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cornish wood burner

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Everything posted by cornish wood burner

  1. Had one for a year and can recommend it. Two speed so if you have something easy to split then the faster ram speed but lower pressure splits it. If it stalls then pull the lever a bit more and force jumps up to 8 ton. With the two wedges it splits which ever end is easiest. Never been beaten so far. Splits oak and birch forks, big chunks of (2 ft) spruce. Limit is what I can lift on to it.
  2. Great on blackthorn. Used one to fell 5 inch trees that you could not get near the trunks. Overhanging branches along the hedges are quick and easy to trim. Very usefull tools.
  3. Hire one with driver. Normally sub £30/ hr. Depends how much you value your time but digger should be 10 times faster and easier.
  4. Dig around them with a 1ft bucket and they will come out easily. Any pro digger driver with a wheeled digger or similar sized tracked machine will have them out in minutes. Few roots left unlike grinding.
  5. If you can get a digger there with a 3 ft bucket it would make the job easy and be more likely to succeed.
  6. If you want stable steps/ladder Hailo are the best but heavy and cumbersome with the bottom hoop.. Lyte are very unstable and flimsy rubbish. Ok for up to 5 step but any higher forget it. Youngman steps are a good compromise, strong and light. Standard ladders Youngman are good. As been said a triple would be easier to carry for the same length but would be heavier length for length. We have all the above and best value IMO are Youngman. There will be other good quality standard ladders but none we have used for any length of time so cannot comment on them.
  7. My wifes trick is to say I will just get my husband, put the phone down for a while then say he won't be long, repeat this for as long as they will stay on the line. Some are very patient but eventually twig. Quite funny to hear them get more woundup as time passes. You have a fault with your computer please turn it on is another. I think she kept the last one for 1/2 hour. Any unsolicited calls especially from India get the same treatment if we have time.
  8. If I get to 70 and can start my saw I will be happy. Using it will be a bonus. As Stubby says well done and good advice about keeping going. I don't make my living with a saw but I really enjoy using one. Taking down some large leylandii at work at present, loads of obstacles so makes it interesting
  9. A long time ago I made a large ornamental front gate for a customer to their measurement and design. Delivered it but it was a few inches too wide. Normally I would have visited, measured and agreed a design etc but she wanted to save the cost of this. Turned out her tape measure had a bit broken off the end and she added the difference rather than subtracted it. Worse thing was she wasn't going to pay for it because it would not fit. "Not my fault it was the tape measure" Luckily her husband said he would hang it on the front of the pillars rather than between. Lucky escape.
  10. Sure just pm when you have a date or need phone number.
  11. Have the same problem. I think mine was clay pigeon shooting in my youth. Used to be pretty fair at it and travelled over most of the south. Gave it up soon after I got married as we had too many other things to spend money on. Started again some time later but could never get to a standard I was happy with. Dog and I are out this afternoon to plant a few trees. She is suffering from old age more than I am but likes to have a run around the field. Have to make the most of it while we can. Beautifull day here BTW.
  12. If you don't get any replies on here, your local Euroforest should be able to help you.
  13. I used to be a fan of the old stuff. They did what they were designed to do. Only problem was if you got stuck in the queue behind them. A plus for me was the welding and mechanical repairs almost paid my mortgage. Shame Freelanders weren't around then I would be a millionare by now.
  14. I would drop it back in their lap. If they took on the job then they should do it properly. Whether heat treated or not I would expect the drawbar to be a highish strength steel of some kind so welding would cause a weak point at best. As a matter of interest was the broken weld normal steel grey or silver stainless colour? High strength welds normally are the latter due to the more exotic metals in them. If I had taken on that job I would have needed to know what you were pulling, the terrain it was to be used on and the drawbar vertical weight. Did they know or ask this?
  15. If you are referring to a drawbar jaw then it will almost certainly be heat treated so very dangerous to weld this
  16. I have always worked on a design strength of 5 tons/ sq inch for normal welding. Exceed this figure at your peril. There are high strength rods which should be used if required but much more expensive.
  17. Work's ms181 and my 211 certainly have adjustment. Both needed a slight tweak after bedding in but start very well. Presumably you are using this technique Pull with choke on until it coughs Choke off then they normally start next pull. Blip throttle to return to normal tick over speed. Both saws have needed nothing apart from chains. Might soon be time for plugs but they are running perfectly. Good little saws imo Presumably the air filter is clean ? Do you clean around the fillers before refilling?
  18. Best wishes Sean. Get well soon
  19. Makes it unnecessarily hard if you have to take them out though.
  20. Se7endevil's 1/3. 2/3 is a good rule of thumb that we would normally use. It might also be prudent to consider the following and modify your choice if necessary. Thickness of what you are nailing into The strength you need to securing whatever you are fixing. Wood you are nailing into. ie hard or soft, good or poor condition. Will you ever need to remove the nails. Nail type Ring or plain. Rough or smooth. When we secure polythene tunnel sheets we consider all the above. It even makes a difference what part of the tunnel you are securing
  21. Neither can JC so thats not a deal breaker
  22. I use 10 deg as a minimum temp for feeding although wheatgerm is allegedly digestable lower than this. I normally start to feed if the fish are looking for food providing the temperature is high enough. Fish are at their weakest at the end of the winter and are therefore more susceptabe to disease, parasites etc. My policy is to feed as soon as possible to boost their strength, small amount at first miss a few days then feed again. Digestive systems and beneficial bacteria growth are slow at low temperatures so do not overfeed. The bacteria feed on the fish waste so the cycle starts and builds with time. However I suspect that given your cooler temperatures, the size of your pond and fish they will not be looking for any supplementary food for quite a while yet.

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