications. If you are planning on using a chainsaw in your woodland you need a) the correct equipment and b) the correct training. This is your first port of call.

Yep this has limited swing potential - you have about 3" of play! But it does also go sideways! Having trouble trying to find those big springs they use on swing seats.... any ideas?

You know about these other sites then Tony :001_tt2:

Hope so. I'm trying to develop what things actually sell. So far way out in front are coffee tables about 4 foot long, 14" ish wide with 3 rustic legs. People can fit them in their boot and drive off. I've made loads of big dining tables but they're harder to sell as unless made to order people have a specific idea of what they want. But more or less everyone has a need/space for a swing seat! Next one will have a frame made out of branches pinned with those long threaded bits of steel.

Also just seen the solid wood locks! Brilliant!

That's even better finished. Like the holes on the left... they somehow really suit it. Do they have a purpose or just aesthetic?

I'd mill it with your chainsaw mill as thick as possible then take it to a bandsaw. You'll lose a bit in kerf but would save getting a mill in. Post some pics up when it is milled!

Looks goods. May see if the missus will be up for it this weekend. Thanks for the tip.

Have you not got a mill to break it down with? Sounds like a lovely bit of wood!

Doesn't look bad at all. Is there height graduations so you know what thickness you're milling to?

I've done that before... It's so easy to get complacent and not back up and heart breaking when this happens.... there'll be more (and better) pics out there and now you'll be even more keen to get 'em!

No worrys - still a great chair though

Excellent - that would put me off from breaking in!!

Treatment wise Rustin do a 'cutting block oil' specially for this sort of board i.e. it's foodsafe etc. Technically they should be end grain up as Tom said it is less hard wearing on knives and closes up by itself. But your board will be fine. Drying wood is all about practice and experience... and even then it goes wrong sometimes!

If that's your first piece... very well done. I have loads of large diameter logs different species. You can google SO416DG and see how long it would take you to get down here. Rob

Fantastic mate absolutely ruddy fantastic!

Cheers. I have some good ideas for the Mk II

I have to handle once when splitting into vented bags. Then stacked in poly tunnel and delivered using swing crane/tipped from bag onto drive. The advantage is you can dry stuff down to 20% in 4 months. Fast turnaround and minimal handling. Logs in the round in anything past 8" is going to take a while to dry (2 years?) and it must be a bit time consuming stacking them so there's air gaps in between. Also you're messing about int he winter trying to uncover and recover them. + what happens if it's pouring with rain while you're trying to split them into back of truck? Customers don't like or trust the "it's only cause it's been raining it looks like freshly split wood". It may be seasoned and only be surface water but it still looks bad. I drop a covered bag off in the rain and briefly uncover it to reveal dry logs and they loves it! I also take a £5 deposit if they keep the bag and they then have to return the bag themselves to get the deposit back. If you can find a business open 9 to 5 to do the back reclaiming for you this is better for you and the customer.

I am with you on that.... indiscriminate pollarding and topping for every tree is totally unacceptable. But as a considered way of managing trees I think it's fine.

Sell it as mixed loads i.e. mixed hard and softwood and it'll fly out!

That is true Dean and I agree fell and plant a smaller species perhaps not in direct line of sight. But on the other side if they are happy to get into this cycle and have looked at all the possible avenues and this is still their preferred option?.... Are they wrong? What about France where pollarding is a regular thing? That's how they look after and maintain many of the street trees. Are they wrong? My missus is from New Zealand and I've been over several times. If you took the moral high ground and walked away from jobs because you didn't agree with what the customer wanted over there this would likely give you a bad reputation!

Advantage Tommy

I've done some very heavy pollards on trees that certainly weren't in the interests of the tree. I'll always point out firmly to the customer what I feel is the best course to take but if they have thought it out and are adamant and the tree is unprotected and or permission has been applied for I'll do it. It's not the norm and in 8 years I can only think of 3 examples of doing this but I didn't and still don't think it was shoddy practice.