cornish wood burner

It will get too hot and warp timber like you wouldn't believe. We get this in glasshouses as well.

I've heard the same especially with goldfish. Had to extract a frog from a koi's mouth/ throat once. Must have been just too big to swallow. Frog was still alive, took a deep breath and hopped away after a few minutes.

3 phase motors are normally cheaper,smaller and cheaper to run than their single phase equivalents.

What moisture content. Can you give us a rough idea of percentage of dust, 1 to 6, 6 to say 20mm Transport cost may be high but it sounds like we could use it. We are near Plymouth, artic walking floor or bulk tipper loads would be welcome.

Pipe from an exhaust down the hole worked for us years ago. Older and dirtier the engine the better. Might pay to move the chickens while you do it though.

You might need to build/find a platform in advance to give yourself more height. 2.5 tonne doesn't have much reach/height. If that is not possible it probably would pay to have a telehandler from a local farmer lined up if you can find one. Biggest risk to the stems we found was movement when travelling.

Hi Luke It sounds a good idea presumable aimed at the firewood market if I understand correctly. However if my local area and producers are representative then most sell by truck load. I think you might be up against it trying to get these guys included. The ones I know are all well thought of by their customers and therefore do many repeat orders. I see no incentive for them or their customers to get involved. Only complaint I have heard was from someone who bought a dumpy bag load. I think your biggest problem is the huge variety of ways logs are sold by quantity. Transit tipper, hilux, truck with a purpose built body and the variety of big bags including old builders bags. I don't know the answer for you but this might be a big part of your problem. I don't suppose many customers would measure the delivery truck and calculate volume although it might make for an interesting encounter with the seller. Good luck with it though.

Tie them to the dipper arm them carry them with the mini digger or is it too small? Obviously depends how mini it is. We have moved several trees like this but with a wheeled digger or small swinger

Had a spark go through my goggles air vent and weld its self to my eye, could see it but not shift it. Trip to the eye infirmary which was not a pleasant experience. My sympathy Stubby, seems unfair to be caught when asleep. Hope it heals soon. PS don't ever get cellulose thinners or paint in your eye, smarts like you wouldn't believe.

Probably the worse thing appart from falling in the river is the internal stresses caused by impact. Heating might help this but at what temperature and time? Aluminium alloys and heat treatment of, is a very complex subject and the composition would make a big difference. If heating in the 280 to 450 deg C range cooling speed definitely can matter. Aluminium alloys can be treated/aged at 200 deg for several hours then cooled but as far as I know unless it is a very thin section then cooling rate is unimportant from this temperature. However the best thing is if you are concerned about the tension then cool slowly, either way then there will be no problem. Using an oven for heat rather than a blowtorch obviously results in even heating eliminating local overheating and heat stress so is a very good idea but probably best to keep at or below 200 deg to be safe.

In view of the temperatures and times involved it is highly unlikely to be a problem or make any difference. Strength of some aluminium alloys is improved by prolonged heat treatment (several hours) then rapid quenching.

Only seen results of a Sprinter remap. Performance was very impressive. No experience of this but allegedly mpg can improve. However I suspect if you made full use of the performance then you might see a drop in mpg, as I believe was the case with the Sprinter. Figures should be available from the remap co.

Fair bit stronger than 8.8 so I would have thought better. Drive will be the weak link so as you no doubt know always use best quality tools. I normally use copper grease on threads/shafts before assembly. Presumably that is acceptable in this application but best to check. With most things I work on if I suspect problems I apply penetrating oil a few times during the last day or so before disassembly.

Hopefully the course would teach you to think about what you are doing or about to do. Little use for PPE if you use your common sense and work correctly I grew up using saws before chain brakes and developed a healthy respect from day one. Having no get out of jail card ie chain brake and ppe focuses your mind and makes you work safer IMO. I do now use PPE and chain brake saws but try to keep the careful work ethic that I started with. Parhaps the courses should be run with prechain brake saws and the survivors would be reasonably competent by the end.

My lad used to carry two CATs when he did his last tours in Afghanistan. As he said two of his limbs could be damaged or two other soldiers injured. Two should not be needed for tree work but my point is these CATs are highly thought of by the military. He also mentioned that as they are fairly wide they are less damaging than a narrower item. Could be a life saver if the worst happens.

Sorry Stubby you were right, still plastic so presumably short lived. Looks like back go the Stihl holder.

Husky do a set with steel rollers now. A bit strange after a normal file holder but seems to work OK.

Homelite XL2 auto dual handle/ trigger. Around 1968 vintage, pre chainbrake of course. Running up to a few years ago but needs a bit of TLC to the carb when I have some spare time.

This is probably a little off track but a couple of years ago my wife and I had a holiday in Canada and we thought the Canadians were the most courtious people we had ever come across. Still no change to that I see. OP you have a great country, thank you but as said apology not necessary.

One of the lasting memories of my father was him showing me how to fell a tree with an axe. I still have the smaller than average axe I used to this day along with his patchhook. I renewed the handles on both a few years ago, and my son and I still use the patch hook when trimming out our firewood. I think I might take the axe out and repeat the lesson with my son. He appreciates the quality of his grandfathers old patch hook so I think he would enjoy using the axe as well. I must give it the once over on the oil stone first though.

If you have an overgrown hege to cut back then you might consider a cheap multi tool ie chainsaw on a stick. I have a 26 cc unit and it has cut up to 5 or 6 inch blackthorn, ash and oak. I have found it very usefull when it is not possible get near enough with a normal saw (blackthorn) and with an extension bar you have a extra reach. Obviously an ideal world type saw will not suit professionals but all I can say is mine has done a lot of work and I would not be without it. If you can see it being of use then it might be something useful to spend your money on. Stihl do the same but at 4 times the price if you want to spend more.

If an ecologist finds a rare flora or fauna I think the concern is what he or she might do with that information. I am sure all of us would do our best to preserve rare species but as woodwasp suggests restrictions could be imposed and if they went over the top might prevent the primary objectives.

Was it a barc,hetta?

If any of the blackthorn is big enough it makes good firewood, just watch the spikes.