Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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Cool! I'd love to have a few dead elms to tackle!
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With the dead elm I've had (and same for walnut) the heartwood is a lot duller and hasn't got the really strong colour that fresh vigorous stuff has.
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Ho ho! I know but it would still be nice to reciprocate! I'll have a think on it....
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I've thought of this Steve (adding a link from my site) but the only thing stopping me is that I offer Arbtalkers a 10% discount. This is a genuine discount that I don't offer anywhere else. People spend a lot of time on my site researching what they need and so if they see a link to arbtalk, also notice they can save 10%, then join arbtalk just to get the discount....
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It's a shame H and S haven't got the balls, means or method of dealing with more of the cowboy tree surgeons out there :sneaky2
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It's a good opportunity but as Mark says you need to cover yourself. The trouble is with arb work is you have to do a lot of it to pay. You'll have to get your own 3rd Party as you say but also if someone is helping you employers liability. Also what if the chipper gets nicked etc? I know very unlikely but it can and does happen. How about focusing on maybe doing hedge trimming? Good money, much less liability, no need for the chipper.... then all you need is to borrow the truck and hedge trimmer. Your boss sounds a top man!
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Congrats Liam. Oh the free and easy life of a student eh!
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The Oregon Fjordlands I've found very good with two long zips at the back to allow good penetration.... ...... of air!! But seriously you don't seem to get too hot in em
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With say oak framed buildings which are all made from freshly sawn/green oak it's the weight of the building that helps keep everything straight as the oak dries. Someone I know took some relatively straight oak beams that were 100 years old give or take out of a building they were refurbing. 2 weeks in summer sun and they'd twisted and bent (not that they were going to re use them mind you....). Same as if you make an oak table out of fresh oak and bolt it all together the oak won't move as much as if you left it lying around in the sun. Where a lot of building wood is from 6" by 6" upwards if you tried to produce it from dried wood you would prob be looking at x10 cost! And there wouldn't be much point as green wood works anyway!
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Dam too far for me
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Welcome to the site. Does your 024 have a spur sprocket type (chain sits on a star that is welded to the sprocket) or a rim and sprocket (the rim is a little bigger than a 50p piece and the chain sits inside it)? If you have a rim and sprocket set up you can get a 1/4" rim and run the smaller 1/4" chain on the dime bars (smaller nose bars). Spur sprockets don't come in the 1/4" so you are more limited to the quarter tip carving bars. Stihl, Oregon and Cannon all make carving bars. I'll be opening a new website soon specialising in bars and chains and I actually have the full range here so call me if you like 07811611457.
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Everyone else has to knuckle down with it in the recession... why not them? If they don't like their pay or massive holidays they should just get another job!
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Thanks for taking the time to answer Alec. It looks a good product and would certainly compliment the Alaskan well.
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I only get 2 of the cubic meter bags on my tipper. But if you just had a flat bed you could have it designed to take 4 cubic meter bags.
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Can do for £775-00 inc vat and delivery. For Stihl Bar with sprocket nose, 2x granberg chains, 2x stihl, oiler and 56" alaskan with bracing kit.
Cheers, Rob
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Lots of people milling wood on here so finding timber should not be a problem
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Welcome to the forum.
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Don't worry it's getting there and I may be getting the Mark II in July.... I think it's a great wendy house. There would be a demand but the trouble is - as always - is finding the buyers
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Thought it was very good Josh. Nice and controlled, not rushing and liked the way you could get back out the way for the pieces to be lifted off (all but one piece anyway). Great work though and also good quality footage.
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Ho ho! That was either well judged or well lucky!
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Ditto above.... at 0.50 that was not too well thought out as it could have got caught up sooner, snapped the hinge then sprung back. But other than that looked ok. I thought the lowering line was pretty good as it pulled the bits away from the wood back towards the chipper.
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Managed to find a vid on youtube on the ripsaw. Would go well with the Alaskan mills etc as you could break a log down into big posts then use this to cut your boards. Do you know if it's CE marked? How long have you had yours and how much have you used it?
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Sounds good but I've got my boots really overflowing with new projects at the moment...
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Thanks for the replies Alec. It's one of those hard things - what is harder to mill? Some softwoods full of sap are quite fibrous and sticky and so perhaps are harder to mill.... What's the smaller bandsaw you have going there?
