Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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I'm using a still fresh bit of timber. Want to drill the holes now. Then let dry a couple of months. I've got some prime bits of wood that will look good! Ref drying wood and when to varnish.... hmmm tricky to answer that as it's a piece of string type question....
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How did this happen? prize for the nearest theory!
Rob D replied to THE88MAN's topic in General chat
I was just going to say exactly that but was waiting for 10 mins to midnight for maximum effect! -
Will post some pics when I use it
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The drill bit to drill a massive hole are these forstner drill bits eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace but you need something with very slow speed and huge torque!
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Looks good and I've just got some brass powder to mix in with some resin! Looks good on your table.
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Talking big and tough on forums like this makes you appear to be anything but. I can see this would be really handy for tip tying branches. Good demonstration of the tool. Easy to use and telescopes away there'll be a good market for it. Stein do seem to be one of the most innovative companies out there and will put their money where their mouth is as far as new products go. . Good luck to them!
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There's plenty of 3/8 .058 chain in both Stihl and Oregon as the mid size Huskys use it. .404 pretty much comes as standard .063 3/8 .050 (not lo pro) is again done by Stihl and Oregon but most saw set ups don't seem to run it....
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Did you ever find a way of doing these holes Mark? I bought a big dewalt forstner drill bit off ebay but none of my drills will come close to turning it! (I got the 96mm one). Bosch do this one GBM 32-4 Professional - Rotary Drill - Bosch Power Tools for Professionals which looks good.... but are there any other alternatives?
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Saw that ont telly.... amazing stuff!
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Nice work.... hope you have someone there to help you to turn it over onto it's legs!
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Like it. As you say downside is having to take the end clamp off to get the Alaskan in...... But like the way you change the height with the 4x2s
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Yep! I am when it comes to timber that hasn't been milled yet. If it was burry would be a different story but it would only be worth £3 a cube to me.
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Sounds tasty but too far for me!
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Very good going after 3 months!
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If it was near me I'd look to be paying something around the £250 mark. But I'm far to far away! Thanks for putting in more details though!
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Get ready for another groundbreaking product from Arbortec Forestwear
Rob D replied to Steve Bullman's topic in General chat
They look and sound great.... The colour will soon become a dark muddy green... -
Come on let's have some details!! Length, diameter at base, diameter at top. Approx location. Access to it. A pic looking directly onto it to see shake. You need to do a better job in describing what you have to get offers in.
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First off I always do all the easy stuff first. The branches which are low and with no pressure on them. Once they're gone you can see more quickly where the tree is resting. You can then try some top gob cuts, then undercut which should allow gentle release of pressure. When you're left with the main butt on 3/4 branches and there's lots of high stuff I'd make sure the tree is stable and climb along it, attach in with harness and fell out the stuff pointing upward/on top of the butt. Then look at winching the main butt (rotate it) so is resting on the ground. Good fun!
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I make loads of things like this... have a look at treet|Hand Crafted Furniture Rob
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Oh and you can also run a 25" bar (Stihl ES) as well. I have all of these in stock. PM me for prices.
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You can get a rim and sprocket set up running a 3/8 rim easily enough. Depending on bar length you want choice wise you can get a stihl ES bar and change the nose from a .404 to a 3/8 (30", 36", 59"), Or do the same with the more expensive Cannon bars (30",36" up to 60") or GB (50"). From a milling point of view I milled for a while with a 36" Cannon running 3/8 but apart from the slightly narrower kerf I found it no faster. I think this is down to the fact there are a few more cutters hitting the wood with 3/8 chain and may be the chip clearance isn't as efficient as .404.... .... but could just as easily have been my sharpening!
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Well it worked.... as said I bet there are a few vids you have stashed away never to go on youtube where it hasn't worked! One thing. You did the notch, side cuts, back cut. So the top is ready to come over. And then presumably you spiked or lowered yourself back down the tree. So what if the top had started going had started going as you were making your way back down the tree?
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No worrys but if you change your mind the offers there
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excellent!
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That's ridiculous!
