Rob D

A happy ending all round! Good stuff - and good initial post as well as it brings things to light and solutions can be found

Hmmmm.... you never really get the true story with this sort of issue... What's the pros and cons between burying lines and having them on pylons? It's sad they felt they had to jail her but I suppose if they caved in on this case everyone who didn't want powerlines across their land would use the case as a precedent.... What do you do?...... who knows

Tricky one to answer that! I suppose it depends on what size timber you're milling.... but I suppose an MS660 is a good modern saw in that it's light enough to use for other work and you can go up to a 36" bar. As said the older saws seem to be better suited for milling work i.e. the ones with an 0 in front rather than after! And they seem to go on and on as well. Up until now I've just used an MS880 but soon I hope to have an 090 and it'll be interesting to see how it compares. One thing is once you go above 90cc everything gets a bit harder i.e. harder to start, heavier to lift, longer bars so more teeth to sharpen. So a 90cc (thereabouts) is a good milling saw to start with as you can use the saw for other work. I tend to find myself avoiding using the MS880 for other work because of it's weight, changing the chain is awkward, and other reasons mentioned above where the 390 with a 28" bar I am happy to pick up all the time.....

Yep superb fell and excellent judgement. Got to have a lot of confidence to do something like that.

Don't think I've ever had a chain snap on me.... had a few come off the bar and caught on chain break, never with any injury. If a chain breaks I'd say it's always down to a worn bar or worn sprocket and not the chain. Not sure about the 'cheap chains' though as never tried any - but why you'd want them as a Stihl or Oregon chain lasts a good bit of time...

Look up the NPTC training website for courses.

What a cracking review! :biggrin: A few pics interspersed to match the comments would top it off even more. I've used one for the last 3 months and concur with all your points. My only criticism is it needs to be a little more robustly put together and/or a more commercial saw horse brought out. And perhaps the gaps a little closer together as mostly my customers after 8" logs.

Really you want to get a good size saw for running a mill. A more powerful saw running a smaller mill will work well. If you buy a small saw, you'll only be tempted to put to large a bar on it!

You could change your question to 'who out there has heard of gype?' I never have - so for that reason I'm out! Their home page reads : Gype was founded by a group of experienced marketing resource visionaries with the aim of tackling the unanswered challenges faced by large brand owners, media and advertising agencies in creating and managing large-scale global cross-media communication strategies. We are dedicated to building information solutions that improve marketing decision-making, enabling you to orchestrate and control your marketing ecosystem in a way that is transparent and efficient. I've never seen such long words all grouped together so nicely and so uselessly!

Very good. Nice and clear and concise. Not sure about the image changing on the home page though.... it's good initially but off putting when you're trying to read the rest of the home page.

Not around at the mo but if you have no joy in a couple of weeks I'll have a good look through what I have....

I don't charge anymore but the demand here is for 8" logs. Although last year there was one gent who wanted large logs. The ones I had were 'a bit polite' !

Also you don't have to bend down/stand up so less strain on operator and back.

Buttock clenching tree and small drop zone! Good work

I'm not even 10 stone and I can wield the 390 with a 28" bar on it! Had one for 9 months. First Husky saw I've ever bought and it's a good un. Air filter is ab superb - no fine dust in the inlet of the carb unlike some others, spark plug easy to get at, drives the 28" bar fine. Hopefully it'll last a good while.

Impressed!

I know that's the trouble if you're a full time tree surgeon you either haven't got the time to work your timber or you're just too knackered!!

Cheers! I put a thread up about this here http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/alaskan-mill/29088-clear-exterior-oil-varnish-lasts.html about this. I've never tried lacquers are they complicated to apply? And are they good for outside? Le tonkinois is what I'm using at the mo. You have to have at least 4 coats though. It'll go shiny but the last coat you can mix with this gelomat and this can finish it matt or satin. I'm going to be selling it soon but in the meantime go here to buy some Le Tonkinois natural oil varnish and Flexidisc sander I'd advise getting 5 litres and a pot of gelomatt. Your elboes will know about it after sanding that bench!

All the pro bars Cannon, Stihl ES and Oregon Powermatch bars do well... Cannon have the higher price tag though I'm still undecided if they are worth the extra money. GB bars (the pro solid ones) are very good as well but virtually impossible to get hold of....

Incredible! How very thoughtful of him and apparently logs go for good money these days.....!

I think it's a magic idea. I wrecked my elboes using a pole saws and this would have been a god send.... don't use things like this anymore but I like the idea. Ok it's quite expensive but if you could do an additional £30 of work in a day using this type of long reach gear due to less fatugie you've paid for it in 2 months easy. A good investment.

Good vid Josh - and particularly liked the way you could send a few down at a time.... very efficient

Yes they've come out fine..... good size planks with that saw.

I'd put it down more to Stihl's (often) strange marketing procedures.

I reckon that's pretty good but there's a lot more scope out there to improve on the idea.... .... but it's making the holes (quickly) I'm after...