Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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Thanks Mark. I know there's lots of long lasting stains out there but it's a clear finish I'm after. I've used all the Danish oils - Rustins is the original and I've found the best but as Alec says it breaks down outside. It doesn't flake but more leaves streaks.... Incidentally Rustins do a garden furniture oil with added UV filters but again this still breaks down over a year. Then they do an outdoor danish oil. This is a totally different product to normal Danish oil and is water based but again needs replenishing 3 times a year. Normal yacht varnish is good but can leave a thick coat and again you can't put on wood with any moisture left in it. Still looking like Le Tonkinois.... !
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Thanks for the indepth answer Alec. The Sadolin sounds good but also like the wood has got to be properly dry. While I think I'm right in that Le Tonkinois is micro porus and so you can get away with some moisture in the wood.
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Tried Le Tonkinois and it's not bad although still darkens the wood a little. It's my preferred choice of treatment at the moment though.
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It can be when the wood is not dry but I have used many clear treatments on dry wood and it never lasts a full year without flaking. There is a huge range of indoor clear treatments and these work well already. But it's an outdoor one I'm after. Sadolin now do this Sadolin Extra Durable Clear Coat - Clear Satin (1L) 241280 which I'll give a go next.
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I dont believe in Ghosts! So someone explain what going on in this photo!
Rob D replied to David Riding's topic in The Lounge
It's still pretty spooky! -
The dining table top is from the 2 planks I had from the show and also 2 of the wall hangings So your memory serves you well!
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Good point John I'll put another thread up in a second to jog peoples memories.
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I've tried quite a few different clear treatments that are meant to be for outdoors and none of them seem to last a full year outside. Does anyone know of a good clear treatment that will last a couple of years against the elements without regular maintenance?
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Give Andy Fellows a call on 07973846364. He gives a good price for the right walnut and will take it freshly sawn. He will come and view the tree quickly and will not mess you around. Looks a lovely colour in the pictures.
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Sounds like you have a superb tree there then Like Tom said you can sometimes find what looks like a lovely walnut butt only to be heart broken when you see how much heartwood there is
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I'd find someone who is interested in it before you mill it if re-sale is what you're after. But bear in mind not all walnut is good walnut. It depends on the amount of sapwood, colour of heartwood and presence of shake. I had a couple of discs off a walnut I helped mill yesterday that was the darkest and tightest ringed I've seen but it still had a lot of shake. If it's quality then it'll be worth good cash but if average then not a lot if you're looking to sell it on. Take a thin slice off the end of the butt and take a pic straight away while the wood is damp. This tells you if the wood is good, bad or middlin'
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I have done some research on walnut roots and called around gunstock makers and furniture makers. I cannot find any interested in walnut roots. Quality gunmakers seem to use turkish walnut from knee height then about a foot or so into the ground.... but turkish and kasikstan walnut is what they are after as it is better for gunstocks. I can't find anyone who wants to pay for English walnut root (I could of had a lovely one the other day as well).... Have you got some numbers of people who are interested in the root? If it's worth it I'll extract it next time.
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Nice Josh! I've not worked with a crane before (and prob never will!) but all looked to go well. Mind you I was thinking about all that lovely elm half the time!
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Well done on having a crack! I would look at the chain as 95% of the time slow milling is due to this. All the cutters need to be the same length and shape, the depth guages ramped and correct height. Guide Bar & Saw Chain Menu is a good site. A sharp chain is critical when milling and you know when you have it right when you're thinking 'this is easy peasy!'
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great idea
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It's called solar rez and I had to import from the states. You can use a catalyst but the good thing is it goes hard in 5 mins in sunlight so is easy to use. The normal use for it is surfboard repair.
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Yep just give me a call if you like on 07811611457
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Great post! Makes you then appreciate why they cost what they cost.
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It's a good idea but I think by the time all the bits have been taken apart then reassembled and you've bought the new bits (piston, cylinder rings, carb kit etc etc) you won't be far off the cost of a new saw anyway.... Jonsie is selling a new 200T for £357-50 + vat powerhead only. I think you'd need to be pushing a recon out for £250-00 max to get people to buy over a new one.
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Thanks for the feedback. Yes of course display on treet - any type of saw fiddlers are welcome! I'll have a look at the UK workshop site. Really I wanted to build up more wood sellers with lots of pics on treet. Otherwise potential buyers will visit the site - see there's not much there and are unlikely to return. So please get as many pictures up as you can find the time to post!!
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Alright Ben... yes I have a few pics and I'll put them up later.
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Just got as standard letter from them.... I have already got a site for Alaskan users to sell their wood.... and it's free... and uptake on people uploading to it has been absolutely abysmal! treet| Wood Forum I did a thread for it a while ago here. It's a very basic forum but my plan was to build up a load of small wood producers and then go to the woodworking forums and show the woodworkers where they can get their wood from. But there's so little on there it's not worth it at the mo.....
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Cheers Cracker. My small brain will probably rebel if we went into too much detail on chisels! Sounds like a broad subject in itself.
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Just looked it up and Stihl UK seems to say it'll take a 25" bar. Strangely the US Stihl site does say 32"...
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As above danish oil is easy to apply and hardwearing. Also you can sand it with a fine paper afterwards (240 +) and apply a wax over the top if you want a wax finish. Both will look good. With a wax you need to seal the wood first. Danish oil will work or you can put on a dedicated sanding sealer. Now does anyone know of an outdoor clear oil or treatment that lasts?! I've looked everywhere and tried a lot of things and no clear treatments seem to last outside
