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Found 11 results

  1. Just got a new laser in the workshop. Didn't realise it was so big and there isn't room to operate my sauno kiln. Unfortunately it's very heavy and as I don't have any means of moving it, I am having to break it up. In the new year I will be listing my ms880 and two 50 inch bars along with my Alaskan mill rails for a 50 inch set up and a few chains. Another reason for stopping milling is that I am having to do it on my own now as my logging mate had a heart attack a few years ago and rarely has the time to do any milling. I got into Alaskan milling back in 2000 and having done in now for 20 years, at the age of 57, I have to be a bit more careful of things like my back.
  2. Hey, First time slabbing today and I wanted to capture the experience. I absolutely loved the process and look forward to doing more. Feels really rewarding to make use of wood from a tree where the results will be around for years to enjoy. I plan to turn the slabs into tables tops, chunky shelves and chopping boards. Thanks, Dan. 
  3. I was wondering how big a bar I could i can run if I combined my MS661 and MS362 on a Alaskan mill. Normally I have no need for cutting more than my 36" bar can handle but I would like to have the possibility to mill bigger logs if I get some. So I recon that the opportunity to use both sawheads is the best but how big can I go using a 3/8" chain (and what chain would you use?) Jesper
  4. Hi all I am looking for a bit of advice please. I have two decent size Oak tree's that went over in the storms last winter. The owners would like a table out of one of them and a few other pieces and to sell the rest. The access isn't to bad but I think they will have to milled where they have fallen (the edge of the woodland). I would like to do it myself with an Alaskan mill. I was wondering how best to cut it up (boards, planks, beams etc) and how much it would be worth roughly? What size saw, bar and which mill and chain to use? Any advice would be really appreciated. Thanks in advance. The measurements are relatively rough just done with a basic tape measure. Access to tree in the first picture. Oak section 1 Core trunk 409cm length 97cm width 310cm circumference Oak section 2 Right branch looking up tree from root 46cm wide 198cm length 175cm circumference Oak section 3 Left fork 69cm wide 150cm long 257cm circumference Oak section 4 Left branch upper fracture 168cm length 64cm wide 185cm circumference 2nd tree Core trunk 450cm length 81cm wide 224cm circumference Upper branch 185cm length 140cm length 213cm circumference
  5. I'm selling my MS880 and 48" Alaskan mill as well as some chains and a spare bar. All good condition. Have a look on ebay or PM me for details. Cheers (PS I hope this isn't against any rules!)
  6. I'm selling my MS880 and 48" Alaskan mill as well as some chains and a spare bar. All good condition. Have a look on ebay or PM me for details. Cheers (PS I hope this isn't against any rules!)
  7. First use of a the 56" mill today on some windblown Ash. Two lumps, one we got 5 x 3" boards off, the other is still a work in progress as the light went. Not a bad afternoon and I must say it's handy being a farmer. Ed has a wee Deutz Fahr and loader that did a fast job of moving this timber into place! Anyway, here are some pics...the upright boards are from the 1st butt. Unfortunately, the 2nd butt was a double edged sword. See the end? I crosscut it to give a fresh end as these logs have been down for around 18 months - the whole of the heartwood was pulpy and fibrous and extends about a foot wide up 3/4 of the length and through at least 14" of the 34" depth (that's as far as we got today). It's a learning curve. We've given up the 1 1/4" slabs we were making because of the beautiful fungus lesions. No idea how they're gonna turn out when dry but there's a square foot of really nice looking timber there - we're gonna ask the "inventive carpenter" who has a unit on the farm. Will probably shorten the butt or quarter it to find the extent of this pulpy crap. That's about it - a few bloopers as this is the first time I've had my large mill out: Upright the wrong way round at the nose of the bar, causing a taper that we only noticed very late on - 1cm over the 30" width or so. Not ideal, but it depends on the end use. A sloping outdoor bench seat, for example... Turning your saw upside down to sharpen the other side of the bar, mill attached, is BRILLIANT but the saw doesn't seem that keen on starting after. A little throttle blipping later.... More ash to mill soon, this stuff green. A nice crotched piece, again about 32" at the base. Lovin' it! Beats 12 year on the ground Oak hands down.
  8. Purchased an Alaskan with a 20 inch chain a couple of weeks ago through Rob D who was very helpful. Was on my CS30/31 at the time so I have only just got round to using it. I ran it with my 361 which did a pretty good job but it wasn't exactly fast... Started out just doing a small length of Sweet Chestnut for a bit of practise and then went on to a larger piece of Ash. I really enjoyed seeing all the grain patterns inside the wood and was happy with the results. Will add some pictures shortly James
  9. I was just after an opinion on what to do with the ever growing amount of Oak and various other wood lengths we have stored in the barn. We always keep the best looking pieces of wood instead of cutting them up for firewood and would quite like to do something with them. We also have quite a large amount of Sweet Chestnut that could be milled into something more usefull than firewood. Basically our options would be to either: Buy a 660 with a 30inch alaskan as most of our wood isn't much bigger than 28" Hire someone with a mobile sawmill to come and mill them up I'm currently leaning more towards the alaskan because I could then mill wood as I find it rather than having to collect a large amount and then get it milled. Moreover I'm pretty sure milling it myself would be pretty good fun! Thanks,
  10. hello just got into the planking of big trucks that we have taken down and was wondering what is the best way to charge for planked timber and what are the size/width of plank that is most desirable. . .we are using the alaskan mill with an ms880 . . cheers
  11. ive been using the alaskan mill for about 3 or 4 years now and have 3 sets of rails but... the vibration on the wee screws that set your pitch, enlarge the hole that they sit in and this causes the rail screws to unthread whilst your cutting your top board. ive thought of a few different designs, but was wondering if anyone had made their own or had thoughts on how to design better one? (not wanting to strap on old ladders! )


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