Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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Did you ever find a way of doing these holes Mark? I bought a big dewalt forstner drill bit off ebay but none of my drills will come close to turning it! (I got the 96mm one). Bosch do this one GBM 32-4 Professional - Rotary Drill - Bosch Power Tools for Professionals which looks good.... but are there any other alternatives?
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Saw that ont telly.... amazing stuff!
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Nice work.... hope you have someone there to help you to turn it over onto it's legs!
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Like it. As you say downside is having to take the end clamp off to get the Alaskan in...... But like the way you change the height with the 4x2s
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Yep! I am when it comes to timber that hasn't been milled yet. If it was burry would be a different story but it would only be worth £3 a cube to me.
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Sounds tasty but too far for me!
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Very good going after 3 months!
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If it was near me I'd look to be paying something around the £250 mark. But I'm far to far away! Thanks for putting in more details though!
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Get ready for another groundbreaking product from Arbortec Forestwear
Rob D replied to Steve Bullman's topic in General chat
They look and sound great.... The colour will soon become a dark muddy green... -
Come on let's have some details!! Length, diameter at base, diameter at top. Approx location. Access to it. A pic looking directly onto it to see shake. You need to do a better job in describing what you have to get offers in.
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First off I always do all the easy stuff first. The branches which are low and with no pressure on them. Once they're gone you can see more quickly where the tree is resting. You can then try some top gob cuts, then undercut which should allow gentle release of pressure. When you're left with the main butt on 3/4 branches and there's lots of high stuff I'd make sure the tree is stable and climb along it, attach in with harness and fell out the stuff pointing upward/on top of the butt. Then look at winching the main butt (rotate it) so is resting on the ground. Good fun!
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I make loads of things like this... have a look at treet|Hand Crafted Furniture Rob
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Oh and you can also run a 25" bar (Stihl ES) as well. I have all of these in stock. PM me for prices.
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You can get a rim and sprocket set up running a 3/8 rim easily enough. Depending on bar length you want choice wise you can get a stihl ES bar and change the nose from a .404 to a 3/8 (30", 36", 59"), Or do the same with the more expensive Cannon bars (30",36" up to 60") or GB (50"). From a milling point of view I milled for a while with a 36" Cannon running 3/8 but apart from the slightly narrower kerf I found it no faster. I think this is down to the fact there are a few more cutters hitting the wood with 3/8 chain and may be the chip clearance isn't as efficient as .404.... .... but could just as easily have been my sharpening!
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Well it worked.... as said I bet there are a few vids you have stashed away never to go on youtube where it hasn't worked! One thing. You did the notch, side cuts, back cut. So the top is ready to come over. And then presumably you spiked or lowered yourself back down the tree. So what if the top had started going had started going as you were making your way back down the tree?
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No worrys but if you change your mind the offers there
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excellent!
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That's ridiculous!
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Well I think it sounds like you want to have a bit of a rant and why not! Doesn't do any good to hold it in. Firstly on the Granberg chain the scoring cutters are made from mechanically grinding down normal cutters to reduce the width. Now sometimes this means that part of the cutter gets heated and hard. Why not take longer to grind them? Or use a better machine that doesn't harden the tooth? - because the price would be more and then people would complain about that (granberg is the most expensive ripping chain to buy). So these scoring cutters can be very hard on hand files. The 12volt granberg grinders will sharpen them no problem. But if you're really adamant that it's no use send it back to me and I'll replace it with an Oregon or Stihl ripping chain equivalent. Can't really say fairer than that!
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Many thanks for taking the time to do this Andrew. Have also sent a PM, Rob
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Nice!
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Actually.... Just seen this on ebay... PISTON ASSEMBLY COMPATIBLE WITH STIHL 084 088 MS880 | eBay For that money has to be worth a crack. Perhaps ask someone like spudulike how much it would be to fit.
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I mill a lot of things others wouldn't - and on the whole have regretted it!! I'd not mill that as beech gets lots of soft bits in that look bad... firewood I'm afraid!
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Personally I would buy a new one and either sell this one to offset the cost or keep for spares. The 880 is a good saw but I'm not convinced that any of Stihls saws go on for more than a few years. Up to 2 years - usually no problems. After this then you tend to get niggles i.e. not idling, not starting.... Yet there are still plenty of the older style saws all the 024, 088 etc that still go on for years.
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Any chance of some pics? You may be able to tempt someone in!
